45k clutch is going

[djct_watt]

And sorry if that post sounded condescending. . . it is very possible that the cable needs to be adjusted, but 99.99999999% of the time, people just aren't used to their clutches.

[yaris2010RS]

lol, i dont understand y everyone's first comment has to be a smartass one

and i can do that in my car, with my new custom intake i can do it up my driveway too.

and here is my smart ass comment :) the yaris clutch is fluid clutch, not cable..... meaning u dont know what ure taking about :) (i mean no disrespect, iunno when they switched to fluid over cable but 09+ is fluid

i'd like it a bit lower since that is how i got the car, got use to it, let my mom drive it and now its funny.... lol

also i have asked this many times before...... does anyone else notice their clutch will grab low one time, then next time grab quite a bit higher?

EDIT: SORRY, NOW I SEEM LIKE A DOUCH.... i didn't realise u also drove a 2010...... before anyone has a chance to get mad at me, possibally different regions have different clutch systems. the North American Yaris is fluid controlled

[djct_watt]

No reason to get touchy. . . I was just making a joke. . . this whole place is supposed to be fun and not an encyclopedia.

And for the record you are correct. I've owned a lot of MT cars, and I have yet to adjust the clutch on the yaris, so I haven't looked yet if it's hydraulic or cable actuated. But I'm pretty certain, now that you mention it, that it's hydraulic. And in that case, you can usually adjust it at the pushrod assembly thingy at the base of the pedal. I'm at work and can't go out and check right now. I dunno. . . trying to help out by proposing possibly solutions, but snapping back at people trying to help won't solve anything. I never called anybody names.

[djct_watt]

If it's hydraulic, bleeding the clutch may help too. Trapped air could be causing your inconsistencies. . .

[djct_watt]

And for the record. . . I've spent my last year in the USA rebuilding a motorcycle that had a cable actuated clutch (GSX600F Katana), so I'm used to referring to the clutch cable and subsequent adjustments.

[yaris2010RS]

lol, hey man, dnw, that was my joke. and good call, i have looked everywhere for the adjustment but not on the base of the pedal.....

been thinking about bleeding it but i'd hate to fail, introduce air and need a tow to toyota to get it fixed. lol. its not a critical problem so i'd hate to make it a critical one. simple adjustments for this one or i'm gonna have to live with the issue (or give it to my mom and get my new clutch in about a week) lol

but would air cause inconsistencies or jsut a constant softness or failure? i've worked with break systems and getting the air out but never clutch

[djct_watt]

Yeah. . . bleeding the clutch is a pain. And technically it's a closed system, so air shouldn't enter. . . but like brakes, sometimes it just happens though unlikely. Oh and now that I think about it, another cause of inconsistency is clutch glazing. It sounds like you know what you're doing, so it might not be the case. But often times when the clutch heats up, the engagement point will change; especially with aggressive driving. After the clutch cools down, the glaze will wear off bringing things back to normal.

Here is a good run through of a clutch system on an MR2. If I remember correctly, everything should be very similar, and it's a good guide to work off of.

http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanic...me2/clutch.htm

[yaris2010RS]

lol, hey hey, dont be too nice now, i can take it ("sounds like you know what ure doing") lol, i can drive stick (i say i can atleast), i got use to the DBW and smooth shifts but i do drive it hard.... kinda. down shifting and high revving. i dont know what exactly would heat up a clutch to ubnormal conditions to create it to get the glaze.... now i need to take mental note of when its doing it..... i do believe more so on take off.... out of my garage isn't bad but the coffee shop down the road is always a job to take off.... from my house to there it might be 2km.

under normal driving conditions a clutch should stay fairly cool (unglazed) and not change place?

[djct_watt]

Originally Posted by yaris2010RS

lol, hey hey, dont be too nice now, i can take it ("sounds like you know what ure doing") lol, i can drive stick (i say i can atleast), i got use to the DBW and smooth shifts but i do drive it hard.... kinda. down shifting and high revving. i dont know what exactly would heat up a clutch to ubnormal conditions to create it to get the glaze.... now i need to take mental note of when its doing it..... i do believe more so on take off.... out of my garage isn't bad but the coffee shop down the road is always a job to take off.... from my house to there it might be 2km.

under normal driving conditions a clutch should stay fairly cool (unglazed) and not change place?

Hey hey, usually people who understand how a clutch works (the diff between hydraulic and cable) know how to use it too. Because we do have a weak clutch, I've noticed glazing after prolonged stop and go traffic and high ambient temps (no chance to cool off), and also if there are a lot of hills. That and aggressive launches. . . it doesn't take much to glaze it and have a noticeable affect on launches, but it doesn't take much to sheer of the glaze either. It's not all that different from the brakes fading (and that happens pretty quickly too).

[yaris2010RS]

oh, and since now (after my bad remark) u do seem to know quite abit about the clutch, lol, do u notice (or anyone else) a clunk noise? i dont think its related to the clunk noise in the drive system, but even with the shifter in no gear, start the car (i believe it also does it when its off) and depress the clutch. release it slowly and at some point it makes a rather loud clunk..... i have passed this off as being the clutch plates making contact. jsut wanted to know if anyone else has this issue?

[djct_watt]

Whoah, no clunk for me. . . just the infamous squeek that I've been too lazy to address. Good luck hunting it down. . . those are very tricky and could be anything.

[yaris2010RS]

squeek? lol. and the clunk has to be the clutch plate itself or the clutch arm..... worse comes to worse i'll let toyota figure it out

[djct_watt]

You're probably right. . . I just had a bad experience hunting down a clunk that turned out to be a socket wrench some genius service tech dropped or left in the splash gaurd / plastic under tray of my brother's Lexus.

[yaris2010RS]

lol, hey, i lost one of my sockets in that area when i was messing around one day. a 20 min time gap for me to screw around ended up taking me 2 hours and needed to remove my entire bumper....lol. (it could ahve taken me alot shorter time but i was trying to get it without removing bumper.....

restoring my friends car, when we took the dash out we found 3 different size sockets and a few hex screw wrenches from the guy(s) who worked on the car before. they were inside his vent systems. lol.

[myar]

I have the mystery clunk as well. It is intermittent, and I can't make it happen consistently, but every now and then i will hear a clear "clunk" when I let out the clutch. It seems to happen when I am going into 3rd gear after a deceleration (like if I have to slow down for a sharp curve). The car does not jump, so it is not that I am going too fast when entering the gear. Is this a sign of the clutch going bad/having problems? anyone else have this? Mine is an 09 LB with <10k miles. I just kind of assumed that sometimes you will hear a clunk when there are a lot of metal moving parts manufactured by the lowest bidder bolted together by a third party . I don't want to hijack the thread, but maybe this is relevant to your problems.

[Thirty-Nine]

FYI, 24,000 miles on my 2007, and I had the chatter. Dealer replaced the clutch under warranty; I had the TRD unit put in.

However, now (1 month after install?) the transmission is leaking. Back to the dealership again ...

[ham]

92k on my 2007 yaris and no clutch problems other than I hate this hydrolic assist clutch