DIY Cruise Control FAQ (2006-2010 Yaris)

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by white_rice

Can someone please tell me what the functionality is of the single OEM wire/pin that plugs into the D3 connector on the steering column? I ask because I need to replace this connector but want to know what I'll be unhooking exactly, once removed.

Thanks.

The black wire is for the horn.

[SKurj]

Ok so my steering wheel cover came in today. I followed all the steps, and kept saying to myself.. too good to be true... too good to be true....

Everything back together, start the car.. airbag light won't turn off... uh oh here we go, what did i break or do I need to run some wire to some pin...

Pop the airbag off again, and notice I hadn't pushed the yellow clips back in. Didn't figure that could be it, but put it back together and started it again. The light went off!!

Too good to be true... Too good to be true...

Test drive time, I notice the cruise indicator on the dash works, good sign. The damn cruise does everything its supposed to flawlessly.. for less than $100... and 30 minutes labor..

Makes no sense toyota doesn't offer this cruise..

Many thanks to Scott for this!

And in this case it's everything its claimed to be.


P.S. If anyone wants the stock steering wheel cover without hole cut, just cover shipping and its yours (note I am in Toronto Area).

[burdenj]

Hi everyone, first substantial post here!

Thanks to this awesome community, my 08' Hatchback now has cruise as well, just put the finishing touches on it this morning.

Please forgive the dirt, it's only just barely spring in St. John's, Newfoundland. Also, that mess that looks vaguely like a circuit is all tidy and covered in heat shrink now

For the switches, I used double throw momentary toggles which are off at the centered position. I know it doesn't look stock like some of the push button switches do, but I just have a thing for toggle switches.

I got them from Digikey if anyone's interested (450-1530-ND).

[Brianr4]

Finally finished installing all of mine and it works perfect!
I think it works better then the factory cc in my Tundra.

Have to give much thanks to CTScott for making the kit...selling the kit...and for being so patient with all my questions!

His brain must be super huge!!!!

[Saggio]

Installed my kit today from Scott. LOVE it!

Thanks again!!!

[Brianr4]

Scott, did the horn plug make it back to you?

[49erRider]

Couldn't get mine to work and tried searching these posts but has anyone else had an "a ha" moment when theirs didn't work and want to share?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 49erRider

Couldn't get mine to work and tried searching these posts but has anyone else had an "a ha" moment when theirs didn't work and want to share?

The most common one with 06-08's, when using the OEM stalk is not properly seating the ECM pin. The check for that is to measure the voltage on the wire connected to the ECM pin with the ignition switch in the on position (engine not running). It should measure 12 Volts with no buttons pressed on the stalk. If it does not, then the pin is not seated properly or is in the wrong location.

[49erRider]

I figured it out! I had 12volts to the ECM pin so that wasn't the problem. When I drive I ride with my foot just resting on the clutch. That was enough to remove pressure from the plunger causing it to not activate.

Works great, another thankful yaris owner Scott!

[hayden]

Hey CTSCott - if you remember I bought a CC stalk from you along with the wiring kit. It worked fine for a month or two and you may remember me posting that it stopped working occasionally and would also sometimes make the car accelerate on it's own.

It eventually stopped working entirely but just now had time to go out with a multimeter to test it. This was done about a foot of wire away from the computer thingy (on the firewall in the engine bay) at one of those snap-close connectors I used. The ignition was on (I know you told me to do it with the ignition off, but hopefully this works too) but the engine off.

Car on but engine off: 12.3v
With the on/off button held: 0.2v
Held down: 6.1v
Held up: 3.4v
Held toward: 8.6v

Any idea why the CC wouldn't be working AT ALL? I have no idea what these values are supposed to be. I'm concerned that maybe the wire thickness I used may be too much, but I have no idea how these things work. I think it was the same type that you used in the wiring kit (had to buy extra from radio shack).

Thanks a ton for your help!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hayden

Hey CTSCott - if you remember I bought a CC stalk from you along with the wiring kit. It worked fine for a month or two and you may remember me posting that it stopped working occasionally and would also sometimes make the car accelerate on it's own.

It eventually stopped working entirely but just now had time to go out with a multimeter to test it. This was done about a foot of wire away from the computer thingy (on the firewall in the engine bay) at one of those snap-close connectors I used. The ignition was on (I know you told me to do it with the ignition off, but hopefully this works too) but the engine off.

Car on but engine off: 12.3v
With the on/off button held: 0.2v
Held down: 6.1v
Held up: 3.4v
Held toward: 8.6v

Any idea why the CC wouldn't be working AT ALL? I have no idea what these values are supposed to be. I'm concerned that maybe the wire thickness I used may be too much, but I have no idea how these things work. I think it was the same type that you used in the wiring kit (had to buy extra from radio shack).

Thanks a ton for your help!

Those voltages are fine (and that is correct to measure them with the engine off, but ignition on).

Try wiggling the ECM Pin while measuring to make sure that the connection is not intermittent.

Can you refresh my memory on if you have an AT or MT?

[hayden]

It's an AT 2007 2 door.

If there was no connection at all to the ECM, would that line still be powered? I'll go reseat the pin and see if that helps because it was definitely intermittent before dying entirely.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hayden

It's an AT 2007 2 door.

If there was no connection at all to the ECM, would that line still be powered? I'll go reseat the pin and see if that helps because it was definitely intermittent before dying entirely.

That wire would be zero volts if disconnected. But, it could be connected when still and intermittently disconnected when the engine starts shaking it.

[hayden]

Originally Posted by CTScott

That wire would be zero volts if disconnected. But, it could be connected when still and intermittently disconnected when the engine starts shaking it.

Reseated the pin, no luck. I'll try going out there and wiggling it while taking a reading to see if I can make it go to 0. Any other advice if that shows up fine though?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hayden

Reseated the pin, no luck. I'll try going out there and wiggling it while taking a reading to see if I can make it go to 0. Any other advice if that shows up fine though?

If that looks solid, work your way towards the stalk, verifying the connections along the way.

[hayden]

I'm trying to test the wire right at the stalk, but I think I'm maybe having trouble finding a ground for the negative pokey thing. Do you have suggestions of a ground available near the steering wheel?

I removed all my plastic connectors and just wrapped the ends of wires around each other, put a little solder, and duct taped it. I'm thinking maybe it's the D3 connector but wasn't able to remember how to "unclamp" it.

And it turns out, the extra wire I bought is this thick solid type (think barbed wire with rubber coating) rather than the typical frayed stuff you see in electronics - that doesn't matter does it?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hayden

I'm trying to test the wire right at the stalk, but I think I'm maybe having trouble finding a ground for the negative pokey thing. Do you have suggestions of a ground available near the steering wheel?

I removed all my plastic connectors and just wrapped the ends of wires around each other, put a little solder, and duct taped it. I'm thinking maybe it's the D3 connector but wasn't able to remember how to "unclamp" it.

And it turns out, the extra wire I bought is this thick solid type (think barbed wire with rubber coating) rather than the typical frayed stuff you see in electronics - that doesn't matter does it?

Any bare metal under the dash will make a good ground.

The only potential issue with solid instead of stranded wire is flexibility. Solid wire can't be flexed too much or it will break.

[hayden]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Any bare metal under the dash will make a good ground.

The only potential issue with solid instead of stranded wire is flexibility. Solid wire can't be flexed too much or it will break.

I think I'm giving up. I guess I'm a god damned retard because apparently I cannot even make the wires connect. I reran ALL of the wire again, and the connection right at the D3 connector will be fine for 5 minutes, then with changing nothing, the connection will break. I'll check it at the ECM, it's fine, and then check it again at D3 and magically it's working again after changing nothing. And now even when there's a connection right before the D3 connector, moving the CC stalk no longer causes any changes in voltages, meaning there's now also a problem with the D3 connector or something between the D3 and the stalk.

Maybe I'll just put up a craigslist ad asking someone who isn't a retard to do it for me for $50 or something. Anyone in DFW want to make some easy money?