Power upgrade (pictures).

[PROX4x4]

Why didn't i see this thread before i did my locks? it took me a long time to figure out the actuator location.

Mine was installed in 5 hours 2 doors only and with a budget of around $40 only. Keyless entry.

[auxmike]

I took the easy route. Got the factory power pkg for $1280 back in '08 when I bought my car. Money well spent with factory warr and parts!

[thorasaurus]

I'm in the process of going from completely manual to power locks. My question is if my car has none of the lock/unlock wire in the 20 pin connector, do I need to tap in there or can I just run the wires straight from the power lock "brain" to the actuators?

Thanks.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by thorasaurus

I'm in the process of going from completely manual to power locks. My question is if my car has none of the lock/unlock wire in the 20 pin connector, do I need to tap in there or can I just run the wires straight from the power lock "brain" to the actuators?

Thanks.

You can just run them straight through. There is no reason to go through the hassle of adding the OEM wiring, when it is just going to connect to aftermarket equipment.

[thorasaurus]

Thanks for the quick response. I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way but for now I got the extra wiring at Autozone and should be ready for an afternoon of fun

[thorasaurus]

Okay, I've hit my first wall. I'm using the Black Widow 852 kit by the way in case it needs referenced. Install manual here (http://www.blackwidowsecurity.com/in...%20Install.pdf).

I'm not trying anything fancy, just running the wires straight to the actuators that came with the kit. I've tried connecting the common unlock wire (black/green) on the brain to the green wire on the actuator and the common lock wire (blue/black) on the brain to the blue wire on the actuator. The brain clicks and the horn honks (once for lock; twice for unlock) but the actuator doesn't move. I've tried every combination of the other two possible lock and unlock wires and even switch blue/green and the actuator won't move.

Any ideas? I only hooked up one for now because I wanted to make sure the wiring was right. Do I need to hook up the other three for them to work?

Thanks.

[thorasaurus]

I plan to get the meter out at lunch to check but once I find one 12v constant, I'm just going to link everything up to it with splices. Everything has fuses and I just want to make sure everything is getting power. Either that or I'll tie in one to the 12v on the fuse box and tie the violet/violet-black to the yellow on the ignition. Hopefully something with work.

Thanks as always.

[thorasaurus]

Still nothing. Do you think I need to wire relays like this for it to work? LINK

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by thorasaurus

Still nothing. Do you think I need to wire relays like this for it to work? LINK

No. It has built in relays. Post pics for me of all of your connections, and we'll get to the bottom of it.

[thorasaurus]

Onward and upward. I started from scratch so as to make sure all the wires were connected as they should and found that I had not connected the black ground wire (duh).

Anyway, when I finished re-wiring everything, the actuators now work BUT.... both buttons on the remote lock the car when blue/black (brain) is connected to blue (actuator) and green/black (brain) is connected to (green) actuator. If I swap them on the actuator wires, both remote buttons unlock the car. Obviously I want one button to lock and the other to unlock.

I've attached some pictures but at this point I think it's just a right wire, right place issue.

[CTScott]

Your +12V connection of the violet wires should be to the top terminal in the connector between the single blue and the huge single black wires.

[thorasaurus]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Your +12V connection of the violet wires should be to the top terminal in the connector between the single blue and the huge single black wires.

I had it there but there was no power. Weird I know; but there is power at this one so I don't know what to think. As for the red 12v +, I thought it's ok to connect it to the yellow ignition or is that not true?

Thanks, CTScott, you are the man. I'm also consulting the dealer who sold it to me so hopefully between both, I can figure out what's up.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by thorasaurus

I had it there but there was no power. Weird I know; but there is power at this one so I don't know what to think. As for the red 12v +, I thought it's ok to connect it to the yellow ignition or is that not true?

Thanks, CTScott, you are the man. I'm also consulting the dealer who sold it to me so hopefully between both, I can figure out what's up.

That may be a sedan vs. Lifback wiring difference. Those are actually fuse holders for some features that we don't get in the US. Just make sure that where you connected them to shows +12 with the ignition on or off.

For the red, your module wants to see unswitched power on that wire.

[thorasaurus]

Actually you were right. The constant 12v works there so I hooked in the violets and the red there and the dealer suggested it might be the ground so I put all three of those together on the ground. Still only locks and doesn't unlock or vice-versa. So close.

Does it matter that the ground isn't a ring? I got one of those U-shaped connectors. I can buy a ring if need be but I didn't think it was a big deal. Otherwise I'm just cruising forums looking for someone with the same problem.

Should I try using the violet wires or the brown/black and white black as the lock/unlock wires instead? That doesn't really make sense but the manual says polarity could be the problem so... I'm lost.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by thorasaurus

Actually you were right. The constant 12v works there so I hooked in the violets and the red there and the dealer suggested it might be the ground so I put all three of those together on the ground. Still only locks and doesn't unlock or vice-versa. So close.

Does it matter that the ground isn't a ring? I got one of those U-shaped connectors. I can buy a ring if need be but I didn't think it was a big deal. Otherwise I'm just cruising forums looking for someone with the same problem.

Should I try using the violet wires or the brown/black and white black as the lock/unlock wires instead? That doesn't really make sense but the manual says polarity could be the problem so... I'm lost.

I don't understand what you mean by "I put all three of those together on the ground". Do you mean Black, Brown/Black and White/Black? (since they are the only wires that should be grounded).

A ring terminal doesn't matter as long as you are on a solid ground (for example the bolt under the driver's kick panel).

With the actuators, are they two wire? If so, Blue/Black should go to one of the two wires and Green/Black to the other.

[CTScott]

From what I can see in the two pics:

Brown/White horn output - OK

Black/Yellow dome light output - OK

Red +12 Power - should be connected along with Violet wires to correct +12 terminal

Yellow Ignition switched +12 - Can't tell from your pic, but it should be connected to the pink wire on the Ignition switch connector.

[TickleTimeTim]

how many parts are used in the coilibri kit? im finding all sorts of kits places, but none that have as many washers and brackets as that kit. how many are actually needed?

[thorasaurus]

Hey, good news! I got everything up and working. Turns out the tap splice to the ignition wire wasn't a good connection so while I had thought I had programmed it, I obviously hadn't. So once I got that programmed it now locks and unlocks. Hooray.

Time to tape everything up and put it back together.

Now to name my first child CT or Scott, kidding...