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Old 06-16-2012, 02:56 PM   #1
Deathegg
 
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Low beams & High beams on together?

Hi Everyone! Just noticed something last night. If I Gently push the stalk, to get to the high beams, there is a point where BOTH high and low beams are on at the same time. It's really bright, and I like it! Has anyone seen this?

I would like a way to have them both on at the same time, for those instances where I'm driving somewhere thats REALLY dark (dark mountain road, etc). But I'm assuming that it would take its toll, and burn out the bulb much faster.

Thoughts?
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:12 PM   #2
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You will likely melt the connector and possibly the headlight assembly if you do that for long. It's just a case of a switch that doesn't have a "break before make" mechanism, so you have that small spot where both contacts are powered.
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:01 PM   #3
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Smile

If you have a headlight with a H4 bulb:
low beam - 55 W
high beam - 60 W

If you have the low beam on and you pull the stalk, you have also high beam on. This is only for a short time usage.

If you have the low beam on and you push the stalk, you have low beam off and high beam on. This is for long time usage.

If you count both together you would have 115 W in this headlight, too much for a long time.


You could install retrofit headlights. With one bulb for low beam and one bulb for high beam.
Then you have the low beam on if high beam on (push and pull the stalk).
(Oh, no, you have the 2009-2011 Yaris like I, then not this way.
Or, you could install the 2006-2008 front bumper, then the retrofit headlight would fit.)

Or, you could install additional high beam light on the bumper.
They would switch on additional with your high beam.
(I think about to do this way, because my Yaris can't get retrofit headlights, because no manufacturer produce them for 2009-2011 years. )

Or, you could install a HID lens kit in the original headlights.
Maybe this high beam (maybe also low beam) is brighter than normal H4...
This could only the members tell which installed it.
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:55 PM   #4
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hah, i stumbled across this post and thought it was funny because i noticed this a couple weeks ago when i was flashing my hi beams at my friend who was driving slow infront of me. i thought it was the coolest thing, but now i know not to do it for long :/ oh well
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:16 PM   #5
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Personal rant, (not directed at O.P)

If you can't see at night without highbeams you shouldn't be driving at night.

If you drive with highbeams on with other cars on the road, you need to stop. High beams are not for all the time driving, and shouldn't be used as such.

The lazy people who think its ok to use highbeams once the regular lights burn out instead of spending 4 or 5 bucks to change them are completely inconsiderate and shouldn't be allowed to drive until they learn respect and how to change the bulbs.

Keep your lights clean and you shouldn't have issues.


/personal rant
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:04 AM   #6
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h4 bulbs together confused me too so I took a pic

Hid kit bulb has two separate bulbs as you can see, where as halogen h4 has two filaments and one bulb.

I have a 2012 yaris le and was replacing my light bulbs thought id snap a pic.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:55 PM   #7
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Fired my high beams

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
You will likely melt the connector and possibly the headlight assembly if you do that for long. It's just a case of a switch that doesn't have a "break before make" mechanism, so you have that small spot where both contacts are powered.
I had my highs on for a long while and I smelt burning rubber and now my high beams and high beam indicator on the dash doesn't light up.
I think I fried something?
Is it an easy fix or should I just add some
bright driving lights?
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiceyhotwings View Post
I had my highs on for a long while and I smelt burning rubber and now my high beams and high beam indicator on the dash doesn't light up.
I think I fried something?
Is it an easy fix or should I just add some
bright driving lights?
The indicator is fed directly off the bulb circuit, so it makes sense that both do not work. The most likely point of fryulation is the bulb connector. start with checking that.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The indicator is fed directly off the bulb circuit, so it makes sense that both do not work. The most likely point of fryulation is the bulb connector. start with checking that.
So, they do look fried..the left side connector is more brown than the right side connector.
How do I replace one or both connectors?
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
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fryulation
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiceyhotwings View Post
So, they do look fried..the left side connector is more brown than the right side connector.
How do I replace one or both connectors?
You can buy them from most auto parts stores. Some even stock ceramic ones, which are more heat tolerant. Typically they come with about 6" of wire, so you cut and splice them into the existing harness.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:20 PM   #12
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I agree with Schroomster (post #5), but I still can't help but chuckle just a bit pondering the thought of 'dark mountain roads' (the OP in PA) in Florida, where the highest point would be considered 'a hill' in many states .
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:15 AM   #13
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Back before faired-in replacable-bulb headlights, I got curious with my 1973 Pinto wagon. I had the then-new halogen sealed-beams in it; and I was teaching myself mechanics and dinkering around with it. Some things worked - like removing the fan. The few times I needed engine cooling, as in stopped in traffic, I could effect by cranking up the heater. Rest of the time free-air worked fine and I felt the added power. Much quieter, too.

The headlight idea came to me; and I did it by bridging the dimmer switch lines. On the floor - anyone remember those? Put a splice across it, and high-beams were on all the time.

It didn't help. I got a lot of glare back with high-and-low together that I did NOT get with high-beams alone. In other words, low beams angled the light down to where it bounced off the pavement right in front and threw glare back. Good for city traffic; unneeded and unnecessary on the highway (highway speeds in those days were 55 mph)

The cautions about melting all that plastic are probably well-founded; but I'd add you're not missing much. You'd be better off getting driving lights added up front.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:24 PM   #14
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Hi Scott,
I replaced the connectors but the high beams and dash still don't light up.
Now what should I do next, could something be fried in the stalk arm?
I checked all the fuses and they look fine...which fuse runs the high beams?
The dash lights were working when I fried the high beams, but eventually the the dash went black.
In the daylight position the dash lights up but as soon as I turn on my driving lights it goes off.
If I can't get this fixed I'm seriously thinking of adding some bright off road lights to my car for extra lighting.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiceyhotwings View Post
Hi Scott,
I replaced the connectors but the high beams and dash still don't light up.
Now what should I do next, could something be fried in the stalk arm.
Which fuse runs the high beams.
If I can't get this fixed I'm seriously thinking of adding some bright off road lights to my car for extra lighting.
The same fuse does both high and low beam for each side. Make sure the high beam filament is not burned out on both bulbs. Also, have someone else click the stalk between high and low beam and listen to the little relay box behind the headlight on the passenger side for the relay to click as the lights are switched back and forth.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:00 PM   #16
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Would the high beam system stop working if even just 1 filament is burned out?
Do you know which fuse runs the H/L headlights?
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiceyhotwings View Post
Would the high beam system stop working if even just 1 filament is burned out?
Do you know which fuse runs the H/L headlights?
Both side high beam filaments would have to be burned out for both side high beams to be not working.

The H-LP RH and H-LP LH fuses feed the right and left sides respectively.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shroomster View Post
Personal rant, (not directed at O.P)

If you can't see at night without highbeams you shouldn't be driving at night.

If you drive with highbeams on with other cars on the road, you need to stop. High beams are not for all the time driving, and shouldn't be used as such.

The lazy people who think its ok to use highbeams once the regular lights burn out instead of spending 4 or 5 bucks to change them are completely inconsiderate and shouldn't be allowed to drive until they learn respect and how to change the bulbs.

Keep your lights clean and you shouldn't have issues.


/personal rant

The lights are on..but you're not home.

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