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10-06-2015, 11:35 AM | #1 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris Sedan 2007 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 30
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Suspension makeover
Hi all,
I will do a complete suspension makeup to my '07 sedan to improve its driving quality. I have several problems right now (although I have decent (10k) tires & two alignments, Tires are Firestone 195/60r15). - Lane wandering at speeds > 55mph & occasional (..?) loose steering also wind affects the car like crazy. - Sounds from the front suspension over bumps, puddles. - Pretty annoying body roll. I have purchased: KYB GR-2 Megan racing 1.5" lowering springs TRD rear sway bar DC sports front strut bar New inner, outer rod ends (raybestos) New lower ball joints from Moog Prices very decent, overall ~$700, thinking installing everything as a DIY. Anyway, long post, here is a question I have. Do I need to cut the bumpstops? Has anyone tried any shorter aftermarket ones? Thanks! |
10-06-2015, 12:03 PM | #2 | ||
Pumpman
Drives: 2019 Kia Soul EV Base Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 434
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Quote:
Quote:
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"I would rather loose by a mile in a car I built myself, then win by an inch in a car that was built for me." - Moog |
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10-06-2015, 12:07 PM | #3 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris Sedan 2007 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 30
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Thanks for your answer.
Getting a new pair sounds reasonable. Cutting them in half is approx. 1"? The question then becomes, do you need to align again if you experiment with both? You need some time to drive around (maybe 3 weeks?) with each pair... |
10-06-2015, 12:32 PM | #4 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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Knocking around from bumps is likely top plate or front swaybar links.
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk |
10-06-2015, 12:54 PM | #5 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris Sedan 2007 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 30
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Talking about front sway bar, even with it on car feels pretty bad.
I am also worried about front sway bar link. Its very loose. I can easily move it with my hands. Has anybody replaced it? Any noises? Problems? Forgot to mention milage: 70kmiles. Bought it used @60kmiles. Suspension is stock. And its horrible... |
10-06-2015, 09:43 PM | #6 | |
Drives: Olive yaris,FRS, Dakota R/T Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pa
Posts: 147
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Quote:
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10-08-2015, 12:35 PM | #7 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris Sedan 2007 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 30
|
Great. I will also go with Moog sway links, I noticed yesterday I can move them easily with my hands.
Unfortunately I got stuck trying to replace the inner+outer tie rods. I cannot separate them (nut and outer rod) no matter how much WD40 or PB blaster I use, no matter how much force I apply. Maybe I will use a torch. Has anybody tried to remove inners without special inner tie rod installer? If yes, how bad was it stuck? |
10-08-2015, 09:24 PM | #8 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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http://yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54581Check out my post a short while back regarding removing the outer tie rod from the knuckle on an '02 Echo (same set up as Yaris)
As for the inner which I also replaced -ended up being a worn out control arm bushing but it was worth learning how to do the iners anyway - they were very simple to do with a rented inner tie rod puller from Parts Source. I used a video on YouTube by ChrisFix who had excellent DIY videos and he has on inner tie rod removal. His Mazda truck is identical to the ones on the Yaris. I removed the outer tie rods and then turned the steering wheel all the way to the opposite side I was working on. I removed the rubber boot/bellow and then removed the inner TR using the tool. Installed the new one and made sure I put anti seize on the threads. I then used a ziptie to secure the boot back onto the inner tie rod. Then attach the outer tie rod back on (turn it as many times as you turned it to get it off so that your alignment iis good enough to get you to an alignment shop). Repeat with the other side. It's a fairly straight forward job and enjoyable to learn to do. Just use that video online an you'll have have great understanding of everything.
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
10-11-2015, 02:50 PM | #9 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris Sedan 2007 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 30
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Thanks for all the advice and the video tmontague.
Will try to replace them tomorrow. Thumbs up for the enjoyable part! Everybody here says I'm crazy to do such replacement by myself. Its a nice hobby though. Let me share something funny. I called two mechanics to get a quote for inner tie rod replacement. First guy said "I am not interested to install your own parts". I guess he does not want to loose overcharging for crappy parts. I told him I got OE Raybestos tie rods, he still said no. The second guy told me he will need 2.5 - 3hours of $98 bucks per hour to do it. He will also charge 20% premium over that to install my parts! Holy ****... Yesterday I installed strut bar & KYBs with megan racing springs. I ended cut 1" from the original bumpstops. Boot, strut mount assembly were all in great shape, so I re-used them. Used a spring compressor to remove the old ones, but not to compress the new ones, I manage to push from above. Torqued everything back to spec. I cant describe you how pleased I am. The body roll is reduced a lot (I would say ~75%), the steering is much more precise and stiff on the highway, but the comfort is approximately the same levels as with the old suspension. The only annoying part was the 6mm allen bolts. The sway bar link bolts were rusted so the allen key literally destroyed the allen socket (and my hands). In the end I had to kill the old links in order to remove them. They had free play, but you could tell they could last longer. Anyway I planned to replace them anyway, I just had to pay $50 bucks (per piece) to get them ASAP from Autozone. I got Moogs, online they sell for $38 or so. They are twice as thick as the old ones, and they have a nut instead of the original allen socket just after the "boot" which is now gone (they are Moog problem solvers) which makes it so damn easy to tight. http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/sus...sway-bar-links The reduction in height is currently 1", I guess in a couple of weeks will lower a little bit more - maybe 1/4". Yaris looks actually pretty. |
10-11-2015, 04:15 PM | #10 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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That's pretty surprising about the mechanics price quote/refusal to do the job.
I'm assuming the labor is due to the fact that 90% of the job require removing seized end links which complicates things. To be honest it was one of the most straight forward DIY's I have done and that was done on a car with 360,000km on it always driven in the salt belt. Once you get the outer tie rods figured out the inners are easy since they are always protected from the elements by the boot/bellow. Keep posted how the job goes, you should have no issues. I'd recommend renting th inner TR remover as I don't think the Yaris' are accessible without it. Some vehicles you can fit a wrench in there, I don't think you can in this case
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
10-15-2015, 11:13 AM | #11 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris Sedan 2007 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 30
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So last updates.
Replaced the inner/outer tie rods without any issue as tmontague mentioned. Did an alignment. The guy initially refused to align the car cause it was "lowered". In the end I imagine he went for OEM settings and the car drives straight. Highway handling is much better although I still cannot get rid of the suddenly light steering wheel (at high speeds). Unfortunately after all these changes, (inner/outer/sway bar links and strut bar, lowered center of gravity, new struts and alignment), I cannot get rid of it... Maybe tires? (firestone affinity 195 60 r15) After a few hundred miles enjoying the stiffer car I have to mention the bouncy ride, especially on the highway. Not that it was unexpected, just thought it would not be that annoying. The weaker KYB GR2 is obviously not able to keep up with the strings' high rate action. I expect the struts to die at 10-15K miles - if I am not going to kill them :) It was a mistake to put the GR2s on. Should have invested on something stronger. |
10-15-2015, 11:57 AM | #12 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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Im running on 195/55R15 and my steering follows the groove on the road alot.
Stock shocks with MI springs. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk |
10-15-2015, 12:08 PM | #13 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris Sedan 2007 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 30
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Any sudden "loose" feeling? Like wheels have suddenly different directionality?
Most of the times the steering is solid and trustworthy. |
10-15-2015, 12:50 PM | #14 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Good to hear it went smoothly. Did you end up renting the inner TR tool to get the job done? I'm surprised the guy originally refused to align the car, the Yaris is simply toe in/out and a shop like that will only look at front wheels.
In regards to the struts. I'm in the same position as you, I'm currently using oem struts (only 8,000km on them) with lowering springs but I'm looking for a good stiffer/sport after market option. I was going to go with Tokiko Blues but they are no longer made for the Yaris. TRD's are an option but they run $400 USD off of SparkTRD.com Let me know what you end up going with, I'm sure some other forum members will have some input on what is currently available I also have the same driving sensation as Illusion posted about above. I don't have any sudden loose feeling but my car will track all over the place especially on newly paves roads or cement with grooves in it. Keeps me awake/aware on the highway.
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
10-15-2015, 01:06 PM | #15 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris Sedan 2007 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 30
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I did rent the tool, which BTW is great, since all these special purpose tools are free. There is not enough space to grab the screw so in the end its easy after you separate the inner/outers.
Regarding struts, I already regret not paying $250 + shipping more to get the TRDs. But you learn as you grow. KYBs GR2s for now, till they split apart... :) |
10-15-2015, 02:03 PM | #16 | |
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With my personal experience, tires have been the biggest factor in the play on highways. My "sport" tires pretty much eliminated the tire wandering feeling. Maybe cuz they were wider? Not sure. For a while, I was running the Micro Image springs (i miss them so much) with Tokico Blues in front. The blues helped some, as I thought the fronts were blown. Turns out they were not, just softer! |
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