Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by pennyracer

hi CTScott you have giving me some info in the past of a few different topics my only trouble i have had for years on my 08 yaris lb with power package is when my car is stored in a building for months at a time even with a trickle charger hooked up my battery will drain completely i have a python 571xp remotoe start with keyless entry i have pulled all my fuses for the stereo and amps trying to isolate this constant draw did not help then sometimes the cars will be stored same way battery stays up i keep telling my stereo guy its not the car itself but im sure wondering these days i have used yellow top optima and oddessy battery for longer life still not holding out when stored i do run a 180 amp dc alternator had the problem before and after alt install what do you think would cause this draw to be there most of the time and others not ? any advise from you would be awsome you are the yarisworld info king here oh no others add ons installed on my yaris just a little radio work and remote start and keyless entry only

The Yaris has one of the highest static draws that I have ever seen on a car (~100 mA), which by itself will drain a battery is less than a month. Add a remote starter and you are up in the 200-250 mA range, where 2 weeks without starting it is pushing it. Your trickle charger may just not be enough to counteract the static draw. I use a battery quick disconnect switch on Crashy.

[pennyracer]

okay is there a way if i have a professional wire my new alarm with remote start to have a remote function on a relay to kill the remote start draw when i store the car to slow the draw down i like the idea of a battery isolator just have to re program the head unit after each time i get my car out of storage to drive i am in the process of adding a second or even a third battery to build up the battery reserve for the radio and crazy voltage draw they will be mounted in the rear behind back seat quarters panels have you seen my new a pillar speaker addition still have to get the grills installed for the complete stealth look

[pennyracer]

one more question ctscott what brand would you spend your money on for complete security , remote start and gps tracking ? seems my only two options these days are viper or CompuStar ? sorry to be off topic here

[CTScott]

No. The receiver for the remote is what creates the extra drain.

Nice speaker install on the pillars!

[Tanes70]

Hi, I'm trying to install a remote starter on 2010 Toyota Yaris with immobilizer. I Use your guide to find all the wires and was easy to connect everything, but the starter didn't work... I'm a little confused with this car because I don't know if it has an alarm system or not. It has power doors and panic bottom on the key. I made the following connections between the remote starter module and the car: Ignition 1 on remote starter to the green wire in the car, Ignition 2 to the pink cable on the car, Accessory to the white one, and the Start to the black wire. I connect the bypass module as directed and it seems to be ok. Brake, parking lights, tach signal, horn and hood safety switch, were connected according with your wiring guide. So I have some doubts on the Ignition cables (should I use the green cable as ignition 2 and the pink one as ignition 1?) and should I use the alarm disarm wire on the module? If yes where must be connect it?
Thanks any help would be appreciated.
Sincerely, Andres.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Tanes70

Hi, I'm trying to install a remote starter on 2010 Toyota Yaris with immobilizer. I Use your guide to find all the wires and was easy to connect everything, but the starter didn't work... I'm a little confused with this car because I don't know if it has an alarm system or not. It has power doors and panic bottom on the key. I made the following connections between the remote starter module and the car: Ignition 1 on remote starter to the green wire in the car, Ignition 2 to the pink cable on the car, Accessory to the white one, and the Start to the black wire. I connect the bypass module as directed and it seems to be ok. Brake, parking lights, tach signal, horn and hood safety switch, were connected according with your wiring guide. So I have some doubts on the Ignition cables (should I use the green cable as ignition 2 and the pink one as ignition 1?) and should I use the alarm disarm wire on the module? If yes where must be connect it?
Thanks any help would be appreciated.
Sincerely, Andres.

I have installed three myself based on my guide. Did you install a transponder key bypass module, as one will be necessary on any 09+ due to the immobilizer.

[Tanes70]

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK. The TVIP OEM Alarm has a 36 pin connector:

Attachment 31700


Pin 12 (white/light blue wire) goes to a starter cut relay, so you will need to follow that wire to the starter cut relay, and tap the Black Wire coming off of that relay with your start wire. On a non-alarm car that would be the black wires on the ignition switch connector.

Pin 9 (orange wire) is the ignition switch power input to the TVIP, so if it actually needs the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) connection, that's where it would be done.


The key sense wire is the yellow wire on the two pin connector that is near the face of the keyswitch.

Where is this connector located?

[Tanes70]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I have installed three myself based on my guide. Did you install a transponder key bypass module, as one will be necessary on any 09+ due to the immobilizer.

Yes, I installed the bypass module, and it's all set. I was reading in this forum and realized that I connect the start wire to the black wire on the starter harness so probably that's the problem, so I have to find the TVIP OEM Alarm connector which I don't know where is located at, and connect the start wire on Pin #12... Also how I know if I should connect the (+) Ignition Output to the pin 9 on the TVIP OEM Alarm connector?
Thanks again for your quick response.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Tanes70

Yes, I installed the bypass module, and it's all set. I was reading in this forum and realized that I connect the start wire to the black wire on the starter harness so probably that's the problem, so I have to find the TVIP OEM Alarm connector which I don't know where is located at, and connect the start wire on Pin #12... Also how I know if I should connect the (+) Ignition Output to the pin 9 on the TVIP OEM Alarm connector?
Thanks again for your quick response.

The TVIP module should be to the right behind the glove box. I haven't done one with the TVIP system, but it does intercept the starter signal. I am not sure if the car will start if you bypass that connection, or if you will make the alarm trigger when you do so. You really have to disarm the TVIP before starting.

[thomascuba]

Dear CTScott;

I have successfully installed a 2 Way - RadioStart remote starter on a 2007 5 door HB automatic w/o inmobilizer. It does locks and unlocks the doors and starts the car.

I do still have more than 17 cables to connect. That's why I need your help on finding them and if possible pictures of their location and colors.

In theory as it is right now you can drive away when the car is started via remote, so I need to connect more inputs to ensure safety since the car will be driven by my wife.

Questions:
1- Are the two green wires on top of the break switch a +12V signal when break is depressed? Conn A13 Pin 1 as per your DIY manual (very hard to measure voltage due to accessibility)
2- Is there any unique cable that goes to ground when any door is opened or that goes to 12V when any door is opened?
3- Ignition Input of Key Cylinder (+) Ignition wire that provides +12V when Ignition is on and while cranking the starter. Green Conn 8 Pin 1. There is already a cable from the started connected to this one. Should I tap the input to the remote to the same cable?
4- If I inject ground to Conn D4 pin 13 white wire or inject +12V to Conn 4 Pin 29 Green will either action turn on the same lights (Parking Lights)?
5- Are the Parking lights the same as Hazard lights and turning lights?

Thanks!

[tmontague]

Alright I took some time and sat down and read through the installation manual to get the install ready for tomorrow. since Dan's DIY is no longer available on line (if anyone has it please let me know) I have a few Q's regarding the wiring. I am installing just a keyless entry (viper 211hv)

1. For the dome light output coming from the viper harness, what wire do I tap into on the 4k connector? I looked at the Toyota wiring diagram and from my understanding it would be the pink wire. I'm still learning how to read the diagrams so it'd be great if someone with experience can confirm this for me. I know the dome light input goes to a ground so that one is easy.

2. In CTScotts guide at the very bottom for the keyless entry part it shows "transponder key bypass module connections" Do I need to tap into these just for a keyless entry (no remote start or alarm)? My understanding was I only need to connect the Viper Modules yellow wire to ignition so that I could get the locks to unlock when the ignition is off.

3. Where do I connect the viper blue wire "second unlock output" so that I have progressive unlocking? From my research my understanding is to connect it to the brown doors lock wire, is this correct?

4. Do I need to bother with any of the other wires that go to the ignition such as "unlock 87a normally closed" if all I want is for the ignition to unlock the locks when turned off? Or is just the yellow viper wire connected to 12v ignition adequate enough?

Thanks guys

[tmontague]

Got in all wired up. Unlock/lock works, dome light goes on for 1minute when unlocked.

However there is no horn when locked or when panic is pressed. I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to signal for the horn but nothing happens.

My horn works fine if I press the steering wheel.

Also my parking lights do not flash either. Any ideas on what I should be checking?

[tmontague]

Just tried to start the car. As soon as key goes to start a click is heard and all power dies. Only way to get power back on is to disconnect , battery and then the same thing will happen again.

Here is a summary of what wires I connected to what:

H1/1 Red- connected to male bottom terminal in under dash fuse panel (the viper module is receiving power) so this wire is good
H1/2 blue- not connected
H1/3 black/white- connected to ground (works as dome light turn on/off w/ keyless unlock)
H1/4 black/white -connected to pink wire in 4K connected in underdash panel (works as dome light turns on/off with keyless unlock)
H1/5 green/black -connected to brown lock wire on CTScotts guide (works because the keyless fob locks the doors)
H1/6 white/black- not connected
H1/7 violoet/black- connected to ground (works because lock function works on fob
H1/8 blue/black- connected to green unlock wire on CTScotts guide (works because unlock function works on fob)
H1/9 violet- connected to ground
H1/10 white- connected to parking light (-)flask white wire in CTScott's guide on the headlight switch connector
H1/11 black- connected to ground
H1/12 brown - connected to black horn wire in CTScott's guide
H1/13 -not connected
H1/14 -not connected
H1/15 Yellow- connected to the white ignition accessory wire in CTScott's guide (I disconnected it and the car still shuts off all power when you try and start it as I thought maybe this wire was the culprit)
H1/16 -not connected
H1/17 -not connected
H1/16 - not connected

only have the lock and unlock function working as well as the dome light (goes on for 1 min when car is unlocked using fob)

parking lights do not flash and horn doesn't beep when locked 2x. Horn works when pressing the steering wheel button.

When panic is pushed I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to set off the horns but the relay under the hood isn't triggered.

When the car is turned to start a click is heard and all power is shut off from the car. It stays this way until the ecu is reset by unplugging the negative battery terminal. This seems to be an immobilizer issue that is doing this.

If anyone sees an issue with my wiring or sees that I wired to a wrong wire please let me know. I'm out of town for a few days but am hoping to have the car up and running when I get back.
Any help is appreciated...

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Alright I took some time and sat down and read through the installation manual to get the install ready for tomorrow. since Dan's DIY is no longer available on line (if anyone has it please let me know) I have a few Q's regarding the wiring. I am installing just a keyless entry (viper 211hv)

1. For the dome light output coming from the viper harness, what wire do I tap into on the 4k connector? I looked at the Toyota wiring diagram and from my understanding it would be the pink wire. I'm still learning how to read the diagrams so it'd be great if someone with experience can confirm this for me. I know the dome light input goes to a ground so that one is easy.

2. In CTScotts guide at the very bottom for the keyless entry part it shows "transponder key bypass module connections" Do I need to tap into these just for a keyless entry (no remote start or alarm)? My understanding was I only need to connect the Viper Modules yellow wire to ignition so that I could get the locks to unlock when the ignition is off.

3. Where do I connect the viper blue wire "second unlock output" so that I have progressive unlocking? From my research my understanding is to connect it to the brown doors lock wire, is this correct?

4. Do I need to bother with any of the other wires that go to the ignition such as "unlock 87a normally closed" if all I want is for the ignition to unlock the locks when turned off? Or is just the yellow viper wire connected to 12v ignition adequate enough?

Thanks guys

1. Dome light is the pink wire of the three wires in the connector to the lower left on page 3 (labeled: power connection)

2. For keyless entry you do not need the transponder key bypass module (or the connections for it)

3. For progressive unlocking you don't need a second output - You just have to pulse the unlock wire twice with the keyless entry system (if it supports that function. If not, you would connect the second output to the same wire as the first output).

4. I would need to see the book for the unit to verify, but unlock on ignition off should not require anything more than sensing the ignition losing power.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Got in all wired up. Unlock/lock works, dome light goes on for 1minute when unlocked.

However there is no horn when locked or when panic is pressed. I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to signal for the horn but nothing happens.

My horn works fine if I press the steering wheel.

Also my parking lights do not flash either. Any ideas on what I should be checking?

I just looked at my document (which I haven't looked at in a couple of years) and I show the wring connector for the horn. It should be the white connector, which just has the single black wire in it (no other wires for an 06-08) or the black and a brown and blue for 09-11.

For the parking light flash, are you using the + or - flash?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Just tried to start the car. As soon as key goes to start a click is heard and all power dies. Only way to get power back on is to disconnect , battery and then the same thing will happen again.

Here is a summary of what wires I connected to what:

H1/1 Red- connected to male bottom terminal in under dash fuse panel (the viper module is receiving power) so this wire is good
Correct

H1/2 blue- not connected
Correct

H1/3 black/white- connected to ground (works as dome light turn on/off w/ keyless unlock)
Correct

H1/4 black/white -connected to pink wire in 4K connected in underdash panel (works as dome light turns on/off with keyless unlock)
Correct

H1/5 green/black -connected to brown lock wire on CTScotts guide (works because the keyless fob locks the doors)
Correct

H1/6 white/black- not connected
Correct

H1/7 violoet/black- connected to ground (works because lock function works on fob
Correct

H1/8 blue/black- connected to green unlock wire on CTScotts guide (works because unlock function works on fob)
Correct

H1/9 violet- connected to ground
Correct

H1/10 white- connected to parking light (-)flask white wire in CTScott's guide on the headlight switch connector
Correct if the wire in pin 10 (4th from the right in that same row) is white/black. If it is green, then you have to use the + parking light flash

H1/11 black- connected to ground
Correct

H1/12 brown - connected to black horn wire in CTScott's guide
See my note in my response above about the correct connector

H1/13 -not connected
Correct

H1/14 -not connected
Correct

H1/15 Yellow- connected to the white ignition accessory wire in CTScott's guide (I disconnected it and the car still shuts off all power when you try and start it as I thought maybe this wire was the culprit)
Incorrect - This is an ignition input to the keyless entry system that has to stay hot even during cranking. This should be connected to the pink wire on the ignition switch connector, not the white accessory wire, which drops when cranking

H1/16 -not connected
Correct

H1/17 -not connected
Correct

H1/16 - not connected
Correct

only have the lock and unlock function working as well as the dome light (goes on for 1 min when car is unlocked using fob)

parking lights do not flash and horn doesn't beep when locked 2x. Horn works when pressing the steering wheel button.

When panic is pushed I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to set off the horns but the relay under the hood isn't triggered.

When the car is turned to start a click is heard and all power is shut off from the car. It stays this way until the ecu is reset by unplugging the negative battery terminal. This seems to be an immobilizer issue that is doing this.

If anyone sees an issue with my wiring or sees that I wired to a wrong wire please let me know. I'm out of town for a few days but am hoping to have the car up and running when I get back.
Any help is appreciated...

See my comments above in red.

[tmontague]

thanks CTScott for taking the time to answer my Q's. I understand where I made the mistakes now.

Can you explain to me what you mean about the horn wire? If it turns out that I have the connector that needs a + parking light pulse than what does that mean for my horn connection? What other wire would there be to tap into the horn and what determines if I need to use a different wire?

Can I tap into the green ignition wire instead of the pink? Both are 12v ignition and the thicker gauge of the green makes it easier to tap with my t taps due to their sizing

I'm curious as to what caused the immobilizer to shut everything down, obviously a wrong wire I tapped into but what specifically causes this? It happened when I installed my HID's as well until I put on a proper functioning ballast (the original one was defective)

Thanks

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

thanks CTScott for taking the time to answer my Q's. I understand where I made the mistakes now.

Can you explain to me what you mean about the horn wire? If it turns out that I have the connector that needs a + parking light pulse than what does that mean for my horn connection? What other wire would there be to tap into the horn and what determines if I need to use a different wire?

For the horn wire, the picture I included was the incorrect picture. The correct connector is the one on the left in the picture below. The horn is a ground to honk wire (i.e. -).



Can I tap into the green ignition wire instead of the pink? Both are 12v ignition and the thicker gauge of the green makes it easier to tap with my t taps due to their sizing
Yes - The green would be fine as well.


I'm curious as to what caused the immobilizer to shut everything down, obviously a wrong wire I tapped into but what specifically causes this? It happened when I installed my HID's as well until I put on a proper functioning ballast (the original one was defective)
I am not sure, as the immobilizer only prevents starting - It can not kill the running engine.


Thanks

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