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Old 10-03-2010, 03:07 PM   #1
changchewsoon
 
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JUN Releases Camshafts for the 1NZ-FE

Dropped by my tuner's place 2 weeks ago and they showed me the newly arrived camshafts from JUN.

They've been working with JUN for the past couple months to develop these cams, there are 3 types available:

Best of all, VVT-i functionality is retained.

1. 256 duration, 9.0mm lift (street spec)
2. 272 duration, 9.5mm lift (NA)
3. 272 duration, 10.5mm lift (turbo)

According to them, JUN won't be releasing these cams to US shores so soon yet.

I recently help sent a pair of 256s to my friend in Singapore last week. Hopefully he has got them installed and can send me a dyno chart to share.

I'm getting a set of 272 turbo for myself. Let me know if you're interested, I could ask my tuner to ship a set to you.
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:14 PM   #2
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EST pricing?

For the 272's.
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:32 PM   #3
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well over $1600 for a pair of cams.

I expressed interest in distributing them here, but I'll never be able to sell them at that price. I'm sure they are good quality, but I even passed for my own car.
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:36 PM   #4
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Garm so rods and pistons is really like the meat and potatoes if u want to increas the engines capabilities?
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:20 PM   #5
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Are these custom made cams from Cam blanks or are these just regrinds? I know some cams aren't able to give any power unless they differ greatly from original spec so they need to grind from a new blank instead.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:28 PM   #6
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^ for $1600 I hope they aren't regrinds.
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Old 10-03-2010, 08:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleey0 View Post
Garm so rods and pistons is really like the meat and potatoes if u want to increas the engines capabilities?
if you think about it like this... you'll understand:

the pistons and crank are the legs and arms....the workers and get stuff done. the intake and exhaust is the mouth and butt...taking in and letting it all out. and then the brains behind all the operation...how much air is taken in, how much air is let out...is the cam.

Valve Lift- Well this is the easy one, The distance that the lobe of the cam lifts the tappet multiplied by the rocker arm ratio determines the valve lift. Everyone knows this one!

Duration- The time in which the valve is off the seat during tappet lift, measured in CRANKSHAFT degrees. As there has to be some point in which you begin to measure the lift of a cam there are usually two figures given on a spec card. The Advertised Duration and the Duration at some arbitrarily chosen point (Usually .050" lift) Some manufacturers use a different amount of lift and this can cause confusion Most Cam manufacturers use the .050" figure, but it is wise to be sure when comparing different grinds. When checking a cam you should always check it at the tappet rather than the valve because of minor variations due to lash, and rocker arm ratio.

Centerline- The Centerline of a Cam is the actual position or phasing of the cam in relation to the Crankshaft. To wit: The position of the center line of the #1 INTAKE Lobe of the cam in relation to the position of the #1 Piston measured in Crankshaft degrees of rotation AFTER TDC. This is the figure that is used when we talk about 'Degreeing " a cam.

Lobe Separation - This is the PHYSICAL configuration of the cam in relation to the actual spacing of the intake and exhaust lobes from each other. Lobe separation is ground into the camshaft. You CANNOT change it (Unless you reground the cam). You CAN change the Centerline by degreeing. These two terms are often confused with each other.

Base Circle - This is the lowest part of the cam lobe also referred to sometimes as the "Heel" of the cam. This is the fully closed position of the valve. This is also where you should make your valve adjustments. If you adjust your valve lash at any other point on the cam, you will have problems. We will discuss the proper way to adjust your valves later on.

Some stroker motors require the use of a "Reduced Base Circle cam" in order to clear the rods. These cams are ground with a smaller base diameter and require some specialized components such as longer pushrods.

Symmetrical - A cam that is Symmetrical has both sides of the cam lobe exactly the same. In other words, the intake ramp of the cam lobe that accelerates the lifter to actuate the valve has the same shape as the portion of the ramp on the downside of the lobe that lowers the lifter. These designs are very easy on the valvetrain as it is a smooth transition from open to closed.

Asymmetrical - An Asymmetrical cam has opening and closing ramps that are unlike and unequal. This profiles usually found on high performance cams and offers a high velocity opening and a lower velocity closing ramp in order to snap the valve open quickly and then set it back down more gently.

Dual Pattern - Again, a grind that is usually found in a high performance cam. The Intake lobe configuration is different from the exhaust lobe. Usually the exhaust lobe is ground with slightly more duration that the intake lobe. Small block Chevy engines really like more duration on the exhaust in most cases. A single pattern cam (Both lobes giving the same amount of duration) work well in street engines.

Cam Walk - A phenomenon that occurs with Roller cams due to slight inaccuracies in the lifter bore spacing. Most Roller cams use a cam button to control the tendency of the cam to unscrew itself from the block. Bushing the lifter bores can control this problem but is very expensive. A cam button will work quite well in 90% of cases.
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Old 10-03-2010, 08:17 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
^ for $1600 I hope they aren't regrinds.
for 1600 i hope they come with more than the cams. like maybe a hot chick willin to do anything you want whenever you want...

or, like injectors, fuel management, programming assistance, installation, and tuning...
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Old 10-03-2010, 08:31 PM   #9
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Just to add to your description, there is also Cam on Bucket as inside the 1NZ-FE. The Cam pushes directly on the top of the valve so there is no rocker ratio to put into the lift and duration.
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:43 PM   #10
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For custom cams and not just regrinds, $1200 seems pretty legit, $1600 if you have a reputable name to your company :P
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:16 PM   #11
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This kit would need to come with more than just the cams. It would also need buckets and springs. If you never pulled the head and cams apart on this stock set-up then your in for a rude awakening. The tollerance's are very tight. You will not be able to just use a set of after market cams with your stock buckets and springs. I called Jun about 2 weeks ago to verify the cams and they are doing a set but it dosen't sound like they've gotten to the buckets or springs.

Buyer be ware.

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Old 10-04-2010, 09:15 PM   #12
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well there is some pretty smart people in here lol,... noob suggestion what about the FERREA valve garms got for sale? or would it have to be JUN cams specific springs and buckets or seats or what ever is in there... it would seem like valves and cams would make this motor a lot more fun. 'course <----noob
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Old 10-05-2010, 08:30 AM   #13
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JUN cams + Ferrea Valve kit= not worth the money spent.

It's almost cheaper to just pick up a used SC kit or get a custom turbo kit
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:48 AM   #14
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With any type of new performance cam set for this motor you will need custom buckets and springs.

None of the OEM buckets will work with the after-market set up.

The only other solution is to do new valve lengths and do backwards math on the buckets.

After many hours with Joey V. From Vance & Hines and Webb cams along with Bill Gude the best solution for cams at this point is from Gude Performance.

He can make you just a set of cams w/new springs and buckets or do a whole race head like mine with a O-ringed head, copper gasket, race cam set w/new valves, springs, lockers, retainers and buckets.

Like I've said there is no easy solution for this head. The stock buckets and springs do not allow for much play.

Unless your doing a race set-up it's not worth your time and money to yield 15-30hp depending on cam type.

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Old 10-09-2010, 02:00 PM   #15
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hi guys, just got back from a long business trip.....the list price that JUN is positioning for these camshafts are 135,000 yen so hopefully they can lower it in the future to make them more affordable....

my tuner told me that they're continuing the development with JUN for the valve springs and retainers.....a set just came in couple days ago...i'll try to snap some pictures of it before they put it in my car....

and yeah, the JUN cams are definitely not regrinded....they are made from blank cams...
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454 whp, 1.7 bar boost, pump gas, water/meth.
501 whp, 2.2 bar boost, pump gas + avgas, no water/meth.
www.viosturbo.com - World's first 500 WHP 1NZ-FE
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:12 PM   #16
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Good stuff but a LOT of cash to throw down!

GL!
!
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Old 10-09-2010, 03:20 PM   #17
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Not worth 1,635.00 USD. for about a 30 hp gain. And that is if you come up with the rest of the stuff to make it work. You already know you will need new buckets and springs. Lockers and retainer are irrelevant. Right now you have a set of useless cams without custom buckets and springs.

Gude Performance has this system already in play and it comes with custom buckets and springs which are made by Eibach. The number one spring company around.

JUN will never be able to move those cams for that price even with buckets and springs.

XBG
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Old 10-09-2010, 05:32 PM   #18
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Well even Scionlife people are working with WEBB Cams over GUDE anyways, they are bad mouthing GUDE something fierce. I don't know why yet, but both people who have gotten their work done by him have just dissapeared from the forum, hopefully from having too much fun. You, xbgod might be the only person to report something to us about Gude, positive or not.
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