DIY (08' USDM Liftback): ESUSE Fog Light Install v2.0

[djfrnk]

hey i am having issue hooking up the wires on the inside for the fog ligth , i know here show step by step but my wires are different colors ,can some one help?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by djfrnk

hey i am having issue hooking up the wires on the inside for the fog ligth , i know here show step by step but my wires are different colors ,can some one help?

Are your wires white and yellow?

[T Pexx]

i did this install this weekend and everything works fine except for one detail. When my headlights are on my fogs shut off, but when my headlights aren't on, my fog lights are able to turn on.

PLEASE HELP!!

spent way to much time on this.

[T Pexx]

anyone ?

[1NZYaris1]

Originally Posted by T Pexx

anyone ?

switch the 2 wires on the switch around

[T Pexx]

Originally Posted by 1NZYaris1

switch the 2 wires on the switch around

could you be more specific please

[PROX4x4]

Originally Posted by goku87

ORIGINALLY POSTED BY revnull PRE THE GREAT HACK OF '08
Survived through Google cache

This one was a pain in the ass to repost. Soooo mannnyyy picturessss!!! >.<
But at least it was saved so it could be reposted.
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First of all, I’d like to thank PK198105 for pointing me to Clowncar’s original post outlining this method of installation. It is far easier that the former method of running a wire through the firewall. In addition to the aftermarket fog light kit, you will need butt splice connectors, wire tap connectors, and the Toyota Denso fog light relay (Part# 90080-87026). The relay is very pricy from the dealer. I found one on ebay for $13 USD shipped. I have no way of knowing if this method will work on all models/years/geos of yari/vitz. If it doesn’t, see my other DIY.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician or an authorized Toyota installer. This is what worked for me. I am in no way responsible for you breaking, burning or otherwise destroying your car. If corrections need to be made to this guide, I will do so in my spare time. Feel free to PM me with suggestions/corrections/questions.

Note: While the stock Toyota instructions or not completely accurate for all generic installations, it was very helpful much of the wiring locations and bumper removal. Please use it as a reference.

The Toyota Guide

This is the box that arrived from an EBay seller in California. It's a respectable Taiwanese brand with a great OEM fit.







Remove the front bumper by following the Toyota factory instructions:


Layout the fog light harness:


Remove the factory inserts:


My bumper had some paint over spray that I had to peel off:


Slide the fog light assembly into the bumper slots:


Use the included screws to secure the other side of the assembly:


Plug in the passenger's side fog light:


Route the harness along the front bumper zip tying it to the factory harness along the way:


Secure the harness to the factory harness and plug in the driver's side fog light:


With a 10mm wrench, loosen the grounding bolt on the driver's side near the head light:


Attach the fog harness ground wire to the frame and retighten:


Just behind the driver’s side headlight, remove the cover to the fuse box. Route the harness from the bottom up alongside the stock harness:


Once the harness pokes through, pull all of the slack up. Don’t worry we are going to trim it to size:


The switch harness needs to be modified to function with the stock wiring. For the next step we have to cut out the red wire from relay connector. Clip the red wire close connector and pull it out:



I don’t know the “right” way to remove the white plastic connector. I just use a pair of diagonal cutters to snip off pieces until it fell off. When everything is said and done it should look like this:


Cut off the slack from the harness and use a butt splice to attach the new connector. Slide the metal end into either pin1 or pin2 of the connector shown below:


Put the cover back on the fuse box and reattach the front bumper:


OEM fit, gotta love it:


Pull down the hinged panel directly below the steering coulomb:


Remove the 2 screws that hold the panel on:


Remove the 2 screws that hold the kick plate:


Remove the screw near the steering wheel tilt lock lever:
[Picture Not Uploaded]

With the car turned on (power steering make this much easier) turn the wheel to the left and remove the screw:
[Picture Not Uploaded]

Now turn the wheel to the right remove the other screw:
[Picture Not Uploaded]

Turn off the car and pull the lower steering coulomb cover off:
[Picture Not Uploaded]

You will find the “D4” connector on the bottom left of the steering coulomb:


Pull the change cup out by pushing on the side. This will expose the fuse box:


Pull up the driver's side door rail and kick panel:


Unscrew the shift knob:


Pull up the parking brake and lift out the center switch plate. Push out the upper left blank:


Insert the new fog light switch and set the plate aside for later:


Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt in the cup holder in the center console:


Lifting from the back of the console, remove the center console assembly exposing the factory harnesses underneath:


Now we must finish modifying the aftermarket harness. Cut the 2 black and 1 solid blue wire as well. The blue/green wire will not be used. Remove the electrical tape holding the end of the harness together. Once everything is pulled apart you should have black, solid blue and solid green wires left in the harness. Use a butt splice to reconnect the 2 black wires. (sorry I forgot to take pictures of the final modified harness):


On the switch side, pull down the harness cover to expose the internal splice of the 2 green wires. Cut the green wire closest to the black wire. You may need to elongate this wire with some scrap wire so it can reach it’s connecting point:


It should look something like this (except the black wire should still be in the harness):


Route the harness alongside the shifter:


Under the carpet and up the dash on the driver’s side.


Along the stock steering wheel harness up to the “D4” connector:


Connect the blue and green wires to pin3 (yellow) and pin4 (white) of the “D4” connector:


Run the remaining black wire to the left most wall and down to the kick panel. I coiled the slack and strapped it to the ODBII port harness in front of the fuse box.


Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the grounding bolt and attach the black ground connector:


Install the relay in the empty socket to the right of the fuse box:
[Picture Not Uploaded]

Disconnect the green/white cable from the automatic shifter assembly:


Attach the green wire (closest to the black wire) that we cut out earlier from the fog switch harness to the green wire in the factory harness:


That’s it! Now that our wiring is done we can test your new fog lights for proper operation and reinstall all of the interior panels. After reassembling the center console, plug all of the harnesses back in:


Push the switch plate back into the center console to complete the job:



We now have fully functional OEM fit fog lights:


Night shots:



Fog indicator light in the instrument cluster:


Green LEDs replaced with white:

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The following is a shortened converation later in the post regarding a fog light OEM switch LED issue that was discovered.

Awesome! thanks for the effort, will be installing mine this weekend!

[CTScott]

Pin 3 and 4 go to nothing on the stalk (i.e. no pin on the stalk side). If you had an OEM stalk with the fog switch on it then it would those two pins and the fog switch would simply bridge them. Pin 3 goes to the negative side of the fog light relay and pin 4 is a headlight low beam switched ground.

Hopefully the ebay switch that you purchased is a four pin, not three pin illuminated switch, since the switching and illumination need to be separated.

[PROX4x4]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Pin 3 and 4 go to nothing on the stalk (i.e. no pin on the stalk side). If you had an OEM stalk with the fog switch on it then it would those two pins and the fog switch would simply bridge them. Pin 3 goes to the negative side of the fog light relay and pin 4 is a headlight low beam switched ground.

Hopefully the ebay switch that you purchased is a four pin, not three pin illuminated switch, since the switching and illumination need to be separated.

This is what I got from Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

It is four pin (I hope it is the right kind) . so from what I understand is that we switch pin #3 to the ground (which powers the foglights) and pin #4 powers the LED white they have a common ground?

Thanks!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by PROX4x4

This is what I got from Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

It is four pin (I hope it is the right kind) . so from what I understand is that we switch pin #3 to the ground (which powers the foglights) and pin #4 powers the LED white they have a common ground?

Thanks!

No. Jumping 3 to 4 turns the fog lights on.

The LED needs to be connected to the illumination circuit. If you connect it to the fog light switching circuit, the LED will remain on all the time (even when the ignition is off). If you look at the attached document, which I recently put together for the MI fog light kit, it shows where to connect the LED to the connector for the lighting for the AT shift lever (the feed is present on both AT and MT cars). The green wire is + and the white is -. By using this feed for the LED, it will only light when the headlight switch is on and will dim with the other interior lights when you adjust the dimmer rheostat.

[PROX4x4]

Originally Posted by CTScott

No. Jumping 3 to 4 turns the fog lights on.

The LED needs to be connected to the illumination circuit. If you connect it to the fog light switching circuit, the LED will remain on all the time (even when the ignition is off). If you look at the attached document, which I recently put together for the MI fog light kit, it shows where to connect the LED to the connector for the lighting for the AT shift lever (the feed is present on both AT and MT cars). The green wire is + and the white is -. By using this feed for the LED, it will only light when the headlight switch is on and will dim with the other interior lights when you adjust the dimmer rheostat.

Thanks! now that makes sense, I don't know why those manuals from after market foglights call for splitting pin#3 and switching the two pieces while the other end is open?.
Can i get the illumination power from under the dash? as I am planing on installing the switch where you have installed yours.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by PROX4x4

Thanks! now that makes sense, I don't know why those manuals from after market foglights call for splitting pin#3 and switching the two pieces while the other end is open?.
Can i get the illumination power from under the dash? as I am planing on installing the switch where you have installed yours.

For the LED power, under the dash you can use the dimmer rheostat connector. The light green wire is - and the brown wire is +.

[TRD_Yaris]

Thanks for all the great info and help, CTScott!!! I've been reading through this thread trying to decide which route I want to go, and you've saved me a bunch of questions and time.

[bambam28]

can someone tell me the part number for the OEM fog light switch? thanks!

[angelo6334]

Hi Im looking for the foglights to install on yaris. 2008 sedan 4 doors. Anyone knows where I can buy buy that kit thanks in advance

[auxmike]

Check with Garm from Micro Image. He sells all kinds of Yaris extras.

[angelo6334]

Thanks for the reply. I will check!!!

[adeen]

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Hi Guyz....Sry for digging up an old post but I need some help here....

Need some insight on installing the Esuse Fog Lamp...

Ive put the blue and green wire to the yellow and white wire....it does trigger the relay when my parking light is also on.

then the green and black to the green wire (at the AT shifter) and to the ground...

im having trouble at the A24 connector since pin 1 & 2 have already been used... i've tried the other pins and nothing seems to work...

what am I doing wrong? since my lights arent working