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Old 08-16-2017, 01:28 PM   #1
atomic_hoji
 
Drives: 2018 Yaris SE 5MT
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2018 Yaris SE 5MT - T-Sport w/Valvematic!

Hello All!

I've loved my 2007 FJ Cruiser and had lots of good times with it, but we decided as the family has grown and everyone needs to be out and about to different places all the time that it's time to move on from the truck; seriously, the FJC rear doors are not small kid friendly.. After some serious reading (lots here on Yaris World) we've decided to stay in the Toyota family and have a 2018 Yaris SE 5MT on order - coming soon (soon'ish? Not soon enough!). Apparently SEs aren't common and neither are 5MTs, so have to wait for a build.

As there's no picture yet, posted a placeholder (with appropriate details blanked) for the time being..
-- Adam

EDIT (16-Oct-2017): It's here! Arrived last Saturday, been driving it this week - fun little ride. Engine pic to show the 1NZ before the swap; for reminiscing. When I paid for oil spray (we salt the heck out of our roads) I assumed it was underspray, not all-over-the-entire-body-of-the-car spray.

yaris_side_view.jpg
yaris_engine_before.jpg

EDIT (27-May-2018): Picture of the final engine bay after the 2ZR-FAE install.
yaris_engine_after.jpg

--

Overall Swap Summary
This thread is a build as it progressed and has tidbits of information, discussion, etc.. through-out. I've included this brief summary as the short, to-the-point version noting what was needed to do the swap, but without discussion as to how it was completed.

Engine
A complete 2ZR-FAE from the wrecker including the main engine wiring harness, intake and exhaust manifolds, injectors and fuel system, ignition coils, all sensors, and ancillaries such as starter, A/C compressor, and alternator. The RH engine mounts - both the engine side bracket and the frame side mount - from a Scion xD were used as per the 2ZR-FE swaps already documented.

Cooling System
Radiator filler neck, and radiator and heater hoses from the Scion xD were used: inlet and outlet heater hoses, and upper radiator hose; lower radiator hose from the Yaris was retained, though is a tight fit on the 2ZR thermostat housing. The Yaris radiator was retained. A short piece of 30mm radiator hose is needed to connect the Scion xD filler next to the radiator. The hoses route much easier versus using the Yaris hoses and create space for the main engine harness to the new ECM location.

Exhaust
A 2012 Scion xD complete exhaust system was used, however it does not bolt up without modification. The main pipe is not long enough to reach the rear hanger on the Yaris so the pipe was cut and extended. The rear hanger bracket is in a different location and had to be cut and re-welded to match the Yaris location. The 2ZR-FAE exhaust manifold from the iM does not center in the Yaris exhaust hole so the manifold to main pipe connection is poor - a modified bolt-up method was used to clamp the two parts enough to stop exhaust leakage.

Intake
The Injen Cold Air Intake system for a Scion xD was installed, however, like the exhaust it requires modification. The shape of the 3rd gen. Yaris front-end means the CAI interferes with the LH headlight assembly and the bumper reinforcement. The CAI was cut and shortened to make a 'ram air intake' instead.

Ancillaries
Most of the ancillaries on the engine were retained and plugged in without modification. The A/C hoses from the Yaris were retained and matched the ports on the iM A/C compressor with a bit of finagling. Reinforced PVC hose was run between the vacuum pump and the brake booster as the 2ZR-FAE uses a separate vacuum pump; there is no OEM hose to use. Similarly, heater hose (to be replaced with PVC when canister is installed) was used to run the connection between the PCV port and the intake manifold.

Transmission
The C50 from the Yaris was used and generally unmodified - the Yaris back-up switch was removed and replaced with a iM style back-up switch to match the main engine wiring harness connector. Flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate from the 2ZR were already installed on the engine, so those were used in place of the Yaris setup.

Electrical & Wiring
The ECM was relocated from the RH side firewall to the LH side of the engine bay. Custom brackets were built to hold the Scion iM ECM in front of the battery location. The wiring was fished out of the Yaris harness and re-routed to the new location, and the iM engine harness is bent over the Valvematic box to mate at the new location. The engine to body connector was converted from 18-pin + 2 pin connector setup to match the Yaris' 26-pin connector. An additional connection to power the Valvematic system was also wired in. Modification to the fuel pump control system was made to run the fuel pump and an external cooling fan control setup was installed due to differences between the Yaris and iM ECM control methods.

Last edited by atomic_hoji; 05-27-2018 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 08-16-2017, 04:02 PM   #2
atomic_hoji
 
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Hmm.. YW newbe, follow-up post with 2ZR-FAE pic is MIA. Mod approval req'd? Not quite the same as SONTT.

BTW - If there's any former SONTT members out in YW say Hello!

-- Adam

edit: updated with eye candy; including that magic valvematic black box!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg yaris_2zr-cnk.jpg (131.7 KB, 340 views)
File Type: jpg yaris_2zr-flw.jpg (188.9 KB, 336 views)

Last edited by atomic_hoji; 08-18-2017 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:25 PM   #3
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Grats on the pre-order. The Yaris SE is very nearly the perfect little runabout.
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:43 PM   #4
atomic_hoji
 
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Post Section A - Wiring Info

Appreciate it, thanks!

I haven't come across a 3rd gen. swap yet or one that uses the 2ZR-FAE. So, I'm going to use this thread to document what I run into as I go in hopes of helping others that want to do it as well.

The 2ZR-FE swap is well documented on YW - and big thanks to those who have put so much good information up for the rest of us! The article on Subcompact Culture about Tom Armstrong's 2nd gen. sedan and the related YouTube video on TheSmokingTire channel is how I caught the bug.. Lurking YW sealed the deal.

One of the elegant parts to the 2ZR-FE swap for the 2nd gen. is using the Scion xD harness and ECM as it is plug and play with the 2nd gen. Yaris. I don't have the 2nd gen. EWDs (if/when I subscribe to TIS again I'll have to remember to get them..) but I imagine a lot of the 3rd gen. wiring is the same or similar, save for additions such as TSS-C, etc.. so it would likely still work or maybe require modification - probably less than using a Corolla or iM; wait, why am I doing this the hard way..? lol However, the Scion xD isn't as common as a Corolla or iM, has no -FAE option, and won't have the updated features of the newest models. Unfortunately, sourcing from a Corolla or iM isn't quite as plug and play - very similar in many ways as fortunately Toyota is standard (lazy? ) about wiring - but will open the option of Valvematic and the modern ECUs have the gadget support if you can get a hold of a new enough ECU. Working through and documenting the wiring differences will provide an alternative to get the 2ZR-F(A)E into our 3rd gen. Yaris'.

With rainy weather yesterday and today I've been doing a rundown on the ECM diagrams. I'm using a 2016 Scion iM 6MT engine, harness, and ECM. Because most of the engine related sensors etc.. are on the large, 135-pin connector and included direct in the engine harness, and I have the matched set I'm less worried about these; also, it's 135-pins and mildly intimidating! lol I did the rundown on the 60-pin connector for differences between the iM and the Yaris..

-- Adam


Updated (18-Nov-2017): keep wiring information for the swap in one post in the thread, clean up the post, and add some additional information.)
Updated (27-May-2018): modifications to wiring as installed with the engine running.
--

ECM Relocation
As the Scion iM has the ECM on the LH side of the engine bay, along where the main engine Junction Box (JB) is, we have to re-route the 60-pin engine to body connector from the Yaris location on the RH side of the firewall over to the LH side of the engine bay.

This is most easily done with the 1NZ engine, the cowl, etc.. is already removed so that the engine bay is most accessible. Drop the wiring loom and fish the wires for the 60-pin connector out all the way back to the LH side of the engine bay. Then tape and re-install the remaining wires back up under the cowl. I installed 1/2" wire loom over the ECM connector wires and ran the line down the firewall to the LH side of the brake booster, under the main engine JB, to the front of the battery tray, where I have the ECM installed. Here's a picture showing how I fished the wires out. The ECM with the connector is shown in the picture in post #01 of the overall installation.

wiring-separate-02.jpg

Modifications to ECM Connectors
The modern Toyota ECMs as used on both the Toyota Yaris and the Scion iM use two main connectors: a 135-pin ECM connector, called 'B38' in the iM EWD, is the main engine harness, which is on the engine and matches the iM ECM, so there's nothing to re-pin or worry about; and a 60-pin ECM connector, called 'A72' for Yaris or 'A31' for iM in respective EWDs, is the connection between the ECM and the engine room harness in the Yaris. There are 2 outputs on the 60-pin ECM connector that are 'dead-ended' due to differences between the iM and the Yaris.

Cooling Fan Control
45 - RFC - on the Scion iM outputs a variable signal from the ECM to a Cooling Fan ECU that controls the fan speed. The Yaris control, however, uses a simple relay system that provides grounds to terminals 07 - FANL - FAN NO.1 Relay, and 08 - FANH - FAN NO.2 Relay to select low or high fan speed. The Yaris connector has no wire for pin 45 of the 60-pin connector, so no wire was abandoned.

As I was not able to run a wire, I instead opted for an aftermarket fan controller. I used the Mishimoto Adjustable Fan Controller (MMFAN-CNTL-U18NPT); using NPT type sensor requires using an inline adapter versus the radiator probe - I used the Mishimoto Water Temperature Sensor Adapter - 30mm (MMWHS-30). Installation followed the instructions (ish). Since I pulled the fan control relays, I followed the install directions for drilling and screwing the controller and running the ground wire, however I instead used 12-16 AWG 1/4" male blade (aka: disconnect) terminals to create a jumper across the FAN NO. 1 relay (switch side) to power the fan, and from the FAN NO. 2 relay (switch side) to return the line to the fan controller. 12V ignition power was run to the FAN NO. 1 relay (coil side) via a 18-22 AWG 3/16" male blade terminal to provide the controller with power.

fan_temp_adapter.jpg
fan_temp_controller.jpg
fan_temp_jumper.jpg

Fuel Pump Control
21 - FPC - Similar to fan control, the Scion iM outputs a variable signal from the ECM to the Fuel Pump Control ECU that controls a variable speed fuel pump. The Yaris control is, again, a simple ground to enable a relay that provides power to the fuel pump once the engine is seen to be cranking. The Yaris connector does have a corresponding pin 21 for FPC, which using the modification below we will disconnect from the main engine JB connector and 'dead end' the wire with heat shrink; I've de-pinned the connector and kept the wire terminal intact to allow reversal if need be.

This is posted on page 3 of this thread - post #48 - but I've moved it in here for documentation purposes.

WARNING - this solution bypasses ECM control of the fuel pump! The factory ECM is designed to shut off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. If you do not, or are unable to, turn the ignition off in the event of an accident there is an increased risk of injury or death due to fuel system fire.

Intense, but seriously, it bypasses a safety feature - always be careful, and understand what you've changed and how it impacts the vehicle..

To jumper the fuel pump to the IGN signal remove the upper half of the main engine JB, disconnect connector 1E from the bottom side of the integrated relay assembly (skinny white rectangle), and pop out pin-11 (violet). Blank the pin as it will still have a live signal from the ECM with heat shrink and/or electrical tape. From a spare harness, I grabbed a matching terminal with a length of wire, inserted the new terminal into pin-11, and ran the loose end to a body ground connection. Alternatively you can cut the violet wire leaving a pigtail and solder/crimp to existing terminal, then run to body ground. What this does is put a permanent ground on the C/OPN relay coil which, since the relay coil is only provided power when the IGN relay is energized (key to ON), it won't have power when the car is off but once the key hits ON it will energize and start the fuel pump.

Note: I have the common relay block removed - you don't need to remove it, just unplug the connector from the bottom side once you're into the main engine JB and make your modifications.

fpc_wiring.jpg

--

Modification of Engine to Body Connectors
The connector(s) between the main engine harness and the body harness, 18-pin 'BA2' and 2-pin 'BA3' on iM and 26-pin 'CA3' on Yaris in the respective EWDs, supply power and signals from elsewhere in the vehicle to items on the engine. Left is the BA2 connector we are going from, the right is the CA3 connector we're switching to.

yaris_engine_connectors.jpg

Below is the re-map that I used to map wires from BA2 into an OEM 26-pin female connector (p/n: 90980-12771) to mate with the Yaris' CA3 male connector:
(shown as iM BA2 PIN# [terminal size] --> Yaris CA3 PIN# [terminal size])

01 [1.5] --> 12 [0.64II]
02 [1.5] --> 20 [0.64II]
03 [1.5] --> 14 [1.5]
04 [1.5] --> 01 [1.5]
05 [1.5] --> 01 [1.5]
06 [1.5] --> 15 [1.5]
07 [1.5] --> blank
08 [n/a on ALL]
09 [0.64II] --> 'CA4' 04 - provide shielding for O2 sensor
10 [0.64II] --> 25 [0.64II]
11 [0.64II] --> 25 [0.64II]
12 [1.5] --> 19 [0.64II]
13 [n/a on MT]
14 [0.64II] --> 22 [0.64II]
15 [0.64II] --> 08 [0.64II]
16 [0.64II] --> 24 [0.64II]
17 [0.64II] --> 02 [0.64II]
18 [1.5] --> 15 [1.5]

and BA3 --> CA3
01 [1.5] --> 26 [1.5]
02 [1.5] --> new connector

There are a few differences to note. First, there are a few wires that need to be re-terminated to smaller size wire terminals - the BA2 connector uses more of the larger, 1.5 size terminals. You can order the correct sized open barrel terminals and re-terminate the wire or find a spare harness at a wrecker, cut and de-pin a connector to create 'pigtails' to use. I bought some open barrel terminals, but found the small sizes are so delicate that I was mangling more than I had success with. Ultimately I found a wrecker about an hour drive away, chopped and pulled a large section of engine bay wire harness from a 2007 Toyota Yaris hatchback, paid my cash, and have a number of spare OEM connectors and wire pigtails now.

Second, there are some differences in how wires are used on the iM engine harness versus supply from the Yaris side body harness. These are as follows:

The Yaris uses 1 power supply wire that is shared by both the injectors and the ignition coils, where-as the iM has separate supply wires, BA2-04 and -05 respectively. I have 'Y' or 'T' connected these two wires into one to map to CA3-01. As both use the same resistance injectors and ignition coils I'm making the leap of faith that the supply will be sufficient for both on the iM engine harness.

The MAF B+ line is different between the two harnesses - the Yaris runs direct from the main engine JB to the MAF, where-as the iM expects a power line on the BA2 connector.
BA2-06 is Y/T connected with BA2-18 to map to CA3-15 to receive power.

BA2-07 is a ground to the engine block, however CA3 uses fewer ground connections, to the pin is folded back into the wire loom and heat shrinked.

BA2-09 is for the canister module ground, however the Yaris uses a local ground connection on the canister module, so it isn't needed for the same purpose. As for BA2-07 the Yaris needs fewer grounds on CA3, however the connector CA4 is the connector from the engine harness to the body harness for the O2 sensor, which needs a shielding wire (ground), so I've instead run this to CA4-04 for this purpose.

As for injectors and ignition above, the Yaris has only a single supply for the back-up switch and Generator IG lines, where-as the iM uses separate wires. These are similarly Y/T connected to map to CA3-25.

A new 30A fused wire from the battery was run for the Valvematic power supply (BA3-02) using a new, 2-pin male + female connector combo. I picked up a 5 pack of aftermarket connectors that are a match for the OEM cooling fan power connector through an online order. The terminals are a more manageable size than the connectors, so it was pretty straight forward to crimp the wires and install the sealed terminals into the new connector.

Transmission Back-up Switch
A simple change that was made was to remove the Yaris back-up switch which uses a different connector and install a iM style back-up switch in place. The threads are the same, so it is literally a matter of removing the old and installing the new. When the transmission is mated to the 2ZR the connector is routed right into place where the new switch sits.

trans_busw.jpg

Last edited by atomic_hoji; 05-27-2018 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Update with new wiring info
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Old 08-18-2017, 02:17 PM   #5
deng
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I love how much research your putting in to your swap. Only 3 posts, no questions, or bs, straight to the point.

Respect.
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:44 PM   #6
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Thanks for the props, deng.

Plan is to be have these differences documented and addressed ahead of time so when I'm ready to swap it goes in smooth - don't want an on-going, troubleshooting nightmare with my reliable set of wheels. Hell, if I get it all correct and it goes in smooth maybe it'll encourage others to follow suit with the -FAE.

With more rain today interfering with my wood shed building plan I decided to rundown the 135-pin ECM connector for a bit this afternoon instead - garage does smell great with the stacked spruce lumber.. lol

Found P/N: 82121-12U30 is for the 2016 Scion iM MT if you need to buy a new, complete harness ($$$). The same part number also applies for the 2017 Corolla iM MT. So if you're searching the wreckers either year will work, but be aware of (or prepared to repair) wiring harness butchering! Also, if you have a newer model Yaris the 2017 ECM will support the TSS-C functions; I will give TSS-C up for this swap using the 2016 ECM.

Never-the-less, the important part: for the 135-pin ECM connector, which is integrated into the engine harness, I tracked all wires by colour and connector and everything from the ECM pinned out on the 135-pin connector is on the engine harness proper (sensors, MAF, cam control, etc..) or goes to the vehicle via the 2 interface connectors (18-pin + 2-pin), respectively. Unfortunately, my meter leads are too fat to fit in the 135-pin connector so I wasn't able to continuity test each wire to verify, but all the colours jived at the appropriate connectors.

Still working to map those 2 connectors to the respective connector on the Yaris, but at a glance it should be do-able.

Quick note for my case: my engine harness was 95% complete from the wrecker - I got pretty lucky that they disconnected most connectors instead of butchering the wiring. Unfortunately, they did chop the wires right at the harness that run to the O2 sensor. On the iM this is a straight wire run, however on the Yaris the wiring to the O2 sensor goes via a connector at the engine room JB. I'll have to do a repair and pin them into the Yaris connector to pick-up the Yaris' O2 sensor. Also had a good bit of news about my engine pull via the CarProof report. Seems the car was at the dealership for service at 101 kms, then 6 weeks later was written off in a rear-end accident. I figure, assuming average driving, there can't be more than 2000 kms on it. Feel bad about the poor luck of the person who purchased it, but am happy to score a seriously low mileage unit!

-- Adam
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:17 PM   #7
atomic_hoji
 
Drives: 2018 Yaris SE 5MT
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Been busy on a plant equipment shutdown crew, then started a new job a couple weeks ago, but as noted above new Yaris arrived and bits ordered have been showing up over the past few weeks so thought I'd put in a quick update.

Parts collection is on-going, but have the below shopping list complete:
  • 2ZR-FAE motor w/manifolds; flywheel, clutch & pressure plate; throttle body; water pump; alternator; and starter included.
  • A/C compressor
  • ECM and complete engine wire harness (need O2 repair)
  • Injen CAI w/MAF sensor

Still need to find:
  • Axle-back exhaust for 2.25" exhaust
  • Mid-pipe (direct fit catalytic w/resonator)
  • Passenger side engine mount (frame & engine) w/hardware
  • Wiring terminals and connectors

Started opening packages and found that my spangly new Toyota connectors so I can change the Scion iM connector to mate do not come with terminals Literally just the plastic housing - all the aftermarket connectors I've bought for wiring lights or other ancillaries have always come with terminals and grommets (if used)! If anyone out there has a good source for terminals I'd appreciate a heads up!

With cold weather settling in I have some outdoor projects to complete before we get winter settling in. But hoping with a few more internet purchases I'll soon have her ready to roll into the garage to start the swap!

-- Adam

Last edited by atomic_hoji; 11-18-2017 at 10:21 PM. Reason: updated shopping list
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:00 PM   #8
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Awesome thread. Fwiw I've used a reman'd eBay a/c compressor and for the past 20k I'm I've put on it since the swap it has given me no issues.

Good luck with the wiring, an fae would be great
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:18 PM   #9
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Old 11-07-2017, 01:05 PM   #10
CrankyOldMan
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Wow, that's an awesome score on your engine! My 2ZR-FE only had 3700 miles on it before the vehicle was rolled. It sat in the warehouse for almost 7 years as well, but fired right up and runs like a champ all day long!

Which terminals do you need? I've got a few bins of spaghetti wire harness mess that could be used for pigtails if I have the right ones. You'd be hard pressed to find the actual terminals in loose/bulk packaging and the OEM crimp tool probably costs $500 or more. Toyota isn't nearly as open with their connector sourcing as some of the USDM companies are, resulting in high costs or outright zero availability of them.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:27 PM   #11
atomic_hoji
 
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Hey, thanks for the support guys.

Winter decided to show-up with gusto last night.. Fortunately, I picked up a set of 172/65R15 Michelin X-Ice XI3s (which feel like fat little bicycle tires, I laughed when I got home from work and saw they had been delivered. Honestly, being used to running 33"+ tires on my trucks they're hilarious, but oh so much easier on the back to install! ). Unfortunately, they weren't actually on the car this morning when they'd have been handy, so that was this evenings task.

But anywho, with respect to the 2ZR..

I was able to get a line on a used A/C compressor from another 2ZR vehicle; Corolla or Matrix I think the guy said. It fits, has a 6-rib pulley, and sounds like tmontague's experience shows good luck, so I'll run with it..

Had a disappointing follow-up email about the Magnaflow midpipe though. Seems there's no ETA from Magnaflow for stock, so the order is on hold. Means back to looking for an exhaust setup. Debating waiting until Black Friday sales in a couple of weeks and having something shipped to Port Huron, then make a trip down.

Appreciate the heads up Cranky re: wiring. I found that Ballenger Motorsports carries some of the Sumitomo line of wire terminals that have equivalent Toyota part numbers. I assume they crimp on normally?! To document for those running into wiring in future, I found the following using the EWDs for each vehicle and the Toyota Wire Harness Repair Manual.

. I need to re-pin the main connector between the engine harness and the body (18-pin BA2 and 2-pin BA3 from the 2016 Scion iM MT wire harness, and 26-pin CA3 on the 2018 Yaris harness).
[BA2: 90980-12745]
Toyota: 82998-24290 --> Sumitomo TS F025 (08)
Toyota: 82998-24350 --> Sumitomo TS F060 (10)
[BA3: 90980-10916]
Toyota: 82998-12380 --> Sumitomo TS F187 (02)
** have to map to Sumitomo TS F060 as connector CA3 doesn't use the larger pins.

[CA3: 90980-12771]
Toyota: 82998-24290 --> Sumitomo TS F025 (22)
Toyota: 82998-24350 --> Sumitomo TS F060 (04)
** -12771 isn't listed in the version of the repair manual I have, but I matched the sizes found on BA2; number of pins overall and of each type differs from BA2.

. Need to run a line for the cooling fan CPU from JB to CPU, and power from CPU to fan.
[A24: 90980-10841]
Toyota: ???
[z1: 90980-10928]
Toyota: ???

. Need to repair 4 wires at harness to CA4 for exhaust O2 sensor.
[CA4: 90980–12639]
Toyota: 82998-24290 --> Sumitomo TS F025 (16)
Toyota: 82998-12340 --> Sumitomo TS F090 (04)

I guess that's the long version... Short answer is some wires with female terminals from an engine to body connector and what seem to be larger ones to populate the cooling fan connectors; haven't found the type of terminal yet. I'll get pictures when I'm in the garage this weekend and post them up and see if I can add a picture/description for each of the terminal types.

Take care.
-- Adam
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Wow, that's an awesome score on your engine! My 2ZR-FE only had 3700 miles on it before the vehicle was rolled. It sat in the warehouse for almost 7 years as well, but fired right up and runs like a champ all day long!

...
Man, you made a pretty good score there as well! Good to know there's few to no worries about time sitting on a shelf at the wreckers

Ya, I got pretty lucky, especially that they had all the matching parts, excepting the A/C compressor. I just happened to find it via car-part.com when looking around for a low mileage 2ZR-FE and debating the swap; decided to commit to the swap with -FAE and jumped on it! Once I picked it up and had the VIN I was able to get the CarProof report so I'd have something to verify / estimate the mileage, as if I recall the mileage was not listed in the ad, but they said it was very low. We'll see if my luck holds on with the rest of the project..

-- Adam
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Old 11-12-2017, 04:27 PM   #13
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For the main engine wiring harness connector this is what I'm trying to change. I should note that, like a lot of things I'm running into, I'm doing this to make the swap as elegant a solution as possible; i.e. plug 'n play as much as is reasonable. If you are so inclined you could always cut the 1NZ harness and retrieve 'pigtails' with the needed terminals - I just want to pull the 1NZ complete and unmodified, and leave an unmolested body harness; I don't intend to swap back to the 1NZ, but you never know what may come up.

The below pictures demonstrate the conversion that needs to happen and the terminals involved. LHS is the female BA2 connector on my 2ZR harness, RHS is the female CA3 to match the Yaris. I popped one of the larger terminals, but my camera just can't take a picture that close up. The 2 types of terminals are shown in the Wire Harness Repair Manual diagrams.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg yaris_engine_connectors.jpg (113.5 KB, 210 views)
File Type: jpg wire_terminal-24290.jpg (36.7 KB, 210 views)
File Type: jpg wire_terminal-24350.jpg (33.3 KB, 210 views)
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Old 11-16-2017, 10:12 AM   #14
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
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The smaller terminals can be removed with a paperclip or sewing needle. Make sure the retention lock is disengaged, poke the needle into the smile-shaped hole, gently pry up/down while pulling on the wire. Shouldn't take any real force to extract them.

What wires/signals don't match up, if any?
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Old 11-18-2017, 09:22 PM   #15
atomic_hoji
 
Drives: 2018 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kincardine, ON, Canada
Posts: 161
^ Good tip, thanks Cranky!

I did buy a $10 set of connector tools - they so far work 'so-so' Will try your technique as well.

So, after finally mapping everything out, it's actually not as terrible as I thought it might be; guess it makes sense that if on one vehicle you need an 18awg wire, it'll likely be the same size wire for the same function on the other vehicle..

I updated post #4 with the complete map (just pin numbers and terminal sizes; could add functions if there's interest, but got really busy and cluttered when I started putting it in..) The ones that don't match are:
(pin# [terminal size] --> pin# [terminal size] for function)

01 [1.5] --> 12 [0.64II] for Combo. Meter CHG- -> Generator L
02 [1.5] --> 20 [0.64II] for 5A ICS/ALT-S Fuse -> Generator S
07 [1.5] --> 22 [0.64II] for Cruise ECC; DLC3 SG -> Ground
12 [1.5] --> 19 [0.64II] for Brake Actuator EXI3 -> Back-Up Light Sw.

pin 07 --> pin 22 could actually work if I tie pin 07 & pin 14 together and use the pin 14 terminal to match the corresponding size on the male (Yaris) side.

And I made an executive decision to leave the 2-pin connector stuff separate and just completely re-connector it, instead of dorking around trying to find the associated 4.8 size terminals - this also gives me a 1.5 size location to run the MAF B+ line, which is different between the two vehicles.

I keep trying to avoid modification of the existing harness as much as possible, but it is creating more of a chore; there's something to be said for just getting an aftermarket connector with all the associated parts and just creating a new connection instead of mucking about.
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Old 11-23-2017, 09:38 PM   #16
atomic_hoji
 
Drives: 2018 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kincardine, ON, Canada
Posts: 161
Quick update: parts collections is slower than I'd hoped due to unavailability of the exhaust, as well as delays on the order for engine mounts and other misc. parts. Good news is both orders should be shipped next week. Also had an offer from a wheeling buddy to pillage the wiring harness from a parked 4Runner to see if I can find the connectors and terminals I need; I'll check into that this weekend.

With respect to the swap, I have a plan.

Time is a bit of a premium at the moment since I'm currently on the first 6 month portion of training for my new job and have regular progress tests I have to study for. BUT, we break for the Christmas holidays, so I will have a 10 day stretch over the weekend before Christmas until New Years off. I figure that should give me enough time to finish outdoor clean-up before snow sets in, get the garage clear, and collect the remaining parts. Then I'll roll the Yaris into the garage for the break, and roll her out in 2018 a new machine.

Once into the teardown and install I can get some pictures and update the thread with some (hopefully) useful solutions. The wait is killing me.. lol

-- Adam
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Old 01-07-2018, 03:09 PM   #17
atomic_hoji
 
Drives: 2018 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kincardine, ON, Canada
Posts: 161
Hope everyone had a great holiday and happy new year!

Long time since last update, but progress, slowly but surely, 'ish - mostly busy. Had a good holiday, lots of visits, had friends we don't see stay extra time from the New Year's weekend as well. Also had another progress test at work for training, so that took some important time; final course this month, then the big exam in February.

Got the 1NZ disconnected and pulled successfully. Things I'd do differently (i) get a cheap digital camera to document! The 2ZR swap is already documented well in other threads, but for my own use it'd be handy. I do have a cell phone camera, but between filthy hands and just forgetting about it as I got busy I didn't grab enough (many at all) pictures.. (ii) follow the goddamn instructions! I hadn't removed the front bumper, rad, etc.. assembly as I figured using an overheard 1 ton hoist I could pop it up and out.. maybe could have, but I made a whoops with my rigging and found the hard way there's not much space in the engine bay - found I had it all nicely setup, but engine mount was caught up, when it came free the transmission side dropped and the whole thing jump and banged around; nothing appears damaged on the Yaris, and on me it was mostly my pride and underoos - scrape and bruise will heal. Did scare the bejesus out of myself though..

Never-the-less, picture proof of progress: a naked engine bay and the clean looking little 1NZ with C50 on the floor.

-- Adam
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File Type: jpg yaris-1NZ-out.jpg (218.4 KB, 161 views)
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Old 01-07-2018, 03:23 PM   #18
atomic_hoji
 
Drives: 2018 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kincardine, ON, Canada
Posts: 161
^^^ is how she's been for a bit over a week now. When I went out 23/24-Dec the garage was a balmy 8 C, with the cold snap lately it's about 2 C and is a bit miserable on the fingers and toes being out there. However, even in light of the chill, I've started into the wiring changes today, separating the line to the ECU from the body so it can be relocated to the main JB/battery area.

Good news, it does work!

Pretty straight forward, but for someone following as reference I did the following: dropped the wiring plastic clips to get it free. Then as I removed the tape from the wire bunch gently separated the wires for the ECU connector from the rest of the body harness and reapplied tape as I went to avoid it becoming a loose mess. Only tools were a sharp knife, pliers for the clips, and electrical tape. Obvious note: be careful what you cut!

The main body wiring will get the plastic clips reattached and put back into it's stock position up under the metal lip you can see in the pictures.

I was able to run the ECU wires all the way back to where they come out of the hard plastic unit by the brake booster. This should give enough to run the connector to the ECU if I mount it at the main JB/relay box. The ECU wiring will get bunched and a few pieces of tape and then some plastic wiring loom over it for protection in the engine bay. If I do need to run it back to the stock location I will just run it alongside and retape it to the main body wire bunch.

-- Adam
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File Type: jpg wiring-separate-02.jpg (222.6 KB, 159 views)
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