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Old 12-31-2008, 06:38 PM   #37
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Hmmmm..... i could've sworn that knowledge was experience....lol
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Old 01-01-2009, 08:10 AM   #38
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Well thanks Mike for the FAQ, very educational but it does not really tell us *why* Nitrous is advantageous compared to other power-creating solutions. So, off the top of my head, and someone please correct me if I am wrong about some assumptions:

1) On-demand aspect: unlike a turbo or supercharger which are pretty much always on (with exceptions), when you want a burst of acceleration, it's just a button away.

2) Relatively easy install: No need to faff about with downpipes and tubing and belts and so on, nitrous piping is relatively speaking much easier to set up

3) Low cost of entry: You can get a Nitrous kit from several respectable companies for a lot cheaper than any turbo or supercharger kit. Of course, in the long run, refilling that bottle will add up, so if you plan to use it every single day, better save up for a turbo!

4) You can relive your Fast & Furious/Gone in 60 Seconds fantasies... Go Baby Go! In other words, this is the psychological aspect of point 1) above, there's just something cool about pressing a button and feeling the surge of speed, which I suppose would also tie in to exposure to racing video games...

5) You can get high off N2O Well, the medical grade stuff anyway...

OK I'm just getting silly now.

On the other hand there are of course disadvantages... Go crazy with the dosage and duration and you'll really shorten the life of your engine. But, the same can be said of turbos and superchargers, really... Ya gotta draw the line somewhere and stick to it, or invest heavily into strengthening the engine.

And lastly, the hot topic, why bother doing this at all on a daily driven 100hp econobox? All I can say is, why not? We can't all afford "proper" sports cars, a lot of us appreciate the "wolf in sheep's clothing" aspect of a fast Yaris, and as long as the owner understands the downsides of the planned modification, and has no problem with the prospect of shortening the engine's lifespan, go for it!
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:28 PM   #39
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Thanks Thomas. I can see all but two of those addressed but not directly above. The getting high thing I forgot about, lol. I'll add yours to the list for reference. Can we make this a sticky?
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Old 08-03-2009, 06:49 AM   #40
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sorry to bring up an old thread, i just want to share this with everyone.

this is a dyno chart of a stock yaris automatic transmission equipped with a wet nitrous kit running a 50 shot fogger nozzle. timing was retarded when the nitrous starts spraying.

engagement of the nitrous is done via e-manage, using the vtec output.

the owner later increased it to a 75 shot and spun a rod. it is now going through a rebuild with forged internals and will run a direct port system starting with 100 shots.

if anyone plans to run dry kit, you would definitely need to upgrade your injectors if you plan to spray more than 50 shots and you'll need an engine management to richen the injectors when it engages.

personally, i would think a wet kit or a direct port will be best.
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Old 08-03-2009, 07:44 PM   #41
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I just finished installing my "dry" set up yesterday and I just need to get the bottle filled .
Its a zex "safe shot" kit which is bacially just a push button activated system . I have a "30hp" jet in right now . I'll post updates soon.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:05 PM   #42
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lol, wow this thread was garbage from the get-go. bench racers should not be allowed to post what they read about another persons post about their buddy's friend's mom's mustang and pretend it's applicable here.

if the car can handle 75 more turbo horsepower, it should be able to handle 50 more nitrous horsepower (remember that nitrous and turbo power curves are backwards from each other. nitrous comes in hard, and tapers off, turbo comes in soft and ends much "stronger". this is why you should never spray your engine at low revs. your rods can't handle the shock load of 50 extra hp at 2000rpms)

and thanks to those who posted actual knowledge, not BS gleaned from watching youtube.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:49 PM   #43
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lol, wow this thread was garbage from the get-go. bench racers should not be allowed to post what they read about another persons post about their buddy's friend's mom's mustang and pretend it's applicable here.

if the car can handle 75 more turbo horsepower, it should be able to handle 50 more nitrous horsepower (remember that nitrous and turbo power curves are backwards from each other. nitrous comes in hard, and tapers off, turbo comes in soft and ends much "stronger". this is why you should never spray your engine at low revs. your rods can't handle the shock load of 50 extra hp at 2000rpms)

and thanks to those who posted actual knowledge, not BS gleaned from watching youtube.
^^ Word
I plan on doing first test runs with a .20 jet ie around 20hp just to make sure everything is working right then i'll step it up to either a .30=35hp or .32 =38/39hp@950psi bottle pressure . I have the nozzle about 6/7" away from the tb and the same distance from the maf . I'm at about $160 into my set-up right now , minus the nitrous fill up . I plan on getting a bottle warmer when I find one for cheap and a pressure gauge too . I'll post up dyno and or 1/8 mile numbers real soon , just need more cash lol
Btw my car/motor are under warrenty for 83,000 more miles and my dealer/service department guys are all really cool with my car/warrenty work(no questions asked and they dont care my car is modded) so no worrie's if I happen to ef' the motor up with too much n2o
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:49 AM   #44
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Remember to run premium fuel.
Perhaps some Lucas or Torco octane booster and 1 step colder plugs... all cheap upgrades that will help you prevent detonation. Especially on a dry shot.

Post some numbers and vids..!
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:34 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamago View Post
nitrous comes in hard, and tapers off, turbo comes in soft and ends much "stronger". this is why you should never spray your engine at low revs. your rods can't handle the shock load of 50 extra hp at 2000rpms)
agreed, the solenoids was only triggered when the rpm reaches a minimum range of 3,500 and TPS indicating more than 90% opening.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:38 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CASTREX View Post
Remember to run premium fuel.
Perhaps some Lucas or Torco octane booster and 1 step colder plugs... all cheap upgrades that will help you prevent detonation. Especially on a dry shot.

Post some numbers and vids..!
I understand you'd want to run the colder plugs when using the nitrous to avoid detonation, but what's the effect of running one step colder the rest of the time?
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:49 AM   #47
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does the wet kit going to make the intake system dirty???
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:45 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bearda View Post
I understand you'd want to run the colder plugs when using the nitrous to avoid detonation, but what's the effect of running one step colder the rest of the time?
I think im gonna stay in the same heat range but go with either the zex plugs or e3 diamond fire plugs . From what i've read its not so much a wrong heat range plug causing detonation with nitrous as the spark plug grounding strap getting too hot and basically turning the spark plug to a glow plug .
http://www.zex.com/Pages/60/4%20and%...20Engines.aspx
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Old 08-06-2009, 06:28 PM   #49
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does the wet kit going to make the intake system dirty???
Not really! I have been spraying for three bottles now and no issues with a dirty intake. If anything its cleaner :)
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:17 PM   #50
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Nitrous? Im doing it either way.....

Okay so im going to be putting the bottle on in a few weeks after my intake/exhaust setup...But i was wondering if anyone has ran nitrous on this car yet? Im doing a 50 shot Wet, i was wondering if you can get 1 step colder plugs for these cars, and how do the stock clutches hold up? Im shooting for low 15's on nitrous with bolt-ons. Maybe 135-140whp
Ill keep you guys updated! Here is the kit going on! It was on my Redline, this is an NX kit with a dual mainline for two 5 l/b bottles
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:36 PM   #51
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I just installed mine (set-up for 35 dry shot) a few weeks ago , but haven't filled the tank yet cause I still need to switch plug ( same heat range just with 3 grounding straps ) and want to make the first couple runs @ the track to make sure everything is good . Looks like a sweet kit you got keep us posted
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:11 PM   #52
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wow dude cool stuff... if we meet up to take some pics I want a ride
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:13 PM   #53
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If you are gonna go wet, you might wanna consider another fuel rail you can tap for the "wet" part of the shot, lol. its a return-less fuel system.

however definetely keep us posted, because I am adding nitrous sometime soon as well, and if you find a nice easy way without buying another fuel rail or tapping this one, let me know.
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:02 PM   #54
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^ Alex I think you are thinking about a direct port system. With a wet inject kit you usually add between the MAF and TB or right after the TB
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