DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 10 - Toyota Yaris Forums

yarstar · 05-06-2009, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers

No clamp for months now on mine and no problems.

mikenacarato · 05-05-2009, 11:45 PM

get 3 more bolts like the one lower left bolt and replace the 3 studs.

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 12:16 AM

Just finished the install and holy fucking oscillation

form 1000-3000 rpm from a cold start. I tried driving around a little bit and it started jumping up to 4k on idle

and a CEL. How long does it typically take for the oscillation to start smoothing out? It's too late here (9:15) to mess around with it more. Don't want to piss off the neighbors. Any suggestions?

MGargano · 05-06-2009, 12:20 AM

It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away

Did the oscillation slowly smoothe out or did it just stop out of nowhere? How much driving did you do in 2 days?

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 12:28 AM

I am doing to leave the battery disconnected overnight incase 2 hours wasnt enough.

MGargano · 05-06-2009, 12:38 AM

I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.

Damn I was still gettingm oscillation and my motor was getting pretty warm. Is there an an idiot light that turns on if it starts overheating?

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 01:27 AM

WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation

Hopefully it stays that way. I didn't want to even take it around the block because I have had about half a beer and their are mad cops out for cinco de mayo. Hopefully I will have a nice drive to work tomorrow

MGargano · 05-06-2009, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation

Don't be surprised if the oscillation comes and goes for the first couple days. This happened to me and I thought everything was fine, then I got oscillation on the next cold start. Just be patient and give it a few days to work itself out.

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

Don't be surprised if the oscillation comes and goes for the first couple days. This happened to me and I thought everything was fine, then I got oscillation on the next cold start. Just be patient and give it a few days to work itself out.

Yeah it came back

eii · 05-06-2009, 03:31 PM

Just out of curiousity, are you guys doing the coolant bypass? I was considering doing so unless this changes the way it idles. The 3k cold starts for 1 minute is all I want as far as weird reving goes. Dont want the bypass to screw with my fine idling.

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eii

Just out of curiousity, are you guys doing the coolant bypass? I was considering doing so unless this changes the way it idles. The 3k cold starts for 1 minute is all I want as far as weird reving goes. Dont want the bypass to screw with my fine idling.

I did do the coolant bypass. Drive to work today was great

. I actually don't experience the high cold idle everyone else is. My cold idle is around 2k RPM just like stock. I did hower buy my TB from M911gt on here so he may have fine tuned the idle screw. I think if anything doing the coolant bypass will make it idle better

eii · 05-06-2009, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

I did do the coolant bypass. Drive to work today was great

. I actually don't experience the high cold idle everyone else is. My cold idle is around 2k RPM just like stock. I did hower buy my TB from M911gt on here so he may have fine tuned the idle screw. I think if anything doing the coolant bypass will make it idle better

Just to clarify things, the coolant by pass i just just hooking up together the two coolant hoses that connect to the TB, right? You dont do anything to the little metal thingies on the TB the hoses were connected to? Just leave them be?

MGargano · 05-06-2009, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eii

Just to clarify things, the coolant by pass i just just hooking up together the two coolant hoses that connect to the TB, right? You dont do anything to the little metal thingies on the TB the hoses were connected to? Just leave them be?

I plugged the tubes on the TB, but I've heard others have left them as-is. And yes, you just have to use a barb union to join the two hoses together.

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eii

Just to clarify things, the coolant by pass i just just hooking up together the two coolant hoses that connect to the TB, right? You dont do anything to the little metal thingies on the TB the hoses were connected to? Just leave them be?

Correct others have plugged them I just left them as is. Just go down to a lowes/home depot/etc and get a coupler barb for 3/8 inch ID vinyl tubing and you are food to roll. Stock clamps work and everything just need the barb.

eii · 05-11-2009, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

Correct others have plugged them I just left them as is. Just go down to a lowes/home depot/etc and get a coupler barb for 3/8 inch ID vinyl tubing and you are food to roll. Stock clamps work and everything just need the barb.

FYI, I'm always food to roll..always.

eii · 05-07-2009, 06:31 PM

Cool thanks guys. I'll probably stop by lowes once my paycheck arrives, hazzah!

Also, I'm using the simotoa carbon charger CAI. Buy a 2.5" silicone coupler at your local auto parts store and that should work perfectly.

05-06-2009, 03:31 PM	#12
eii Rides canyon walls Drives: 1988 RX7 FC 10th AE Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 503	Just out of curiousity, are you guys doing the coolant bypass? I was considering doing so unless this changes the way it idles. The 3k cold starts for 1 minute is all I want as far as weird reving goes. Dont want the bypass to screw with my fine idling. __________________ OEM Style Wing Spoiler \| TRD Axle-Back Exhaust \| Megan Lowering Springs (1.5 f/r) \| Simota Carbon Charger Intake \| Python 871XP Alarm System \| Aluminum Sports Pedal \| 17x7 +42mm Enkei J10 Black w/ Silver Lip \| 205/40 Falken Ziex-912 \| NST Lite Crank Pulley Red \| 1ZZ-FE Throttle Body \| AMK Racing Header

05-07-2009, 06:31 PM	#18
eii Rides canyon walls Drives: 1988 RX7 FC 10th AE Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 503	Cool thanks guys. I'll probably stop by lowes once my paycheck arrives, hazzah! Also, I'm using the simotoa carbon charger CAI. Buy a 2.5" silicone coupler at your local auto parts store and that should work perfectly. __________________ OEM Style Wing Spoiler \| TRD Axle-Back Exhaust \| Megan Lowering Springs (1.5 f/r) \| Simota Carbon Charger Intake \| Python 871XP Alarm System \| Aluminum Sports Pedal \| 17x7 +42mm Enkei J10 Black w/ Silver Lip \| 205/40 Falken Ziex-912 \| NST Lite Crank Pulley Red \| 1ZZ-FE Throttle Body \| AMK Racing Header Last edited by eii; 05-07-2009 at 11:27 PM.

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05-05-2009, 11:45 PM	#2
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	get 3 more bolts like the one lower left bolt and replace the 3 studs.

05-06-2009, 12:16 AM	#3
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	Just finished the install and holy fucking oscillation form 1000-3000 rpm from a cold start. I tried driving around a little bit and it started jumping up to 4k on idle and a CEL. How long does it typically take for the oscillation to start smoothing out? It's too late here (9:15) to mess around with it more. Don't want to piss off the neighbors. Any suggestions?

05-06-2009, 12:20 AM	#4
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away

05-06-2009, 12:28 AM	#6
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	I am doing to leave the battery disconnected overnight incase 2 hours wasnt enough.

05-06-2009, 12:38 AM	#7
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.

05-06-2009, 01:27 AM	#9
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation Hopefully it stays that way. I didn't want to even take it around the block because I have had about half a beer and their are mad cops out for cinco de mayo. Hopefully I will have a nice drive to work tomorrow