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01-28-2014, 03:53 PM | #1 |
new water pump
New pump at 151000 km started to leak at the bearing ...fun job around an hr to do .
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01-28-2014, 03:54 PM | #2 |
toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
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did you have to lower the engine to get the long bolt out?
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If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight miles per hour... you're gonna see some serious shit!!!!!! "Horsepower is how fast you hit the object. Torque is how far you move that object.." |
01-28-2014, 03:58 PM | #3 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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It says you need to lower it a little to get the pump past the frame..
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12727 mine went around 56k km, bad bearing, but did not leak. |
01-28-2014, 04:19 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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All modern Yota's weakest link. I am gonna do a preventative flush soon, no issues yet at 72k, wifes Camry ok at 35k, flushed it at 30k
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B] |
01-28-2014, 04:50 PM | #5 |
I raised the engine ...but u can do it either way problem was that the bloody studs would not go back in if so one could just slide the pump in with help of pry bar ...so engine mount out and I jaked up the motor ..just enuf to make it all fit. ...best part is that toyota yaris pump cost me only 56$ plus coolent and hr of my time.
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