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Old 11-03-2008, 03:57 PM   #1
gid
 
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Question 5w-20 motor oil : who's using it ? ...

What brand ? Synthetic or conventional ( regular ) ? Increase in mileage ? More power ? More engine noise ( chain , valves ) than when using the 5w-30 ? THANKS

Last edited by gid; 11-03-2008 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 11-03-2008, 04:05 PM   #2
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I would use a synthetic oil with 5w-20. Usually synthetic protects just as much as the next highest step up of organic oil while giving you the benifits of a lower viscocity such as increased gas milage.

My brothers toyota had same amount of engine noise at idle as mine. And when he put in amsoil high performance oil. He said his car never has idled smoother. All the sound went away. And it feels like the car has more power on the freeway. It could all be in his head but i can say it does idle very smooth and its quite as a mouse on idle. I am very anxiouse to do the same to my car soon as the engine is broken in in a few more miles.
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Old 03-21-2009, 07:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YarisSedan View Post
I would use a synthetic oil with 5w-20. Usually synthetic protects just as much as the next highest step up of organic oil while giving you the benifits of a lower viscocity such as increased gas milage.

My brothers toyota had same amount of engine noise at idle as mine. And when he put in amsoil high performance oil. He said his car never has idled smoother. All the sound went away. And it feels like the car has more power on the freeway. It could all be in his head but i can say it does idle very smooth and its quite as a mouse on idle. I am very anxiouse to do the same to my car soon as the engine is broken in in a few more miles.
I see that Advance auto parts has Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic motor oil. The price is good...but is the oil any good?

Has anyone tried this particular oil?
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Old 11-03-2008, 04:19 PM   #4
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why 5w-20? 20 offers less heat resistance.
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Old 11-03-2008, 04:34 PM   #5
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for colder starts , etc.

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Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
why 5w-20? 20 offers less heat resistance.
PENNZOIL Platinum 5w-20 full synthetic motor oil has has been getting very good Used Oil Analysises at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=3&page=1 , viscosity numbers ( friction = heat ) have been quite good . Go to other pages for PLATINUM 5w-20 write ups .
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Old 11-03-2008, 04:58 PM   #6
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5-30 here, full synthetic.

Works out because my wife's car takes 6 quarts for an oil change and the yaris takes 4. The extra quart I end up with (when buying 5 quart jugs) goes in her car.
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Old 11-04-2008, 01:03 PM   #7
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why 5w-20? 20 offers less heat resistance.
A lot of people that don't understand how oil works think this.

Thinner oil means faster circulation at start up. Faster circulation to the farthest reaches of an engine means less wear. And it is at start up that 90% of engine wear happens. At full operational speeds, the protection that w20 provides is nearly identical to most 30 weights.
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Old 11-04-2008, 01:10 PM   #8
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+1

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Originally Posted by SilverGlow View Post
A lot of people that don't understand how oil works think this.

Thinner oil means faster circulation at start up. Faster circulation to the farthest reaches of an engine means less wear. And it is at start up that 90% of engine wear happens. At full operational speeds, the protection that w20 provides is nearly identical to most 30 weights.
.
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Old 11-04-2008, 01:44 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by SilverGlow View Post
A lot of people that don't understand how oil works think this.

Thinner oil means faster circulation at start up. Faster circulation to the farthest reaches of an engine means less wear. And it is at start up that 90% of engine wear happens. At full operational speeds, the protection that w20 provides is nearly identical to most 30 weights.
This is an oversimplification on your part. The oil must provide adequate viscosity for the running clearance of the engine design - most critical are the journal clearance and piston to wall clearance. If you run an inadequate viscosity you will easily have catastrophic engine failure. As for margin lube contact wear in cam lobe-to-tappet face, piston top-to- bore, crank flange to journal thrust cap, and unfortunately add for our engines; timing chain sprocket to guide and chain to sprocket. Proper lubrication here relies all on the polar nature of the base oil (most popular syn are NOT polar) and the metal salt extreme pressure additives in the oil. Without them you WILL have premature wear no matter how good your base oil is (Good as in Motul, Redline, Fuchs, ELF NOT Mobil, Pennzoil, BP!) If toyota specs 30w and 20W they are really flirting with disaster. The motor MUST be clearanced for one or the other. Guaranteed we will see a high percentage of spun bearings and collapsed piston skirts with this misguided TSB policy on our 1nzfe engine.

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Last edited by TheSilkySmooth; 11-04-2008 at 01:45 PM. Reason: bad typing today
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Old 11-04-2008, 01:51 PM   #10
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This is an oversimplification on your part. The oil must provide adequate viscosity for the running clearance of the engine design - most critical are the journal clearance and piston to wall clearance. If you run an inadequate viscosity you will easily have catastrophic engine failure. As for margin lube contact wear in cam lobe-to-tappet face, piston top-to- bore, crank flange to journal thrust cap, and unfortunately add for our engines; timing chain sprocket to guide and chain to sprocket. Proper lubrication here relies all on the polar nature of the base oil (most popular syn are NOT polar) and the metal salt extreme pressure additives in the oil. Without them you WILL have premature wear no matter how good your base oil is (Good as in Motul, Redline, Fuchs, ELF NOT Mobil, Pennzoil, BP!) If toyota specs 30w and 20W they are really flirting with disaster. The motor MUST be clearanced for one or the other. Guaranteed we will see a high percentage of spun bearings and collapsed piston skirts with this misguided TSB policy on our 1nzfe engine.

Sonja's Dad
But your write up does not apply to this discussion.

You know why?

You are the one that is over-simplifying this issue. Why then do many UOA reports (Used Oil Analysis) show that using 20 weight oil does not in fact show more wear and tear?

Because Toyota has back-spec'd our cars for 20 weight oil, and if it would cause engine failure, then why would they invite millions of in-warranty repairs by publising the TSB, which states we all can use 20 weight in our cars.

And you know more then Toyota engineers? Why would Toyota willfully dirty their reputation and name by telling us to use 20 weight oil if it will cause enginen damage? Please.....

The only way what that what you write is true is if someone uses 20 weight on a engine THAT IS NOT SPEC'D FOR 20w oil.

This is not the case with our Yaris 1.5L engines.
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:24 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by SilverGlow View Post
But your write up does not apply to this discussion.

You know why?

You are the one that is over-simplifying this issue. Why then do many UOA reports (Used Oil Analysis) show that using 20 weight oil does not in fact show more wear and tear?

Because Toyota has back-spec'd our cars for 20 weight oil, and if it would cause engine failure, then why would they invite millions of in-warranty repairs by publising the TSB, which states we all can use 20 weight in our cars.

And you know more then Toyota engineers? Why would Toyota willfully dirty their reputation and name by telling us to use 20 weight oil if it will cause enginen damage? Please.....

The only way what that what you write is true is if someone uses 20 weight on a engine THAT IS NOT SPEC'D FOR 20w oil.

This is not the case with our Yaris 1.5L engines.
You're not still using the 0w-20 that is not SPEC'D for our Yaris 1.5L, are you, just because you found that viscosity listed in that Toyota TSB that you found...if you read it clearly the 0w20 is for the 1.8L, not the Yaris 1.5L
The engine damage isn't a fair trade for a little extra mpg.

5w-20 yes, 0w-20 no
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:05 PM   #12
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Lighter oil on start up also means less oil on engine parts when starting as they drain of faster, also lighter oils need more ep additives because of the boundary lubrication which can occur, I'd rather let the oil do the work not the ep additives. In hot climates a 5w20 or 0w20 is quite light at operating temperatures and will have more wear over a 5w30 or 0w30. Best choice would be to use a 0w30 for least amount of wear. If all you care about is best mileage go with the lightest oil you can find.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverGlow View Post
A lot of people that don't understand how oil works think this.

Thinner oil means faster circulation at start up. Faster circulation to the farthest reaches of an engine means less wear. And it is at start up that 90% of engine wear happens. At full operational speeds, the protection that w20 provides is nearly identical to most 30 weights.
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:20 PM   #13
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I recommended against zero (0) weight oils when that was being talked about.

I'm not an oil exert but I did learn a lot researching oil types for my kids crotch rocket.

There is a lot involved.. Piston velocity is a big factor when selecting an oil, not the only factor but in high rev engines (which we do not own), a big factor.

I don't quite understand the argument.. The oil cap says 5w-30. There is a tsb stating 5w-20 can be used. Either seems acceptable.

I use 5w-30 extended run synthetic and change it every 30,000 miles (just kidding), every 5K .

When you turn off the engine, do you guys think that everything drains dry? There is still plenty of oil left on the components to handle a start and run till the oil gets pumping which is pretty much immediately. A dry oil filter (fresh change) is another story.

My 2 cents...

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Old 11-03-2008, 05:35 PM   #14
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Just did my first oil change with some cheap 5w20 dino oil. Seems to run the same to me, but the car's still basically brand new so I don't think it can run much smoother than it already is. I decided to wait until at least my next oil change to go full synthetic. I'll be going Royal Purple. Still haven't decided on 5w20 or 5w30 for that...
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:17 PM   #15
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Just did my first oil change with some cheap 5w20 dino oil. Seems to run the same to me, but the car's still basically brand new so I don't think it can run much smoother than it already is. I decided to wait until at least my next oil change to go full synthetic. I'll be going Royal Purple. Still haven't decided on 5w20 or 5w30 for that...
which cheap dino for 5w-20 ?
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Old 11-03-2008, 08:25 PM   #16
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which cheap dino for 5w-20 ?
Rather not say, because we don't need to turn this thread into a "this oil is better than that oil" thread
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:28 PM   #17
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in canada they dont suggest 5w-20 then again dealer is a dealer they will tell you to use whats written on the oil cap..
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:42 PM   #18
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