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#1 |
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1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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It'll just get worse and worse. The fix is so easy, why ignore it?
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2020 Corolla Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 549
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I am not a car guy. I know how to check my oil .. and that's about it. So .. fixing it will be something that I may get the dealer to do. But the dang lights won't stay on, so the dealer won't touch it.
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,886
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from the sounds of it your sensor is at the point where there is some corrosion but the pins are still intact and no serious damage has been done. it may get to the point where the only thing possible to do is to replace which is much more $$$
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,886
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thought they didnt use salt out there?
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it
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#5 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 100
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^^^ I agree with this.
edmscan, you really should take a look at it while you still have time to protect the connection before it's completely corroded apart. All you have to do is clean the salt spray and sand off the connector, and then seal it back up with dielectric grease. It takes no more than 10 minutes and will save you all kinds of headaches. The dealer will charge you for an hour's labour, so that'll be $90-110 for a very simple task. Take a look at this pic for what the sensor looks like: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...&postcount=232 |
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#6 |
![]() Drives: Orange Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: London Ontario Canada
Posts: 2
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The ABS and brake light appeared today not impressed. I retrieved the code and it was 33 for right rear sensor. Pulled the rear wheels off to get better access. Took a while to get the electrical connector off the back of the sensor. I ended up using a medium cotter key split in half. I put it in the lower part of the connector and turned while pulling on the connector towards the center of the car. Blew my mind when I got it off this plug has no rubber seal of weather proofing at all WTF... I dried them both out with a hair dryer and filled them with vasoline. Drove it down the street and BOOM!! it's fixed. When it's not -14 out I will rig up some boots to cover the connectors. They should at lease supply us with some rubber boots that can be slipped over these connectors to prevent the moisture.
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2020 Corolla Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 549
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I have great news .... the local Toyota dealer is going to fix my ABS (!) brake problem, under extended warranty. The extended warranty coverage for my car was purchased by the original owner, and it apparently does cover the ABS (!) issue. So I am looking forward to getting my car finally fixed.
Edit: .. got my ABS (!) issue fixed today at the Toyota dealer. It was good to finally get the problem resolved. The best thing is that it was all covered under ECP warranty. Last edited by edmscan; 02-14-2013 at 08:01 PM. |
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#8 |
![]() Drives: 2006 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 11
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I have an 06 and just had to clean the sensors for the 2nd time last night. But the bad news is on the passenger side the plug fell completely apart. So I need to replace the ABS sensor wire (part 89516-52090) and the speed sensor (part 89544-52040).
Two questions; does anyone know a site that will ship to Canada and has the parts for a good price. The dealer cost is freaking crazy and more than double what i have found from sites in the US which won't send items north of the border. Second question, does anyone have DIY for changing the speed sensor? |
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#9 |
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![]() you will need a press...at least that's how i removed my hub. i can maybe send it to you for 100$ shipped from US. Last edited by enviri; 03-02-2013 at 09:23 PM. |
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#10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2020 Corolla Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 549
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All I know is that when the dealer fixed my speed sensor issue (both left and right sides) it took them about 2-3 hours to complete the job. So it doesn't sound like it is a simple 10 min job.
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#11 |
![]() Drives: Yaris Hatchback LE Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 14
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owner of 2007 LB yaris, had rust proofing done when it was bought new from DVN dealership.
I just got this stupid ABS & (!) lights on problem about few weeks ago, after some googling i found this thread. I have a service appointment booked and will talk to them to see if they will do a good will pricing for me, if not, i'm not planning to fix it. |
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#12 |
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jb48
Drives: 2008 hatchback automatic Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 12
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Now I have a dilemna!
I bought a used (97000 km) 2008 Yaris HB a month ago and it`s my sole everyday vehicle (my other one is a 1984 Suzuki 650 motorcycle). So far so good, no problem at all. In addition to everyday transportation, I use my car for delivering mail to mailboxes in rural area. I read all the 22 pages of this thread and now i have a dilemna: do I take preventive actions to address the potential problem by asking my mechanic to clean and grease the ABS connections when he`ll install my new winter tires or is it better to do nothing per popular proverb <if it ain`t broke, don`t fix it>? |
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#13 |
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1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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Take it apart and grease it with dielectric grease before it's too late.
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#14 |
![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 22
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I've had the ABS & "!" light coming on intermittently since Christmas, and then it went solid for most of the winter so I suspected corrosion. Scan revealed C0210 (right rear speed sensor circuit).
Yesterday it was finally warm and dry enough to take a wheel off and have a look. Turns out that one of the two pin sockets on the harness was crusted up with green corrosion. And I can see why it happened, the plastic housing of the connector had a crack in it that let water in. Being as I'm a tightwad, I scraped out as much of the crust as possible with a small sewing pin and flushed out the debris with alcohol spray and compressed air. Added a tiny spot of grease in the hole and plugged it in. Cleared the codes by jumping the DLC and the warning lights are now off. I know this is a temporary repair, so the next time the light comes on I'm going to just replace both rear harnesses. |
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#15 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Hatch Join Date: May 2009
Location: NW OH
Posts: 93
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You're the best CTS! Will try to look closer.
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#16 |
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Yes CTScott is the BEST!
D.
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#17 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,450
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And even better; I found a picture of releasing the clip from when we did the JDM Vitz RS rear axle swap on enviri's Yaris.
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#18 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Hatch Join Date: May 2009
Location: NW OH
Posts: 93
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OK, I'm not sure I did it right, but I managed to get the connectors off to inspect them without damaging them. I'm still a little confused, though.
I have a service manual on CD, so I found instructions on page AH-14 -- "AXLE – REAR AXLE HUB AND BEARING" and there it provides the instructions: DISCONNECT SKID CONTROL SENSOR WIRE (w/ABS) I could not see any "claw" to remove; in fact I don't think there even is one. What I did is I followed CTScott's instruction (I think...) to remove that clip that you can raise up on top of the sensor with a screwdriver. Well, turns out it is sort of a clamshell like cover that surrounds the whole connector. In my photo below you can see that there is a slotted locking clip that snaps onto a little nub; actually there is one on top and on the bottom. To get the cover off you have to raise both clips and work the thing off. With the cover off I took a screwdriver and gingerly worked the connector off. It did finally kind of pop off. I did not find any broken pins or anything. Is that what I was supposed to do, CTScott? When concerns me is that the manual says "Do not remove the connector cover." Well, if by "connector cover" they mean that clamshell thing that surrounds the connector, that ship done sailed. I did not damage the wires, though, and managed to get it back on OK after reattaching the connector. When I had the connector off I checked it for that "claw" they said to remove. I did not find any separate part that I could have removed. That's what confuses me about this whole thing. Last edited by robkay; 08-25-2014 at 10:27 AM. |
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