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06-30-2015, 10:43 AM | #1 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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dropping the subframe
Hey guys i'm curious as to how exactly you go about dropping the subframe from those of you that are familiar doing it.
Obviously all of the bolts found underneath it have to be removed but what other not so obvious steps are needed to be taken? Does the steering need to be diconnected and if so what part of it, the joint found just above the rack in the engine bay? Thanks |
06-30-2015, 01:57 PM | #2 | |
Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Debary, FL
Posts: 1,953
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Quote:
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2005-2008 SCCA Solo BS National Champion 2017-2018 SCCA H Prod National Champion |
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06-30-2015, 02:41 PM | #3 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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So you are essentially diconnecting the steering joint and the bolts underneath the subframe and it will drop down. (obviously need to remove the ball joints or control arms)
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06-30-2015, 02:50 PM | #4 | |
Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Debary, FL
Posts: 1,953
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Quote:
I just pull it all at once.
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2005-2008 SCCA Solo BS National Champion 2017-2018 SCCA H Prod National Champion |
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06-30-2015, 03:16 PM | #5 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Great, thanks for the info. Nice pic BTW, that's some serious work
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05-31-2017, 09:53 AM | #6 |
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Drives: AW11, NCP91, Old Motorcycles Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 375
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I don't mean to bring back a 2 year old thread but I'm going to be replacing my subframe in the next few weeks and wouldn't mind some pointers with removing the old one. Just to make sure I'm understanding this correctly (my car is in storage so I can't take a look until the weekend), I disconnect the column from the rack from the inside of the car?
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06-01-2017, 12:25 PM | #7 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Correct. There's a plastic shroud over the joint area, partially covered by the carpet. I would recommend marking the joint before taking it apart as it's hard to get under the dash to access it. You should also secure the steering wheel with the seatbelt to prevent the clockspring from being damaged if the steering wheel rotates while the rack is disconnected.
Are you planning to replace the control arms as well or just the subframe? |
06-01-2017, 12:35 PM | #8 |
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Drives: AW11, NCP91, Old Motorcycles Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 375
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Thanks cranky, hoping to tackle this soon. Highway construction caused some damage to the subframe and driver's side control arm. I figure while I have the car apart I would just replace the control arms and the tie rods. Picked up a set of Moog control arms and inner and outer tie rod ends. Have to replace bits of the radiator support and my headlights as well. This was supposed to be money going towards a 2zr
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06-01-2017, 05:15 PM | #9 |
Drives: Yaris 06 - 5dr hatchback Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Birmingham, UK
Posts: 390
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My commiserations mate. Just had to do some major work on mine after a nasty slip. Look on the bright side, being a southern vehicle the rust probably won't be all that bad. I have no clue in hell how i would get the sub frame or control arms out of my car with all the salt they put on the roads here in England. Except maybe a cutting torch.
Let us know how you get on!
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- Yaris 2006, 1.0, 5 door hatchback "Betty" - 240,000 miles UK to Nordkapp in a Yaris
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06-01-2017, 11:38 PM | #10 |
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Drives: AW11, NCP91, Old Motorcycles Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 375
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Thanks zoidberg, saw your thread about Betty a few days ago. Turned out great! I'm in the parts gathering phase, going to overhaul the entire chassis while I'm at it so that I know I have a solid platform for when I swap the motor later on. After the accident my girlfriend told me to retire the "little car" but the little bugger's been with me since 06 so it has seniority and is going nowhere anytime soon haha!
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06-02-2017, 01:21 AM | #11 |
Drives: Yaris 06 - 5dr hatchback Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Birmingham, UK
Posts: 390
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How many miles have you got on your car? What parts are you planning to replace besides the damaged subframe and radiator support?
Are you going aftermarket or staying OEM? You'll have to show us some before and after pictures to see how you've done. These are tough little cars. Plenty of the original crop of 1999 mark 1 Yaris's are still on the road here in the UK even though they are worthless and the rust here is terrible. Your's may well last another 20 years in your neck of the woods. I think mine will last another 8 or 9 years at this rate. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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- Yaris 2006, 1.0, 5 door hatchback "Betty" - 240,000 miles UK to Nordkapp in a Yaris
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06-02-2017, 08:38 AM | #12 |
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Drives: AW11, NCP91, Old Motorcycles Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 375
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I'm at about 130k or so on the car. Swapping inner and outer tie rods, control arms, bushings, both headlights, and I need a new bumper. I went aftermarket on most of the suspension parts, had I known the cost difference was so small I would have gone OEM on everything. Also need to swap my rear torsion beam at some point (has a slight bend that's throwing me off about a degree into negative camber land...also due to highway construction/unavoidable pot hole) but I'll start with the front. I do a lot of highway driving to and from work so I want the car structurally sound again. I'll start a build thread once the work begins.
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06-02-2017, 02:25 PM | #13 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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If you have ABS, you need to disconnect the ABS sensors from the hubs. I recall there being some precautions in the repair manual but I don't have them at my fingertips.
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06-02-2017, 03:15 PM | #14 |
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Drives: AW11, NCP91, Old Motorcycles Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 375
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Thanks for the heads up, have a non-abs car. If you guys come up with any other little things of concern, I'm all ears :) thanks for the help/advice
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06-02-2017, 05:54 PM | #15 |
Drives: Yaris 06 - 5dr hatchback Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Birmingham, UK
Posts: 390
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Sounds like a big project dude. A lot of my bushes are looking perished, but they are ok for the moment. No excessive movement in anything. I think they might well last another few years yet. If i had to replace my front control arms, stabiliser links or tie rods i think i would be tempted to do a total rebuild to save me the hassle later on.
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- Yaris 2006, 1.0, 5 door hatchback "Betty" - 240,000 miles UK to Nordkapp in a Yaris
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06-02-2017, 09:35 PM | #16 |
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Drives: AW11, NCP91, Old Motorcycles Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 375
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Shouldn't be too bad, luckily the control arms have the bushings pre-installed (same with the OEM ones which I should have bought...) so it's really just unbolt the mangled bits and bolt in the replacements. Wondering now if I should just do the wheel bearings while I have everything apart...
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06-03-2017, 09:22 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2007 2-door hatchback Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: USAnotCA
Posts: 750
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Full corner suspension parts replacement
Doing struts and front ball joints on a 91 Corolla conjured the concept of full-corner replacement due to difficulty of getting to things to replace separately. (That is, consider adding wheel bearings, drive shafts, strut mounts and maybe brake calipers/rotors to that first job.) Would be nice if Rockauto or Toyota, etc. offered a full-corner kit.
(I live where rust kills the car, and complicates most repairs.) |
06-04-2017, 01:32 PM | #18 |
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Drives: AW11, NCP91, Old Motorcycles Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 375
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Thanks for all the input everyone, luckily I have no snow here and rust isn't usually a problem :) I'm good on brakes as I did them recently before the accident. I'll likely do the wheel bearings, my axles looked good when I was under the car recently on the first attempt at dropping the sub frame.
Any specific way to tie the steering wheel with the seat belt? It's just to keep it from turning while removing the subframe, correct? |
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