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Old 02-05-2012, 10:04 PM   #1
yaris2010RS
 
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Boost Gets U Laid eh? Count me In

***MOD'S IF THE TITLE IS A ISSUE LET ME KNOW, ILL CHANGE IT PLEASE DONT DELETE***

So ive finally got just about all my turbo together and set up, just waiting for a install date (by the looks of it install date will be the week of the Feb 20th)

so far my kit consists of:

GT2052 turbo
1zz fuel injectors
AEM FIC
PnP Boomslang harness
2.5" exhaust with HighFlow Cat
Front Mount I/C
AEM wide band o2 gauge
Autometer boost gauge
HKS Bov SSQV

*looking for oil pressure gauge
*plan this week to go out and get some new spark plugs (either 6 or 7 heat rating)
*plan for new clutch within a year

watch for FS threads with no longer needed yaris parts
*http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38255

my plan is to keep it around 4-6PSI, i plan to keep all internals stock, stock fuel pump, i do plan to hook up the water line to the turbo also

i am very worried about this install for a few reasons, first it is my DD so i simply cannot afford to be Stuck. this is y i have planned for the install to take place durring the week of the 20th, i have the week off both school and work.

i have read so much and hopefully learned something along the way but i still have a few pre install questions.

since this car wil be my DD i need to do a slow install, so i need to know what i can drive with on my car without killing something. my plan was to install the fuel injectors and spark plugs the weekend before, can the 1znfe engine using the stock ecu drive with the 1zz injectors? also i plan to gap my spark plugs at .032 im assuming this will not be a problem to have.

another issue im not sure about is the oil lines. YES i know i need to tap the block for oil return line, but what about the oil feed line? i havent seen many threads with this discussed. i have recently seen a few people with the sandwich adapter, is this the only way or can i get feed from anywhere?

the vacuum line for the BOV, where does it go?

FITTINGS, is there a special grade of fittings i need to shop for? i dont like shopping for these things online, id like to find them locally, anyone know of some stores to start at for looking for fittings?

something else that has lapsed my mind till now, what is the purpose to wrap the turbo? is this important or not? what is the reason
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Last edited by yaris2010RS; 02-05-2012 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:28 PM   #2
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good luck on the install seems u got the right parts for a safe install of course tuning once installed is a must for any turbo. Any pics of the parts. Im sure we've all seem it a thousands times but for me it never gets old.
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:41 AM   #3
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:14 PM   #4
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You only have two weeks to source the rest of the parts? Hmmm...

1. What psi is the spring in the turbo, assuming you have an internal wastegate?
2. What reasoning led you to that spark plug gap?
3. I don't see manifold, downpipe, or any piping on your list. What's up with that?

You can grab an oil line from the oil pressure sensor exit.

Quote:
since this car wil be my DD i need to do a slow install, so i need to know what i can drive with on my car without killing something. my plan was to install the fuel injectors and spark plugs the weekend before
This is worrisome. You WILL have some downtime turbo-ing a Toyota Yaris at some point. Period. Further, injectors and plugs save maybe 20-30 minutes on your install Doing that as a separate mod beforehand is not helpful.

Got more questions?
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:38 PM   #5
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Thanks Garm,

i got a custom maifold made at a friends shop (his dad shop rebuilds classic cars) and i also got the downpipe and full exhaust with high flow cat partly fabricated 2.5"mandrel bent (enough for me to put it all on my car and then take it there later for "adjustments")

lol, i got the gap size from the other threads ive read, turbo members complained with the bigger gap they were missing.

for the the I/C piping, i have a shit-ton of aluminum pipe 2.25", some straight, some 90's and even more black silicone fittings with crome clamps.
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:45 PM   #6
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I highly do not recommend doing this project without another form of transportation. Speaking from experience, even having a shop doing the work, may take longer than just 2 weeks. I say this because they will not be working on your car "alone". They will have other cars that are quick and easy money compared to a modified yaris which will give them headaches if this is thier first turbo yaris.

You need to have alot of time, patience and mechanically inclined to really take on this yourself in 2 weeks also. Even if archangel is going to be there step by step.

I am just saying the chances of this going smooth and simple are slim. You may be one of the rare exceptions though. By all means, I dont know your personal situation, but if this is your DD and you plan on doing this in 2 weeks, expect some road blocks. Keep in mind you will probably have to run to the part store a few hundred times for misc. items.

you will have to learn AN and NPT fittings, which is which.

People use heat wrap on thier turbo and piping to reduce engine bay temps. being that the ECU is bolted to the fire wall next to the exhaust could potentially do some damage. turbo's build up ALOT of heat.
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:16 PM   #7
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thanks, ilkierice (lol finally understood your mane when i was writing it)

ive assisted with turbo installs before but that was just as a helping hand. also dont get me wrong ive been getting ready for this for about a year now, also have had the turbo sitting in my basement for about a year and is basically all built and mocked up. i realize i will have mistakes and i will need to run out to the store many many times.

when i say this is my DD and only car it is, but i live with my mom and step dad, ill have access to another car if needed for a quick run to the store, i can also work out carpooling if needed to get to work or school. its just something i dont want to do but i have planned for it. also if need be and its not snowing or raining or stupid cold i could run over to the parts store on my bike.

i will have to find some heat wrap soon too, thanks

only reason this didnt get installed sooner was cuz we sold our house and we were renting for a while till our new house was built, we moved in Jan 20th and ive been like a fat kid wanting chocolate for this

i want this, i want this bad, almost like i need it
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:59 PM   #8
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Without even reading this thread: yes.

Now onto business.
Quote:
my plan is to keep it around 4-6PSI, i plan to keep all internals stock, stock fuel pump, i do plan to hook up the water line to the turbo also
Ok.

Quote:
i am very worried about this install for a few reasons, first it is my DD so i simply cannot afford to be Stuck. this is y i have planned for the install to take place durring the week of the 20th, i have the week off both school and work.
Not Ok. Be prepared to use alternate transportation. I hate to say it but things will go wrong. You can read all you like, but unforeseeable things will happen.

Quote:
my plan was to install the fuel injectors and spark plugs the weekend before, can the 1znfe engine using the stock ecu drive with the 1zz injectors? also i plan to gap my spark plugs at .032 im assuming this will not be a problem to have.
Sure can. The ECU will adjust fuel trims to account for a smaller gap and larger injectors.

Quote:
another issue im not sure about is the oil lines. YES i know i need to tap the block for oil return line, but what about the oil feed line? i havent seen many threads with this discussed. i have recently seen a few people with the sandwich adapter, is this the only way or can i get feed from anywhere?
Just use the sandwich adapter. It's by far the most simple solution. Plus you can put senders for gauges there also.

Quote:
the vacuum line for the BOV, where does it go?
Anywhere that receives manifold pressure. Tap it right into the vacuum line that stems off the manifold.

Quote:
FITTINGS, is there a special grade of fittings i need to shop for? i dont like shopping for these things online, id like to find them locally, anyone know of some stores to start at for looking for fittings?
Home Depot, Lowes, Sears hardware, etc. I agree buying fittings online is difficult, and I haven't had any problem with any of my fittings.

Quote:
something else that has lapsed my mind till now, what is the purpose to wrap the turbo? is this important or not? what is the reason
I think this was already answered. I wouldn't worry about it too much tbh. Yes the turbo increases engine bay temps but it's really no cause for concern.

One last thing:
Quote:
i want this, i want this bad, almost like i need it
Good attitude but not quite. You don't want this. You NEED this.

Good luck.

Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 02-06-2012 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 02-06-2012, 04:02 PM   #9
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Just got the cliff notes. Here is my input.
Proper planning and it can be installed in a day. Thats how long it took me but I planned and mapped out evey step for a week. I did this on my DD and could only be out of work for 3 days. Things will go wrong yes, but having a proper detailed plan in place helps out alot. When i mean detailed I am talking about having it down to how many and what type of bolts go where, washers, gaskets, piping route, ect.
As far as something going wrong down the line, yes count on that and it can not be avoided.
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:34 PM   #10
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sounds like you are ready. I wish you the best of luck.. I am jealous just the fact that you have all your stuff sitting at your feet.
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
1. What psi is the spring in the turbo, assuming you have an internal wastegate?
Didn't answer this, and I'd like to see the manifold, please.
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:25 PM   #12
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i was told the spring was set to ~7psi but unless i can verify this im not really gonna trust it. once its on im hoping to play with the wastegate preload till i can verify it will remain in the rage of 4-6
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:28 PM   #13
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You cannot run less boost than what the waste gate spring is unless you modify the waste gate hole to be larger. So if the waste gate is 7 psi that is the least amount of boost you can run.
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBO YARIS View Post
You cannot run less boost than what the waste gate spring is unless you modify the waste gate hole to be larger. So if the waste gate is 7 psi that is the least amount of boost you can run.
^^^ This. Its also very easy to port the hole larger.
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:30 PM   #15
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That's what I was headed for. Good help around here.
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:29 AM   #16
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like i said its believed to be "set" to ~7, not sure what the base spring rate is
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:37 PM   #17
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update:

so far I/C and piping has gone into the car and im running my intake through the I/C and it appears my car has more balls and my fuel efficency has gone up quite a bit (appears to be an 11% imporvement, proven on 2 tanks, mix of city, hwy and country driving)

gauges are also mounted (except water temp and oil pressure which im still trying to source) i decided to mount them a slightly different way then usual (pics will be posted once weather gets nicer) and therefore ill shortly have my gauge pod for sale

Question:

to run water temp, do i run this off water into the turbo or water out of the turbo? i am assuming if i go before the turbo ill get rad water temp but if i run after the turbo ill get turbo water temp. what is best? how big ofr a difference between the 2 readings should there be?
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:07 PM   #18
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UPDATE:
turbo is installed and runs like a champ. working on a tune currently. so far everything went to plan and only issue i had was i refused to remove the A/C lines to install so i had to "build" my turbo while it was behind the block. (very annoying step to have one guy hold it from under the car and one guy hold it from above)

the turbo was pushing 6psi to start so i played with the waste gate thingy and preloaded it more so currently im pushing 9psi and all is well. im probably gonna lower the boost a bit, think 9psi might be a bit high for a DD

after i got it running and somewhat tuned the only code i got was a P0101 for the Mass or Volume Air Circuit Range, i am assuming this is due to too much air flowing thru the maf? the conflicting information of this is in the freeze frame data, the code was thrown while engine load was only 85%, rpm was 2171 and the maf (g/s) was 22.92. im wondering if this is a sign my bov isnt functioning correctly or i dont have the maf clamp working properly

tuning im looking greatly at the afr, i wanna make sure my engine is safe (again as it is my DD) and its jumping around alot, at a safe limit when i punch it (afr gauge says 10.0) and when im accelerating normally its around 11.6-12.5 and when im cruzing (with cruze control on) it jumps up to 13.6-15.0, this seems off to me. do these numbers sound right? or atleast safe?
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