More Negative Camber Set-up - Toyota Yaris Forums

MUSKOKA800 · 08-01-2011, 06:55 PM

Anybody here have any experience with extra negative camber set-ups for street driving?

I need to do something to eleviate my tire to fender rubbing during aggressive turns, road dips and when the car is ladden with passengers. No problem at the rear, just the outer edge of the fronts.

I recall Loren stating that an extra -1.5 degrees from OEM spec. would be fine for street running. I'd be willing to go even further providing the car doesn't get all darty, which I suspect it might with the 215 tires. Especially in the deep truck ruts our highways and streets offer.

Who can suggest a reasonable starting set-up?
Perhaps I can cut a deal with a local alignment shop to make minor front camber adjustments so I can sample more than one setting while not paying for a full alignment job each try???

OR, perhaps I should just buy a magnetic camber gauge and go at it myself??? I did have the camber bolts installed back when I got my post lowering alignment done.

detroiter · 08-01-2011, 09:02 PM

Did you try doing the washer camber install yet? I'm not sure how exactly to do it but if you search on the forum here, I know someone did a write up on it.

MUSKOKA800 · 08-02-2011, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by detroiter

Did you try doing the washer camber install yet? I'm not sure how exactly to do it but if you search on the forum here, I know someone did a write up on it.

The washer install is for rear wheel camber setting. I'm good out back. It's up front where I have issues.

YarisSedan · 08-01-2011, 10:10 PM

You can do it with camber bolts. Jack the car off the ground and rotate the camber bolt with the wheel on you will see the wheel move in and out. When it gets to a certain point the bolt will sort of pop and the rotation will have reached its limit. You want to get it just right max at the most negative camber. Keep in mind anytime you change camber you will change caster which is a non adjustable item with out some sort of modified control arm. Also every degree of camber dramatically changes toe. It more than likely will cause you to have excessive toe out. A little bit is okay as it will help on turns but too much can cause your car to wander as well as cause tire wear.

What you can do is bring the car to an alignment shop and ask for a custom alignment. Tell them you want the max negative camber possible but set the toe to zero. Its something any tire shop can do. Make sure you ask for a before and after measurement printout.

johnny_vitz · 08-01-2011, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MUSKOKA800

Anybody here have any experience with extra negative camber set-ups for street driving?

I need to do something to eleviate my tire to fender rubbing during aggressive turns, road dips and when the car is ladden with passengers. No problem at the rear, just the outer edge of the fronts.

I recall Loren stating that an extra -1.5 degrees from OEM spec. would be fine for street running. I'd be willing to go even further providing the car doesn't get all darty, which I suspect it might with the 215 tires. Especially in the deep truck ruts our highways and streets offer.

Who can suggest a reasonable starting set-up?
Perhaps I can cut a deal with a local alignment shop to make minor front camber adjustments so I can sample more than one setting while not paying for a full alignment job each try???

OR, perhaps I should just buy a magnetic camber gauge and go at it myself??? I did have the camber bolts installed back when I got my post lowering alignment done.

I've got a bit over -2 degrees up front. I wouldn't recommend going much over -1.5, even then you might have some pulling in ruts and whatnot and accelerated wear on the inner edge of the tire. If you already have camber bolts up front, it would take a shop 1/2 hour to dial it in to whatever you want...you'd have to work out the amount they charge with them though. Do you know what it's sitting at now?

thebarber · 08-01-2011, 11:39 PM

i say camber bolts...

MUSKOKA800 · 08-08-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thebarber

i say camber bolts...

I have camber bolts already. The local tire shop installed them for me when I had my post-TRD installation alignment done.
I've often oggled the magnetic camber gauges seen on eBay and wondered if I couldn't put one to use.

Viperoni · 08-02-2011, 12:17 AM

Scott @ Can-alignment outside of Hamilton. Nuff said.

I'm running 1.5* in the front and 1.4* in the rear, 0 toe all around, sticks great.

johnny_vitz · 08-02-2011, 12:27 AM

905 - 690 - 3100

MUSKOKA800 · 08-02-2011, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viperoni

Scott @ Can-alignment outside of Hamilton. Nuff said.

I'm running 1.5* in the front and 1.4* in the rear, 0 toe all around, sticks great.

Thanks guy's! I'll contact Scott for an appointment. The website looks like what I'm after and he's conveniently close to Burlington.

EDIT: appointment set for next Tuesday afternoon. I'll update after that.

08-01-2011, 06:55 PM	#1
MUSKOKA800 Drives: Scion FRS RS2, ‘21 Crosstrek Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Chatham, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,729	More Negative Camber Set-up Anybody here have any experience with extra negative camber set-ups for street driving? I need to do something to eleviate my tire to fender rubbing during aggressive turns, road dips and when the car is ladden with passengers. No problem at the rear, just the outer edge of the fronts. I recall Loren stating that an extra -1.5 degrees from OEM spec. would be fine for street running. I'd be willing to go even further providing the car doesn't get all darty, which I suspect it might with the 215 tires. Especially in the deep truck ruts our highways and streets offer. Who can suggest a reasonable starting set-up? Perhaps I can cut a deal with a local alignment shop to make minor front camber adjustments so I can sample more than one setting while not paying for a full alignment job each try??? OR, perhaps I should just buy a magnetic camber gauge and go at it myself??? I did have the camber bolts installed back when I got my post lowering alignment done. __________________ TRD Upgrades: 18" Wheels wrapped in 215/35/18 PZero's, Sportivo Shocks/Struts, Lowering Springs, Swaybar, Axle-Back Exhaust, Oil Cap, Rad Cap, Signage. Aftermarket Goodies: Piggies SS, K&N Drop-In, Blitz S/C, DC Header, NST Pulley) Toyota Options/Accessories: Sport Pedal Covers, Sport Shift Knob, Ipod Interface, Summer Mats, Winter Mats, Cruise Control, Auto-Dim Mirror, Echo steelies with winter boots.

08-01-2011, 09:02 PM	#2
detroiter Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 1,238	Did you try doing the washer camber install yet? I'm not sure how exactly to do it but if you search on the forum here, I know someone did a write up on it. __________________ I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important.

08-01-2011, 11:39 PM	#6
thebarber daily driver View User's Garage Drives: the #wrecho Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Grand Rapids, MI Posts: 5,877	i say camber bolts... __________________

08-02-2011, 12:17 AM	#8
Viperoni Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Brampton, ON Posts: 505	Scott @ Can-alignment outside of Hamilton. Nuff said. I'm running 1.5* in the front and 1.4* in the rear, 0 toe all around, sticks great. __________________ 2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped

08-02-2011, 12:27 AM	#9
johnny_vitz Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 259	905 - 690 - 3100 __________________ 05' Echo Hatch - Greddy Supercharger - rear disc

08-01-2011, 10:10 PM	#4
YarisSedan Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: California - Bay Area Posts: 2,773	You can do it with camber bolts. Jack the car off the ground and rotate the camber bolt with the wheel on you will see the wheel move in and out. When it gets to a certain point the bolt will sort of pop and the rotation will have reached its limit. You want to get it just right max at the most negative camber. Keep in mind anytime you change camber you will change caster which is a non adjustable item with out some sort of modified control arm. Also every degree of camber dramatically changes toe. It more than likely will cause you to have excessive toe out. A little bit is okay as it will help on turns but too much can cause your car to wander as well as cause tire wear. What you can do is bring the car to an alignment shop and ask for a custom alignment. Tell them you want the max negative camber possible but set the toe to zero. Its something any tire shop can do. Make sure you ask for a before and after measurement printout.

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