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Old 05-05-2012, 12:58 PM   #1
auxmike
 
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DIY : changing the Oxygen / O2 sensor on Yaris hatch MANY PICS

This is just a pictorial of what you will see and what I used to do the job. Do this at your own risk! You can get burned and really screw up your car trying to remove these parts. If you get stuck, you may need to hire a mechanic to to fix your mess, $$$.
I was able to successfully change out both my AF Sensor and the lower oxygen/O2 sensor. I learned real fast that doing this with cold pipes is futile. Upon running the car and getting things hot the job moved quickly.
I started by trying to remove the lower sensor with a cold exhaust and it turned about half a turn even using a large pipe wrench AND a floor jack to push up on the darn wrench! It would not turn.Period. I tried again the next night with a hot exhaust and spraying some WD40 on the point where the sensor meets the threaded bung. I rocked the tool back and fourth as I got it to start turning while continuing with little shots of the WD40. It was SO much easier with a hot pipe! There are pics showing how bad the threads were stripped on that lower sensor, damage from working with a cold pipe and almost snapping off the sensor... The sensors connector plug is INSIDE the car, you will need to remove the center consol to unplug it and feed the new wires in.
The top one was done using the same technique. That one was EASY. I only needed a 3/8 drive ratchet with the shorter cast steel tool to crack it loose. After hearing how members trying to remove these top units were unable to, I wonder if they used heat to open up the threads first, or if I got REAL lucky taking the risk getting it out without hiring a mechanic.
There's a black metal plate that's bolted onto the engine just above the axel boot. Remove the nut from the right side and the bolt from the left side using a 12mm dep socket. I used a 1/4 drive no problem. If you don't remove this plate first don't bother attempting the job.
I've added many pics. Some show a few variations of tools you can use to turn that stubborn sensor. Having them all lets you switch between them as needed. WD40 is a lot better than it gets credit for. After I started the car there was some smoke coming off the pipes as the lubricant burn off.
I was super happy with the results!
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:02 PM   #2
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#2
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:04 PM   #3
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#3
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:18 PM   #4
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Notes;
Denso is OEM evidently, Not NGK/NTK. I thought otherwise.
Sensors cost: Top. $160, Bottom $125. Not cheap but 100% correct with proper wire lengths and fantastic quality. Don't buy the generic one that requires splicing. Pennywise, pound foolish. I like going the cheapest route too, but that top sensor is a super important part and if it's not just right a CEL might go off and you won't be happy.
THe sensors both have 50,000 miles of service. The grey one is from the top. They look pretty good after all those miles. No black soot. I've never seen such a clean set before! Guess I'm not burning oil, LOL! You can't see the fasteners on the black metal plate, but I shoved the camera up into the engine so you can. I used rhino ramps, NOT a jack. I did'nt disconnect the battery, but it's probably safer to. The sensors come pre coated with anti seize. 22mm is the socket size. A 7/8 inche wrench should work too. Don't use a hammer!
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Last edited by auxmike; 05-05-2012 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:43 PM   #5
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Thanx for DIY. I didn't know there was a special socket for that. May I ask why you replaced them? Was it because of a check engine light problem?
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:53 PM   #6
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No check engine, just a fanatic owner. I figure after 50K of burning Hell the things might be getting a little tired. I used to change my Saturns single wire Sensor every 30,000 mlies. Always with the $56 dealer part too. My old '97 Saturn had a recurring light for both sensors. Car ran kinda bad too, not much power. Well, I found both the sensors for $49 the pair shipped on Ebay! The bottom was Bosch, the top some other brand. Both with exact fit connectors. I saw no point in buying OEM for a 15 YO car with over 170,000 miles on it. The car has so much power now, like new!
I'd say leave the bottom Yaris one alone after seeing how nice mine looked. That is unless you get a specific code for it. The top one is worth swapping out to keep it running smooth with good power and MPGs. My butt dyno swears the car feels "faster" too....
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:05 PM   #7
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Thanks Mike for posting with pics and info.
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:24 PM   #8
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It's my pleasure!
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:50 PM   #9
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my english is bad.

My yaris (TOYOTA YARIS (NCP90L-AGMRK)) have code P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). it has two oxygen sensors, which one should I replace according to the diagram below ...

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_200...html?hl=89465A

which one is Bank 1 sensor 1... the part number 89465-52370 or 89465-52380 number

Last edited by jaherrera1; 05-05-2012 at 10:52 PM. Reason: wrong url
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:07 PM   #10
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which of the two shown in the photos is the bank 1 sensor 1 ... the one with the blue in the middle or the other
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:09 PM   #11
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please sombody help me, here in venezuela nobody knows which of the two shown in the photos is the bank 1 sensor 1 ... the one with the blue in the middle or the other
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:45 PM   #12
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I think the top one would be sensor 1. Neither of those part numbers matches the ones I have in my pictures for my 2008.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:38 AM   #13
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Don't forget to chock the wheels....
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:34 PM   #14
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OEM Denso sensors are $61 and $97 at RockAuto.com...+ 12 for shipping...Dont pay dealership prices...
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:28 PM   #15
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the wide range O2 sensor-aka the air/fuel sensor- is bank 1, the one found up front just under the engine. Pep boys wanted 250 for the sensor and 200 dollars labor. Thanks to these pictures I got the sensor for 119 from advance auto parts, rented some oxygen sensor tools-for free-and got the job done in about 15 minutes of actual hands on work. Note, my bank 1 sensor was super easy to pop off, right away with like a 3 inch long socket wrench (not much torque at all). hardest part for me was disconnecting couplers, but it wasnt too hard. Ha, 200 labor. Will never go to pep boys again.
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:14 PM   #16
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auxmike, thanks for the write up and tips!!
I just changed the front O2 sensor in my '07 hatch while I was under there doing the oil/filter change. Maybe took an extra 15 minutes. Removing that axleshaft shield improved the working room. I did not have the fancy offset sockets but was able to use a 22mm box/open wrench. Although there was not much room to swing the wrench so next time I'll get one of those sockets. The exhaust was sort of warmed up but luckily the sensor loosened right up and had no stripped threads.

My '07 and the original O2 sensor has 160,099 miles on it. The mpg isn't what it used to be and well beyond the winter blend fuel change. So if this sensor really has a 50,000 mile service interval, I may see an improvement. I'll be checking the next few fill up to see if that is the case. Used the Denso direct fit sensor rather than the Toyota boxed Denso sensor, they are identical except for the etched printing on the sensor bodies. $103 shipped from Rock Auto was easier to justify than the $120+ Toyota one.
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Old 03-09-2013, 03:14 PM   #17
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Glad to hear it!
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:19 PM   #18
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in my 2007 yaris sedan i replaced the o2 sensor with little effort... i found removing the battery helped.

I used a long handle 1/2" driver with an 3" extension in conjunction with the special o2 sensor tool. the 4" extension was a bit too long which caused the driver to push against the clutch cable, but i had a 3" impact extension that worked great.
I did but a small amount of anti seize on the oz sensor threads.
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