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Old 08-16-2017, 01:28 PM   #1
atomic_hoji
 
Drives: 2018 Yaris SE 5MT
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2018 Yaris SE 5MT - T-Sport w/Valvematic!

Hello All!

I've loved my 2007 FJ Cruiser and had lots of good times with it, but we decided as the family has grown and everyone needs to be out and about to different places all the time that it's time to move on from the truck; seriously, the FJC rear doors are not small kid friendly.. After some serious reading (lots here on Yaris World) we've decided to stay in the Toyota family and have a 2018 Yaris SE 5MT on order - coming soon (soon'ish? Not soon enough!). Apparently SEs aren't common and neither are 5MTs, so have to wait for a build.

As there's no picture yet, posted a placeholder (with appropriate details blanked) for the time being..
-- Adam

EDIT: It's here! Arrived last Saturday, been driving it this week - fun little ride. Engine pic to show the 1NZ before the swap; for reminiscing. When I paid for oil spray (we salt the heck out of our roads) I assumed it was underspray, not all-over-the-entire-body-of-the-car spray.
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File Type: jpg yaris_side_view.jpg (235.7 KB, 154 views)
File Type: jpg yaris_engine_before.jpg (176.1 KB, 153 views)

Last edited by atomic_hoji; 11-02-2017 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Photo update!
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Old 08-16-2017, 04:02 PM   #2
atomic_hoji
 
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Hmm.. YW newbe, follow-up post with 2ZR-FAE pic is MIA. Mod approval req'd? Not quite the same as SONTT.

BTW - If there's any former SONTT members out in YW say Hello!

-- Adam

edit: updated with eye candy; including that magic valvematic black box!
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File Type: jpg yaris_2zr-cnk.jpg (131.7 KB, 215 views)
File Type: jpg yaris_2zr-flw.jpg (188.9 KB, 214 views)

Last edited by atomic_hoji; 08-18-2017 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:25 PM   #3
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Grats on the pre-order. The Yaris SE is very nearly the perfect little runabout.
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:43 PM   #4
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Post Section A - Wiring Info

Appreciate it, thanks!

I haven't come across a 3rd gen. swap yet or one that uses the 2ZR-FAE. So, I'm going to use this thread to document what I run into as I go in hopes of helping others that want to do it as well.

The 2ZR-FE swap is well documented on YW - and big thanks to those who have put so much good information up for the rest of us! The article on Subcompact Culture about Tom Armstrong's 2nd gen. sedan and the related YouTube video on TheSmokingTire channel is how I caught the bug.. Lurking YW sealed the deal.

One of the elegant parts to the 2ZR-FE swap for the 2nd gen. is using the Scion xD harness and ECM as it is plug and play with the 2nd gen. Yaris. I don't have the 2nd gen. EWDs (if/when I subscribe to TIS again I'll have to remember to get them..) but I imagine a lot of the 3rd gen. wiring is the same or similar, save for additions such as TSS-C, etc.. so it would likely still work or maybe require modification - probably less than using a Corolla or iM; wait, why am I doing this the hard way..? lol However, the Scion xD isn't as common as a Corolla or iM, has no -FAE option, and won't have the updated features of the newest models. Unfortunately, sourcing from a Corolla or iM isn't quite as plug and play - very similar in many ways as fortunately Toyota is standard (lazy? ) about wiring - but will open the option of Valvematic and the modern ECUs have the gadget support if you can get a hold of a new enough ECU. Working through and documenting the wiring differences will provide an alternative to get the 2ZR-F(A)E into our 3rd gen. Yaris'.

With rainy weather yesterday and today I've been doing a rundown on the ECM diagrams. I'm using a 2016 Scion iM 6MT engine, harness, and ECM. Because most of the engine related sensors etc.. are on the large, 135-pin connector and included direct in the engine harness, and I have the matched set I'm less worried about these; also, it's 135-pins and mildly intimidating! lol I did the rundown on the 60-pin connector for differences between the iM and the Yaris..

-- Adam


Updated (18-Nov-2017: keep wiring information for the swap in one post in the thread, clean up the post, and add some additional information.)
--

Modifications to ECM Connectors

The 60-pin ECM connector, called 'A72' for Yaris or 'A31' for iM in respective EWDs, is the connection between the ECM and the engine room harness in the Yaris.

On the Yaris 5MT vehicle, all pins on A72 map 1:1 with A31 with the following exception:
(shown as PIN# - ECM name - Function)

Yaris has 2 pins to run the cooling fan high and low speed:
07 - FANL - FAN NO.1 Relay
08 - FANH - FAN NO.2 Relay

where-as the iM uses a single pin out to a cooling fan ECU to control fan speed.
45 - RFC - Cooling Fan ECU

Solution: open the 60-pin connector housing and map (aka: de-pin and re-pin to new connector location) pin 07 -> pin 45 (I chose this as pin 07 uses a red wire, which then matches the iM EWD) and pin 08 -> blank (green wire; remove, seal, and secure). This provides a wire from the ECM to the main Junction Box (JB). There will then be a wire run from the JB to the Cooling Fan ECU.

Otherwise, as noted, the pins for the 60-pin connector expected by the ECM are all the same; for function that is. It's important to note that the sources sometimes differ slightly - either different fuse ratings or via different body connectors. The next step is to map the source connectors as I've already found that the Scion iM 6MT uses a different interface connector (18-pin + separate 2-pin for Starter and Valvematic power) versus the Yaris (26-pin).

The 135-pin ECM connector, called 'B38' in the iM EWD, is on the main engine harness, which is on the engine and matches the iM ECM, so there's nothing to re-pin or worry about.

As a side-note: There are a number of other differing pins related to AT (Yaris) and CVT (iM) control on the 60-pin connector as well. I've listed these, but none are present for me as I'm using a MT harness.
41 - S - Shift Position (CVT only)
43 - SFTD - Transmission Control SFTD (CVT only)
57 - PWMS - Combo Sw. MSW1 (CVT only)
58 - 3 - Shift Lock AT3 (AT only)
59 - SFTU - Transmission Control SFTU (CVT only)

--

Modification of Engine to Body Connectors

The connector(s) between the main engine harness and the body harness, 18-pin 'BA2' and 2-pin 'BA3' on iM and 26-pin 'CA3' on Yaris in the respective EWDs, supply power and signals from elsewhere in the vehicle to items on the engine. Below is the re-map needed to move wires from BA2 into an OEM 26-pin female connector (p/n: 90980-12771) to mate with the Yaris' CA3 male connector:
(shown as PIN# [terminal size] --> PIN# [terminal size]

01 [1.5] --> 12 [0.64II]
02 [1.5] --> 20 [0.64II]
03 [1.5] --> 14 [1.5]
04 [1.5] --> 01 [1.5]
05 [1.5] --> 01 [1.5]
06 [1.5] --> 26 [1.5]
07 [1.5] --> 22 [0.64II]
09 [0.64II] --> blank
10 [0.64II] --> 25 [0.64II]
11 [0.64II] --> 25 [0.64II]
12 [1.5] --> 19 [0.64II]
14 [0.64II] --> 22 [0.64II]
15 [0.64II] --> 08 [0.64II]
16 [0.64II] --> 24 [0.64II]
17 [0.64II] --> 02 [0.64II]
18 [1.5] --> 15 [1.5]

Pin 09 is for the canister module ground, however the Yaris uses a local ground connection on the canister module, so it isn't needed. The MAF B+ line is different between the two harnesses - the Yaris runs from the JB to the MAF, where-as the iM expects a power line on the BA2 connector. When removing the 1NZ, a supply needs to the created and put into pin 26 on the male connector <-- note the change to the Yaris' harness.

An additional change is the 2-pin BA3 connector contains power for the starter solenoid and the Valvematic controller. CA3 pin 26 has the corresponding starter solenoid supply on the Yaris, and a new 30A fused wire from the JB needs to be run for the Valvematic power supply. A new, 2-pin male + female connector combo with corresponding wire terminals makes this easiest.

--

Cooling Fan ECU Conversion
The cooling fan ECU (Toyota P/N: 89257-12010) is used on a number of Toyota and Mazda models. I ordered one new from a Chinese eBay seller for approx. $20 because of the low price; we'll see how it works out. They can be found via search of the wreckers under 'Computer Box not Engine' then 'Cooling Fan' or from your Toyota Parts dealer (not cheap!). Plan is remap pin 07 -> pin 45 to get a wire and blank pin 08, then do a 3-wire run from the relay block to the cooling fan ECU.

Last edited by atomic_hoji; 11-18-2017 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Update with new wiring info
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Old 08-18-2017, 02:17 PM   #5
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I love how much research your putting in to your swap. Only 3 posts, no questions, or bs, straight to the point.

Respect.
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:44 PM   #6
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Thanks for the props, deng.

Plan is to be have these differences documented and addressed ahead of time so when I'm ready to swap it goes in smooth - don't want an on-going, troubleshooting nightmare with my reliable set of wheels. Hell, if I get it all correct and it goes in smooth maybe it'll encourage others to follow suit with the -FAE.

With more rain today interfering with my wood shed building plan I decided to rundown the 135-pin ECM connector for a bit this afternoon instead - garage does smell great with the stacked spruce lumber.. lol

Found P/N: 82121-12U30 is for the 2016 Scion iM MT if you need to buy a new, complete harness ($$$). The same part number also applies for the 2017 Corolla iM MT. So if you're searching the wreckers either year will work, but be aware of (or prepared to repair) wiring harness butchering! Also, if you have a newer model Yaris the 2017 ECM will support the TSS-C functions; I will give TSS-C up for this swap using the 2016 ECM.

Never-the-less, the important part: for the 135-pin ECM connector, which is integrated into the engine harness, I tracked all wires by colour and connector and everything from the ECM pinned out on the 135-pin connector is on the engine harness proper (sensors, MAF, cam control, etc..) or goes to the vehicle via the 2 interface connectors (18-pin + 2-pin), respectively. Unfortunately, my meter leads are too fat to fit in the 135-pin connector so I wasn't able to continuity test each wire to verify, but all the colours jived at the appropriate connectors.

Still working to map those 2 connectors to the respective connector on the Yaris, but at a glance it should be do-able.

Quick note for my case: my engine harness was 95% complete from the wrecker - I got pretty lucky that they disconnected most connectors instead of butchering the wiring. Unfortunately, they did chop the wires right at the harness that run to the O2 sensor. On the iM this is a straight wire run, however on the Yaris the wiring to the O2 sensor goes via a connector at the engine room JB. I'll have to do a repair and pin them into the Yaris connector to pick-up the Yaris' O2 sensor. Also had a good bit of news about my engine pull via the CarProof report. Seems the car was at the dealership for service at 101 kms, then 6 weeks later was written off in a rear-end accident. I figure, assuming average driving, there can't be more than 2000 kms on it. Feel bad about the poor luck of the person who purchased it, but am happy to score a seriously low mileage unit!

-- Adam
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:17 PM   #7
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Been busy on a plant equipment shutdown crew, then started a new job a couple weeks ago, but as noted above new Yaris arrived and bits ordered have been showing up over the past few weeks so thought I'd put in a quick update.

Parts collection is on-going, but have the below shopping list complete:
  • 2ZR-FAE motor w/manifolds; flywheel, clutch & pressure plate; throttle body; water pump; alternator; and starter included.
  • A/C compressor
  • ECM and complete engine wire harness (need O2 repair)
  • Injen CAI w/MAF sensor

Still need to find:
  • Axle-back exhaust for 2.25" exhaust
  • Mid-pipe (direct fit catalytic w/resonator)
  • Passenger side engine mount (frame & engine) w/hardware
  • Wiring terminals and connectors

Started opening packages and found that my spangly new Toyota connectors so I can change the Scion iM connector to mate do not come with terminals Literally just the plastic housing - all the aftermarket connectors I've bought for wiring lights or other ancillaries have always come with terminals and grommets (if used)! If anyone out there has a good source for terminals I'd appreciate a heads up!

With cold weather settling in I have some outdoor projects to complete before we get winter settling in. But hoping with a few more internet purchases I'll soon have her ready to roll into the garage to start the swap!

-- Adam

Last edited by atomic_hoji; 11-18-2017 at 10:21 PM. Reason: updated shopping list
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:00 PM   #8
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Awesome thread. Fwiw I've used a reman'd eBay a/c compressor and for the past 20k I'm I've put on it since the swap it has given me no issues.

Good luck with the wiring, an fae would be great
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:18 PM   #9
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Old 11-07-2017, 01:05 PM   #10
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2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Wow, that's an awesome score on your engine! My 2ZR-FE only had 3700 miles on it before the vehicle was rolled. It sat in the warehouse for almost 7 years as well, but fired right up and runs like a champ all day long!

Which terminals do you need? I've got a few bins of spaghetti wire harness mess that could be used for pigtails if I have the right ones. You'd be hard pressed to find the actual terminals in loose/bulk packaging and the OEM crimp tool probably costs $500 or more. Toyota isn't nearly as open with their connector sourcing as some of the USDM companies are, resulting in high costs or outright zero availability of them.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:27 PM   #11
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Hey, thanks for the support guys.

Winter decided to show-up with gusto last night.. Fortunately, I picked up a set of 172/65R15 Michelin X-Ice XI3s (which feel like fat little bicycle tires, I laughed when I got home from work and saw they had been delivered. Honestly, being used to running 33"+ tires on my trucks they're hilarious, but oh so much easier on the back to install! ). Unfortunately, they weren't actually on the car this morning when they'd have been handy, so that was this evenings task.

But anywho, with respect to the 2ZR..

I was able to get a line on a used A/C compressor from another 2ZR vehicle; Corolla or Matrix I think the guy said. It fits, has a 6-rib pulley, and sounds like tmontague's experience shows good luck, so I'll run with it..

Had a disappointing follow-up email about the Magnaflow midpipe though. Seems there's no ETA from Magnaflow for stock, so the order is on hold. Means back to looking for an exhaust setup. Debating waiting until Black Friday sales in a couple of weeks and having something shipped to Port Huron, then make a trip down.

Appreciate the heads up Cranky re: wiring. I found that Ballenger Motorsports carries some of the Sumitomo line of wire terminals that have equivalent Toyota part numbers. I assume they crimp on normally?! To document for those running into wiring in future, I found the following using the EWDs for each vehicle and the Toyota Wire Harness Repair Manual.

. I need to re-pin the main connector between the engine harness and the body (18-pin BA2 and 2-pin BA3 from the 2016 Scion iM MT wire harness, and 26-pin CA3 on the 2018 Yaris harness).
[BA2: 90980-12745]
Toyota: 82998-24290 --> Sumitomo TS F025 (08)
Toyota: 82998-24350 --> Sumitomo TS F060 (10)
[BA3: 90980-10916]
Toyota: 82998-12380 --> Sumitomo TS F187 (02)
** have to map to Sumitomo TS F060 as connector CA3 doesn't use the larger pins.

[CA3: 90980-12771]
Toyota: 82998-24290 --> Sumitomo TS F025 (22)
Toyota: 82998-24350 --> Sumitomo TS F060 (04)
** -12771 isn't listed in the version of the repair manual I have, but I matched the sizes found on BA2; number of pins overall and of each type differs from BA2.

. Need to run a line for the cooling fan CPU from JB to CPU, and power from CPU to fan.
[A24: 90980-10841]
Toyota: ???
[z1: 90980-10928]
Toyota: ???

. Need to repair 4 wires at harness to CA4 for exhaust O2 sensor.
[CA4: 90980–12639]
Toyota: 82998-24290 --> Sumitomo TS F025 (16)
Toyota: 82998-12340 --> Sumitomo TS F090 (04)

I guess that's the long version... Short answer is some wires with female terminals from an engine to body connector and what seem to be larger ones to populate the cooling fan connectors; haven't found the type of terminal yet. I'll get pictures when I'm in the garage this weekend and post them up and see if I can add a picture/description for each of the terminal types.

Take care.
-- Adam
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Wow, that's an awesome score on your engine! My 2ZR-FE only had 3700 miles on it before the vehicle was rolled. It sat in the warehouse for almost 7 years as well, but fired right up and runs like a champ all day long!

...
Man, you made a pretty good score there as well! Good to know there's few to no worries about time sitting on a shelf at the wreckers

Ya, I got pretty lucky, especially that they had all the matching parts, excepting the A/C compressor. I just happened to find it via car-part.com when looking around for a low mileage 2ZR-FE and debating the swap; decided to commit to the swap with -FAE and jumped on it! Once I picked it up and had the VIN I was able to get the CarProof report so I'd have something to verify / estimate the mileage, as if I recall the mileage was not listed in the ad, but they said it was very low. We'll see if my luck holds on with the rest of the project..

-- Adam
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Old 11-12-2017, 04:27 PM   #13
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For the main engine wiring harness connector this is what I'm trying to change. I should note that, like a lot of things I'm running into, I'm doing this to make the swap as elegant a solution as possible; i.e. plug 'n play as much as is reasonable. If you are so inclined you could always cut the 1NZ harness and retrieve 'pigtails' with the needed terminals - I just want to pull the 1NZ complete and unmodified, and leave an unmolested body harness; I don't intend to swap back to the 1NZ, but you never know what may come up.

The below pictures demonstrate the conversion that needs to happen and the terminals involved. LHS is the female BA2 connector on my 2ZR harness, RHS is the female CA3 to match the Yaris. I popped one of the larger terminals, but my camera just can't take a picture that close up. The 2 types of terminals are shown in the Wire Harness Repair Manual diagrams.
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File Type: jpg yaris_engine_connectors.jpg (113.5 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg wire_terminal-24290.jpg (36.7 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg wire_terminal-24350.jpg (33.3 KB, 93 views)
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Old 11-16-2017, 10:12 AM   #14
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The smaller terminals can be removed with a paperclip or sewing needle. Make sure the retention lock is disengaged, poke the needle into the smile-shaped hole, gently pry up/down while pulling on the wire. Shouldn't take any real force to extract them.

What wires/signals don't match up, if any?
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Old 11-18-2017, 09:22 PM   #15
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^ Good tip, thanks Cranky!

I did buy a $10 set of connector tools - they so far work 'so-so' Will try your technique as well.

So, after finally mapping everything out, it's actually not as terrible as I thought it might be; guess it makes sense that if on one vehicle you need an 18awg wire, it'll likely be the same size wire for the same function on the other vehicle..

I updated post #4 with the complete map (just pin numbers and terminal sizes; could add functions if there's interest, but got really busy and cluttered when I started putting it in..) The ones that don't match are:
(pin# [terminal size] --> pin# [terminal size] for function)

01 [1.5] --> 12 [0.64II] for Combo. Meter CHG- -> Generator L
02 [1.5] --> 20 [0.64II] for 5A ICS/ALT-S Fuse -> Generator S
07 [1.5] --> 22 [0.64II] for Cruise ECC; DLC3 SG -> Ground
12 [1.5] --> 19 [0.64II] for Brake Actuator EXI3 -> Back-Up Light Sw.

pin 07 --> pin 22 could actually work if I tie pin 07 & pin 14 together and use the pin 14 terminal to match the corresponding size on the male (Yaris) side.

And I made an executive decision to leave the 2-pin connector stuff separate and just completely re-connector it, instead of dorking around trying to find the associated 4.8 size terminals - this also gives me a 1.5 size location to run the MAF B+ line, which is different between the two vehicles.

I keep trying to avoid modification of the existing harness as much as possible, but it is creating more of a chore; there's something to be said for just getting an aftermarket connector with all the associated parts and just creating a new connection instead of mucking about.
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Old 11-23-2017, 09:38 PM   #16
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Quick update: parts collections is slower than I'd hoped due to unavailability of the exhaust, as well as delays on the order for engine mounts and other misc. parts. Good news is both orders should be shipped next week. Also had an offer from a wheeling buddy to pillage the wiring harness from a parked 4Runner to see if I can find the connectors and terminals I need; I'll check into that this weekend.

With respect to the swap, I have a plan.

Time is a bit of a premium at the moment since I'm currently on the first 6 month portion of training for my new job and have regular progress tests I have to study for. BUT, we break for the Christmas holidays, so I will have a 10 day stretch over the weekend before Christmas until New Years off. I figure that should give me enough time to finish outdoor clean-up before snow sets in, get the garage clear, and collect the remaining parts. Then I'll roll the Yaris into the garage for the break, and roll her out in 2018 a new machine.

Once into the teardown and install I can get some pictures and update the thread with some (hopefully) useful solutions. The wait is killing me.. lol

-- Adam
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Old 01-07-2018, 03:09 PM   #17
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Hope everyone had a great holiday and happy new year!

Long time since last update, but progress, slowly but surely, 'ish - mostly busy. Had a good holiday, lots of visits, had friends we don't see stay extra time from the New Year's weekend as well. Also had another progress test at work for training, so that took some important time; final course this month, then the big exam in February.

Got the 1NZ disconnected and pulled successfully. Things I'd do differently (i) get a cheap digital camera to document! The 2ZR swap is already documented well in other threads, but for my own use it'd be handy. I do have a cell phone camera, but between filthy hands and just forgetting about it as I got busy I didn't grab enough (many at all) pictures.. (ii) follow the goddamn instructions! I hadn't removed the front bumper, rad, etc.. assembly as I figured using an overheard 1 ton hoist I could pop it up and out.. maybe could have, but I made a whoops with my rigging and found the hard way there's not much space in the engine bay - found I had it all nicely setup, but engine mount was caught up, when it came free the transmission side dropped and the whole thing jump and banged around; nothing appears damaged on the Yaris, and on me it was mostly my pride and underoos - scrape and bruise will heal. Did scare the bejesus out of myself though..

Never-the-less, picture proof of progress: a naked engine bay and the clean looking little 1NZ with C50 on the floor.

-- Adam
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Old 01-07-2018, 03:23 PM   #18
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^^^ is how she's been for a bit over a week now. When I went out 23/24-Dec the garage was a balmy 8 C, with the cold snap lately it's about 2 C and is a bit miserable on the fingers and toes being out there. However, even in light of the chill, I've started into the wiring changes today, separating the line to the ECU from the body so it can be relocated to the main JB/battery area.

Good news, it does work!

Pretty straight forward, but for someone following as reference I did the following: dropped the wiring plastic clips to get it free. Then as I removed the tape from the wire bunch gently separated the wires for the ECU connector from the rest of the body harness and reapplied tape as I went to avoid it becoming a loose mess. Only tools were a sharp knife, pliers for the clips, and electrical tape. Obvious note: be careful what you cut!

The main body wiring will get the plastic clips reattached and put back into it's stock position up under the metal lip you can see in the pictures.

I was able to run the ECU wires all the way back to where they come out of the hard plastic unit by the brake booster. This should give enough to run the connector to the ECU if I mount it at the main JB/relay box. The ECU wiring will get bunched and a few pieces of tape and then some plastic wiring loom over it for protection in the engine bay. If I do need to run it back to the stock location I will just run it alongside and retape it to the main body wire bunch.

-- Adam
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