Prospective new (used) owner here with a few questions...

[chocolab]

Hey everyone, first post. Registered with another user name a few weeks ago but never got my registration email so couldn't post! Made this new one with another email and it worked this time. Oh well.

Anyway, I'm thinking about buying a used Yaris LB, manual transmission, probably a 2007-2009 or so. I've read many posts and threads on here, especially the reliability one and MPG ones, but still have a few questions if you don't mind. :)

What seem to be the trouble spots on these cars? I know they are very reliable overall and I love that they have a timing chain. But are there any common spots to look for? For instance, I've always driven older BMWs and the cooling system (lots of plastic, ugh) and window regulators are known problem areas.

Related, is there a mileage where you'd be hesitant to buy one? I'm not scared of higher-mileage cars, as I've always driven my cars up over 100k miles, but a big reason I'm wanting a Yaris is for reliability. I'm on the highway in the middle of nowhere by myself a lot so this is a big deal to me. Have you guys noticed a certain mileage range where certain typical things wear out and need replacing?

For those of you who work on your cars, is it hard on the Yaris? I don't think so, but you never know. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I did some fairly extensive work on my BMW thanks to internet boards like this one. I do love how the Yaris has such a tiny hood and you can practically reach everything just standing in front of it. :)

Any other advice or things for a newbie to look for?

Thanks a lot for any replies. Really like the board!

[goliath1812]

I'm in the same boat. I have a 2007 sedan with just over 100,000 miles, but I'm looking for another LB, same year range. I'm trying to find one with 60,000 miles or less, but they seem to run forever!
The only fairly common issue that I know of for that year range is the water pump. Bad water pumps will start to spray the underside of the hood with coolant. Not sure if the problem is the Toyota w/p, or the pink long life coolant they use. I replaced mine at around 40,000 miles, switched to Pre stone pre diluted, haven't had a problem since.

Other than that, great little cars, fairly easy to work on. Following advice from this board, I've learned how to change the w/p, struts, shocks, springs, instal CAI, short shift kit, shifter bushings, and a few other things. I'd never worked on cars much before this one other than oil changes.

Good luck with your purchase!

[CrankyOldMan]

I bought my '09 manual hatch with about 19k miles on it, and just went over 36k. No issues to report so far. I've done a few modifications under the hood, and it's been tolerable to work with--way better than the wife's '98 Sienna minivan.

I don't have much else to comment on about reliability, but there are some recommended modifications to improve your enjoyment of the vehicle:
* Horn upgrade: get a twin horn replacement, or go crazy with some air horns. The stock horn is useless on the freeway.
* Rear torsion bar: dramatically reduces body roll in corners and buffeting on the freeway.

Some more advanced/performance oriented mods that are fairly inexpensive:
* Lowering springs: decreases wheel gap (cosmetic) and improves handling in corners.
* Engine bay short shift kit: makes the fore/aft throw much shorter, making it easier to reach 5th gear; decreases shift time
* Drop-in air filter: K&N, or whatever your favorite brand is. The upper charcoal filter is a CARB/emissions thing, but it does impart some air restriction. *wink wink*
* Crank pulley: lightweight crank pulleys decrease parasitic HP loss in the drivetrain, improving acceleration and rev response.
* Exhaust: exhaust headers, mid-pipes, axle-back kits are now pretty easy to find, and add sound and/or power improvements.
* Drivetrain: lightweight flywheels, performance clutches, lightweight wheels, etc. are all fairly easy to get and install or have installed.

Extreme performance modifications (not likely to apply for a long range commuter):
* Forced induction: not for the faint of heart or empty of wallet. Turbos and supercharger kits are available.
* Internals: adding power over about 140 HP seems to be the breaking point for this engine. Any ambitions of higher power should include a complete internal strengthening: rods, pistons, sleeves, crank.
* Fuel management: Almost a necessity with any F/I setup, but could be added prior to try and squeeze out what little HP Toyota couldn't.
* Transmission modification: gear swaps, final drive swaps, 5- to 6- speed conversion have all been done to some extent. Again, not for those who aren't endowed with a workshop or the funds to outsource.
* Misc: body bracing, roll cages, carbon fiber hood/hatch, body kits, spoilers, coil-overs, valves, cams, and whatnot.

[chocolab]

Thanks for the replies, guys. :)

I'm not much on the mods -- everything on my other car was just replacing basic cooling system items with OEM -- but I had read what goliath said about the water pump in some other threads... Amazing to me that the WP in this car gives you some warning before it's useless! In the BMW, if your waterpump fails, it's usually sudden and in most cases you will blow your engine if you don't shut the car off immediately... As in, driving even another mile or so can cause a warped head. Which isn't always possible on a busy freeway or stopped in rush hour traffic.

The only Yaris I've test driven (only MT I could find) had 110,000 on it already but was amazingly clean on the inside. Is this a complete fluke or are the interior materials -- seats, dash, etc -- pretty durable? I actually thought about buying the car because it was from a Toyota dealership and they'd replaced the WP and alternator, so it probably would've been good for another 75k at least, but their asking price was a little high and it wasn't the color I really want.

I sort of considered an Echo, but I like the way the Yaris looks much better. I genuinely like the hatchback, and prefer it to the 2012 re-make.

Would love to hear from more people if they care to chime in. :)

[Hamster]

Well, unfortunately, the interior of the car is cheap plastic which can scuff a little bit if you're not being careful. But after all, it's an entry-level subcompact, so you can't expect a luxury car interior. The carpet in my car seems to stay clean with just a simple vacuuming, no matter how much dirt I track in (but I have rubber floor mats, so that makes a difference). The interior of my car still looks brand new. But the only person who rides in my car is me, and I never eat or drink in the car. It could be that the Yaris you test drove was owned by someone like me, who was very careful. As long as you don't eat or drink in the car, and you take precautions so as not to scratch the interior panels, it's pretty much impossible for the interior to look worn or dirty. Oh, and the seats do hold up very well.

My car hasn't given me any trouble, but then again, I've only got just under 12,000 on my car. Save for the oil changes, which I do myself, my car has never needed to be serviced for any reason. These cars are so simple that there's not a whole lot that can go wrong with them. Bimmers, on the other hand, have all sorts of electronics that can go wrong, so I can see where you're coming from and why you're concerned about reliability. But if you get a Yaris, I can assure you, all you need to do is drive and have fun. No need to worry all the time about expensive repairs.

[09sedan]

common problems on 2007/early 2008 yaris vehicles:

voltage regulator corrosion in the alternator = requires a new alternator or you can follow CTScott's DIY on how to replace it yourself..

rear ABS harnesses corrode, seem to have been fixed in late 08/ early 09 models.

water pump going bad on pre 2008/9 engines.

very minor cases of oil leaking from #1 cylinder from the head gasket.. reported various years up to 2010 cars... but very rare occurrences, verify by checking the far left cylinder on the side of the engine facing towards the firewall.

[thebarber]

Issues are relatively minor....mainly water pump....but no one I know locally has had the issue.

Assuming you're well out of the snow belt you shouldn't have any issues loosening bolts after years of service (that said, I DID just do a spring/shock install on an 06 yaris with 200+km on it and still got everything loose after a good soak with penetrating lube and an impact gun)

I'd but one with up to 100k miles on it and still expect many years of service....

[chocolab]

Originally Posted by 09sedan

common problems on 2007/early 2008 yaris vehicles:

voltage regulator corrosion in the alternator = requires a new alternator or you can follow CTScott's DIY on how to replace it yourself..

rear ABS harnesses corrode, seem to have been fixed in late 08/ early 09 models.

water pump going bad on pre 2008/9 engines.

very minor cases of oil leaking from #1 cylinder from the head gasket.. reported various years up to 2010 cars... but very rare occurrences, verify by checking the far left cylinder on the side of the engine facing towards the firewall.

Thank you... I'll check that when I look at one.

Is the water pump expensive to fix normally? I haven't gotten into the exact how-to DIY yet. But I do know a very good, inexpensive mechanic just down the street. He wouldn't work on my previous cars, but he specializes in Toyotas.

Thanks to everyone!