Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > DIY / Maintenance / Service
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-15-2017, 02:29 PM   #1
fourbangingfun
 
fourbangingfun's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 105
Current State of Rust: 10 years above the salt belt

The other day I posted pictures of my rotted control arm bolts (posted in the control arm bolt megathread).

So, today I took a few pictures of rusty spots within the engine bay. I wanted to share with you guys to see if this is normal, or worse than normal, and what types of preventative measures should be taken.

Are these findings normal? What about you guys in Canada? My plan is to drive this vehicle until it fails. Where should I be looking for rust under the vehicle? Control arms/frame/suspension parts??

FYI the vehicle is a 2007 Yaris Sedan, with 183k miles on it. Spent its whole life in Massachusetts, driven year round.

Here is a general shot of the engine bay.
enginebay.JPG

Here are two shots of the passenger side shock tower. I noted rust beginning there about a year or two ago, so I sprayed the area with some PB blaster and coated it with oil, in an attempt to stop the spread of rust/rot.
passengertower.JPG
passengertowercloseup.JPG

Here is the driver's side shock tower. Not treated at all. When I saw the passenger side beginning with rust a few years ago, this side had no issues.
drivertower.JPG
drivertowercloseup.JPG

Here is a shot of the battery and its brackets.
battery.JPG

And lastly I took some pictures of the clutch bleeder valve/starter area in front of the engine bay. My starter was replaced a couple of months back (as you can see it stands out, completely free of rust). The bleeder valve is significantly rusted. I used it to bleed the clutch last summer, but I'm afraid if i were to try that now, I might snap it off.
starter:clutch.JPG
clutchbleedcloseup.JPG
fourbangingfun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2017, 03:11 PM   #2
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
Keep the rusted area covered with some sort of fluid film anti rust spray. Spray it at least 2x per year or more.

The slave cylinder bleed nipple with likely snap off, New slave cylinders are cheap so not a big deal. You still have a ton of time until the rust becomes a safety issue, just keep a layer of film in it.

Fwiw, if you plan to keep your car until it rots out then spending $100 per year every spring on an anti rust spray is well worth it.

I started this when I bought my yaris used 4 years ago and constantly spray every undercarriage bolt with a film anytime I'm under there as well as put anti seize on any bolt I've ever removed. My car is a dream to work on since everything is in such great shape. It's driven year round and we have an insane amount of salt out on our roads up here.
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2017, 06:58 PM   #3
fourbangingfun
 
fourbangingfun's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Keep the rusted area covered with some sort of fluid film anti rust spray. Spray it at least 2x per year or more.

The slave cylinder bleed nipple with likely snap off, New slave cylinders are cheap so not a big deal. You still have a ton of time until the rust becomes a safety issue, just keep a layer of film in it.

Fwiw, if you plan to keep your car until it rots out then spending $100 per year every spring on an anti rust spray is well worth it.

I started this when I bought my yaris used 4 years ago and constantly spray every undercarriage bolt with a film anytime I'm under there as well as put anti seize on any bolt I've ever removed. My car is a dream to work on since everything is in such great shape. It's driven year round and we have an insane amount of salt out on our roads up here.
Thanks for your response. What exactly do you use for your anti-rust spray? I use PB blaster as my fix-all/rust buster/anti-sieze/lubricant, but it is quite runny and I doubt it would stick around long enough to help me at all.
fourbangingfun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2017, 07:43 PM   #4
91mustang
 
Drives: Charcoal 2012 Yaris SE 5 Speed
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Smithfield, VA
Posts: 145
Hey man,

Use POR15, it is a great rust product, I've only heard good things about it and I bought it myself for another vehicle project of mine.
91mustang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2017, 08:39 AM   #5
Sirius-XM
Toyota (TM) Shareholder
 
Sirius-XM's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 Jade Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 52
I can't speak to Por15 usefulness for the Yaris but I used to use it for a metal water tank and it stopped the rusting dead. Previously I had to sand and repaint the the inside of the tank every few months.

Unfortunately there is also the rust you can't see, my Volkswagen Beetle rusted from inside the heater channels outward. The tunnels also tended to rot away on the Beetle.

Last edited by Sirius-XM; 01-17-2017 at 08:28 AM.
Sirius-XM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2017, 10:13 AM   #6
dogsridewith
 
Drives: 2007 2-door hatchback
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: USAnotCA
Posts: 750
Rust in Salt calcium chloride Toyota

Circa 1990 Corolla, Tercel and FX-16 rusted mostly at the rear of the undercarriage/body...due mainly to spray thrown off the front tires and water getting into interior various places and not adequately draining/drying. Exception being front fenders--rolled edge above tire and lower region in front of door where wet grit and leaves and dirt drain down from the cowl and pile up.
Would be interesting see how the rear of this 2007 thread Yaris is doing.
dogsridewith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2017, 08:33 PM   #7
IllusionX
It's the illusion you see
 
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
Under the car is pretty horrible on my Yaris. I've also had an under coating done 10years ago. Many spot have since worn off, and all the joints where 2 pieces of metal are welded together have rusted.

Otherwise, engine bay, shock towers and all pa else are free of rust. I believe the front fenders started some time ago, but I've never seen any more rust around the wheel arch. I've apart DIY rust proof products every once in a while in the past 6 years.

Also parking indoor didn't help when I got my house back in 2010. Will take couple pictures soon.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
__________________
IllusionX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2019, 10:41 PM   #8
fourbangingfun
 
fourbangingfun's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 105
Hey guys. Checking back in two years later. My driver’s side rocker panel has rusted out pretty badly. It was bubbling the paint so grinded it down and the hole was WAY worse than I thought it was gonna be. Not sure what I should do next. For now I just quickly sprayed with some cheap rattle can to cover up the bare metal. UGH! 230k on the car and the drivetrain runs GREAT. Damnit.
fourbangingfun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2019, 10:53 PM   #9
fourbangingfun
 
fourbangingfun's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 105
Here's a picture of the area after some light grinding.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg image1(1).jpeg (98.4 KB, 166 views)
fourbangingfun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2019, 07:13 AM   #10
ex-x-fire
 
Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 504
You needed to pop out the plugs and spray into the rockers.
ex-x-fire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2019, 05:22 PM   #11
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by ex-x-fire View Post
You needed to pop out the plugs and spray into the rockers.
+++1

Rocker panels, doors, hood, liftgate, wheelhouses and dogleg areas (very important), unibody rails to add to your list. I drill in the rear door jamb, so I can spray thin fluid into the wheelhouse area. Also, get a set of floor liners if you don't have them already. Minimal amounts of water seep through the carpet, sits there like a wet sponge, and rust from inside out where unibody panels are glued together.

There are two oblong rubber plugs underneath just forward of the rear wheel well. I remove those plugs and pump about a L of ATF into there a couple times a year. So far my '06 and '08 have no perforation and almost no surface rust. I have taken the philosophy that rust occurs where water settles and stays - normally the lowest location that holds water. These are the areas that I concentrate on when rust-proofing. At least the Yaris isn't packed full of expanding foam like my Dodge Grand Caravan was. It trapped and held water. I had to remove it manually with steel rods and high pressure water. Then I could adequately rust-proof it. Fortunately, I got to it in time.
__________________


2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 03-21-2019 at 05:34 PM.
06YarisRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 11:15 PM   #12
thebarber
daily driver
 
thebarber's Avatar
 
Drives: the #wrecho
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 5,877
You’ve got to oil spray your car. It was a big thing in southern Ontario. I have almost 400,000 km on the #wrecho and I don’t have any rust like that!
__________________
thebarber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2019, 08:28 AM   #13
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebarber View Post
You’ve got to oil spray your car.
FACT!

Especially after you do the repairs. I have seen too many expensive body jobs go to s**t in a year because the areas were not treated afterwards. You CANNOT over rustproof a car, only under rustproof them. Somebody came up with the idea of using sections of plastic eavestroughing - cut to the length of the rocker panels to catch drips. I adopted this method and literally pour ATF or oil into the rockers/dogleg area etc and let it run out and collect it in a shallow bucket of some sort. Reserve the oil that comes out for your next rustproofing endeavour. You just raise the closed end of the eavestrough and the open end channels the oil into your bucket. Remove your plastic sill plates and holes into the rocker will magically appear. Park the car on a slight incline, using a small funnel, dump in ATF/Oil and let it run down hill and out from the rocker seams into bucket. Do both sides of the car. Then turn the car around on the incline and repeat. This will saturate all rust prone areas from the very front to the very back of the rocker. Proof is provided by ATF/oil dripping all along the length of the rockers. Inside the rockers, oil wicks upward over time, coating covering the insides of the rockers. The process is clean, spills no oil - if you're careful. Repeat a couple times during the year. I'm not joking when I say that I can perform this operation in less than 1/2 hour and the majority of that time is spent waiting until the bulk of the oil drips out. I tend to go overboard. Once a year would probably be just fine.

This is a topic that I am passionate about (and therefore tend to go a little overboard when discussing in forums) for a few reasons:

1) cars are junked way before their useful life has ended - due to rust.

2) Rust is cosmetically unsightly and structurally destructive, but almost entirely preventable. It is so simple and so inexpensive to do.

3) I'm no tree hugger, but it's environmentally friendly if done carefully. Sure, there will be a few drips that hit the asphalt, but in comparison to scraping a car before its time or the impact of re-refining recycled oil, it's a no-brainer in my estimation.

4) Provides an opportunity to explore/understand the inner construction of you car.

5) Provides that warm feeling that your car is protected against the assault of corrosive materials as you drive.
__________________


2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 03-23-2019 at 09:15 AM.
06YarisRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Blitz Supercharger Belt Slip @ Higher RPM? Freestylin Forced Induction Forum 20 09-06-2017 07:32 AM
Rust Inhibition - What do you all do? tmontague DIY / Maintenance / Service 9 03-05-2016 01:02 AM
yaris timing belt phenoyz General Yaris / Vitz Discussion 16 02-24-2015 01:05 AM
DIY how to change you belt in 10 minutes without breaking VVTI solenoid YarisSedan DIY / Maintenance / Service 2 04-12-2013 10:41 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:30 PM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.