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Old 01-21-2011, 03:49 AM   #19
djct_watt
 
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I've been looking into this, actually. I noticed that SOME thai-spec Yarii come with rear disc brakes. I don't know if the conversion is plug and play, and if there will need to be any changes in brake force distribution. I can't imagine that the fluid pressure needed to correctly operate a disc brakes is identical to that of the drums. . .
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Old 01-21-2011, 01:27 PM   #20
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This is for you all looking to do big brakes and or rear disc conversions.

Getting the right ratio:
In order to get the correct ratio for your brake system a few measurements must be taken. First, remove the old master cylinder. Measure from the center line of the pivot point “P” of the brake arm to the pivot point of the master cylinder rod to get length “B”. Next, measure from the pivot point of the master cylinder rod to the center of the footpad to get length “A”. Finally, divide length “A” by length “B”. This will give you your pedal ratio. The recommended ratio should be 7:1. For example, if length “A” was 14 “ and length “B” was 2”, then 14/2=7.

Proper bedding of new pads:New brake pads require a bedding process. This bedding procedure starts by pumping your brakes at a very low speed to ensure proper brake operation. Make a series of hard stops at progressively higher speeds. Continue this process until brake fade is felt. Park the car and give the pads a chance to cool completely. Improper pad bedding results in glazed pads diminishing stopping ability. Brake pads should be checked regularly. If pads are wearing evenly, they can be used almost down to the backing plate.

Bleeding the system:An initial gravity bleeding is recommended to remove most of the air in the system. This is accomplished by filling the master cylinder with fresh fluid and opening the bleed ports. Leave the top off the master cylinder. Fluid will flow into and fill the calipers. Be sure to keep fluid in the reservoir to keep air out of the system. This process will take some time. A final bleeding is accomplished by firmly pressing the brake pedal and having someone open the bleed port until the pedal goes to the floor, closing the bleed port before the pedal is lifted. Do not pump the pedal while bleeding. This only foams the fluid and prevents proper bleeding. Repeat this process for all brakes until pedal is high and firm. Be sure no air bubbles come from the calipers.

Master Cylinder: The master cylinder requirements vary depending on front/rear brake combination. If you are using 4 piston calipers on the front and rear it will require a master cylinder with a minimum bore size of 1 1/32.

Proportioning Valves:Used for adjusting line pressure. (On that line only that it is attached)
A proportioning valve does not redistribute line pressure from front to rear it only adjusts the pressure on the line that is hook-up to. Do not get confused on what this valve does.

Residual Valve
Used for keeping line pressure on drum brakes (keeps tension on the springs) or for a master cylinder that is at level or below the caliper.

XBG
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Old 01-21-2011, 02:54 PM   #21
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Awesome info. . . thanks for the reply. So does that mean that the pressure is even across all the brake lines, regardless of drum or disc? Does this mean that it would be a direct swap if OEM disc brakes can be found?
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:23 PM   #22
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RunStop rear disc conversion:
http://shop.microimageonline.com/Yar...Y-RearDisc.htm

Works great, and you can get it in Thailand (if that's where you are).

My experience from racing the car with this kit installed was that this did proportion more braking to the rear, but just a little.
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:35 PM   #23
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The pressure is not even across the brake lines. The port closest to the M/C will have more pressure typically than the one furthest out. There are lots of things that are involved when setting up a brake system. If you want to know how to set the best system up for your self, I will need to know what you are using for front and rear brakes.

What kind of calipers will be used?
What will be the size of the pistons and how many?
The same questions apply to the rear.

Once I know this I can calculate your M/C size and pedal ratio. Some things in your stock system may not even need to change depending on what your going to do.

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Old 01-21-2011, 06:41 PM   #24
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Here is a pic of my rear disc kit.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SANY0062.JPG (258.4 KB, 545 views)
File Type: jpg SANY0069.JPG (216.2 KB, 538 views)
File Type: jpg SANY0071.JPG (208.7 KB, 532 views)
File Type: jpg SANY0075.JPG (228.4 KB, 532 views)
File Type: jpg SANY0072.JPG (176.7 KB, 536 views)
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:27 AM   #25
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I'm looking at converting OEM rear drums to OEM rear discs, both for the Yaris. In Asia, They are available with OEM rear discs too, but only come on fully spec'd auto's and not 5spds. I don't know the specs since I haven't sourced one from a junkyard yet.

Look here: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3081 for pics.

I've tried to asks the dealers for info, but they are all clueless. . . the Toyota tech's here don't even know about torquing to spec, or anything about proper setup. An alignment involves driving the car around the block (they almost never set it up on the rack), and even though I have a headlight shooting almost straight up, the DEALER says it's aligned, because his crosseyed eyes said so. Labor is dirt cheap here, but knowledge is in limited supply. If I do this conversion, I'm doing it myself. I don't trust the tech's here.
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Old 11-02-2011, 03:31 PM   #26
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What about Celica or (Ugh) Civic rears?

Being an avid welder and fabricator, why not?? The Honda thing is a bit wrong but hey, as long as the lug pattern is correct, only I would know. As for older Celica stuff, why not? Bolt pattern is correct, Car weights are not too far off. Parts would still be Toyota sourced. Wouldn't confuse a shop nearly as much. Thinking I might try this with the Celica parts next summer so I'll let you know.
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:03 PM   #27
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^ That will be a great post!
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:33 PM   #28
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pirelli p6000 with brembo max discs and pads on my mk1 1.3 SR does the job!
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:04 PM   #29
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^ I bet it does!
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:13 AM   #30
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What about 3rd-gen rear disk swap? (maybe there's already be a dedicated thread for that?)
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:00 PM   #31
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What about 3rd-gen rear disk swap? (maybe there's already be a dedicated thread for that?)
3rd gen what?
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:19 PM   #32
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2012+ Yaris. The SE comes with rear disks.
Sorry for the confusion; I suppose for us in the US, it's just the second generation of the Yaris. There's a whole forum on this site entitled "Third Generation Yaris General Discussion" referring to the 2012 and later models.
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:43 PM   #33
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2012+ Yaris. The SE comes with rear disks.
Sorry for the confusion; I suppose for us in the US, it's just the second generation of the Yaris. There's a whole forum on this site entitled "Third Generation Yaris General Discussion" referring to the 2012 and later models.
Oh of course. The rear brakes are probably similar to the corolla as well.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:04 AM   #34
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I think there is no 3rd Generation of Yaris. If it is there please let me know about it.
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:43 AM   #35
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thread resurrection.

1st gen Yaris = Echo = pre-2006 (or 2007 depending on where you live)
2nd gen Yaris = 2006=2011
3rd gen Yaris = 2012+
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Old 12-28-2014, 08:10 PM   #36
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Still interested in any cross model part swapping ie corolla rear disks or some kind of rear sway
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