1zz Throttle body review/tips

[HANZO_187]

I'm pretty happy about going into this...I like how this throttle body thread went into an Auto Cross thread. lol

Naw but I seriously respect you guys for the info and for what you guys do.
I'm really looking forward to this and I hope some where along the silver lining I get a drivers edge out of it. I always loved racing as a youngster and with being the second Yaris I think besides Buzz that will be doing Auto X I'm just hopeful to get some good times in and show people that a few of us Yaris drivers mean buisness.

March 9th man...I can't get my mind off of it.

[ilikerice]

They guys in our region are anal about modification. Gino who is running Garm's Yaris is actually running XP class. With the interior gutted out he is technically in a Prepared class.
Can't run in EP because of the turbo. lol

Also, body kits and fiberglass hood will throw you in SMF. Unless its from the Yaris S. I have those rubber quick disconnects and would swap out my front and rear bumper and take off my side skirts at each event to stay in STF. That was before the 1zz throttle body and catless exhaust.

So, keep the interior in, if you are just removing the rear seats. SMF is fun. I am running SMF also this year, mod list are:
Megan coilovers
Megan Headers
Nitto catless mid pipe*
Tenabe axle back
1zz throttle body
CAI
Body kit*
15x7 rota gt3
225/45 Hankook RS3

* is the mods that put me in SMF

I now take my rear seat out before an event also to help with weight. Damn things are heavy as shit too..

[Rednaz]

Will the 1zz throttles work on the 2NZ 1300 engines as well?

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Rednaz

Will the 1zz throttles work on the 2NZ 1300 engines as well?

I don't think that 1ZZ would offer any other benefit except that your accelerator would more sensitive to input. Remember it is just a valve that lets air into the engine. When I dyno tested mine on a 1.5, while it did make some gains at the top end and some slight improvement on the way up, at low rpms there was no difference except that because it was larger it let more air in quicker. So the throttle is more responsive. That's the main improvement.

Can you post a pic of your intake? Also is your throttle body electronically actuated, or is it cable operated? We might be able to determine if it would work.

Greg

[HANZO_187]

@ilikerice I gotta check out what there rules are, I'm getting a lot of good mods for some LOW prices so modding is not so bad when I have spent less then 400$ for all the mods I have so far (Counting my HID's and Aftermarket alarm system) along with Megan headers coming into play before my first run.

I'm gonna be looking into wheels and stickier tires soon along with some bracing soon after but I am ALWAYS trying to get used parts and cheap prices on parts.

Kinda the reason why I call my Toyota the "V1" Standing for Vulture1. Hope you get the idea.

[cali yaris]

So the throttle is more responsive. That's the main improvement.

Just as easily replicated with a throttle controller then!

[ilikerice]

I gotta check out what there rules are

Yea man. Since you are modding just for fun and not for a specific class, just have fun with your car. Stick to SMF. Its fun when you are kicking the B swapped civics and turbo Integra's. If you got any questions on mods you are about to buy and curious about class, feel free to PM me. I am taking the chairman spot this year at our region so I gotta be on top of these kinda things

[yariseggvvti]

dose it sounds really deep or ricy? If you have time, post a video please. thank you!

[JimKellyfan]

Yeah, that is why I am focusing on the handling. Years ago, the old roundish jaguar XKE back in the early 60's got beat bad due to lack of power. The next year, they came out with better braking and beat em all in the turns. The handling and braking would have to be our edge. I put a bunch of bars on for stability, and it is rail like, even with the T rated tires, which I will swap them when worn to V rated Michelins (195/60/15). But, I am thinking of going to add even more bars from Ultra racing, the ones I don't have yet, 3 point fender brace, rear torsion bar, side lower and room bars. Good luck racing this year.

[ilikerice]

Tires, get some better tires.. You wanna ride on rails with a yaris, go wider, 195 are a bit skinny and the Michelins last longer but they just dont grip like the Falken 615k, Toyo R1R, Hankook RS3's..

[CrankyOldMan]

I thought the magic number for R1R's was 195/50R15, no? Aside from that, go as wide as your fenders allow.

[ilikerice]

If you wanna ride on rails, get thw Hoosier A6 in 275.

Everything you said is correct cranky

[HANZO_187]

I was looking at those wheels just now, not bad on the prices (IMO atleast)

I'm hoping to get some nice and sticky tires down the line but for now I need to get some new and lighter wheels and some decent tires to put em on. One pair for street use and the other for track buisness.

Btw guys thank you for helping us guys out with all the knowledge, glad to be part of this.

[salmanghiyas]

sorry for reviving this old thread

and thousand sorries in advance ... as i will be prompting and asking anything which i cud not understand you all guys at YW im new to YW and just bought a 2008 yaris 1.5L manual tranny ... and now a days just spending my spare time on YW forums and google ... reading and understanding NA mods ... i am trying my level best to get as much as i can .. but still .. im a newbie ... so had to ask questions ..sorry if i sound stupid

my question is ... here the swap is in between electronic TB's ? the ones which are DBW ?

[japle]

Its for the electronic tbs.... for the cables, if not mistaken, it also a direct swap...

[mattymo]

All, tb swap is kicking my butt. I've tried everything...chip swap, dial in good idle while warm after battery cycle, but i still get P0505 idle control system code. It also jerks sometimes letting on and off the throttle. Does anyone think i should adjust other stop screw inside the tb? This looks like it sets how far back the valve can close. It looks like the ecu can actually fully shut the valve the way it's set now. Does the ecu actually do this? Any suggestions? Preeshiate it. Car runs great under this mod when it's cooperating, but flakes into this code.

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[tooter]

Originally Posted by mattymo

All, tb swap is kicking my butt. I've tried everything...chip swap, dial in good idle while warm after battery cycle, but i still get P0505 idle control system code. It also jerks sometimes letting on and off the throttle. Does anyone think i should adjust other stop screw inside the tb? This looks like it sets how far back the valve can close. It looks like the ecu can actually fully shut the valve the way it's set now. Does the ecu actually do this? Any suggestions? Preeshiate it. Car runs great under this mod when it's cooperating, but flakes into this code.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk

The symptoms you're describing are exactly what I experienced before turning out the tiny factory epoxied external hex head screw to allow the butterfly to come to rest at a more closed position. That one adjustment solved everything.

Check that the butterfly isn't hanging up on anything under the throttle body. That could also prevent the butterfly from closing.

Check and recheck everything for any air leaks. They can play havoc with the idle. And make certain that all of the vacuum hoses to your intake manifold are going to the original factory locations.

What kind of intake and filter are you running? Check for any air leakage around the MAF, as well as the electrical connection at the plug, as it determines your A/F at idle.

Greg

[mattymo]

I've adjusted the epoxy screw to get good idle, but crazy georgia weather swings may be confusing the learn. I have an aem intake. My vacuum and af ratios look ok in torque. I do seem to get more trouble with atmospheric pressure changes too.

After you solved everything, did u scan the ecm? Sometimes this code wont actually trigger the check engine light. Thanks.

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