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10-16-2014, 03:32 AM | #1 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Coolant flush procedure?
2009 Yaris sedan. What is the procedure for a total coolant flush? I'm talking inside the engine block, the heater core, the radiator... everything. I want to do it with a water hose or some method where you can do it yourself.
All the shops near me just want to do the radiator and nothing more. The dealership of course wants a fortune. So I'll just do it myself. Anyone know exactly how to go about it? Its got 110K on the odometer and its time for a full replacement of the coolant. |
10-17-2014, 12:03 PM | #2 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Anyone?
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10-17-2014, 12:31 PM | #3 |
Just drain and fill run car with rad cap off to let all air out or till u get heat out of vents ...yes u can do what ur saying but would have to remove the thermostat to have an open loop for water ...honestly don't bother just dain and fill and u will be fine with the Toyota pink stuff.
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10-17-2014, 12:43 PM | #4 |
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When you drain it you need to also open the tiny petcock on the back of the engine (it's a small brass nozzle and the knob for it uses a 10 mm socket). When you loosen it you drain the coolant from the block, which would not come out via the radiator's petcock. It is located right about in the center of the block, under the exhaust manifold and can be reached from the top (be super careful not to burn your hand/arm reaching back there).
I like to also drain and clean the overflow reservoir. To do that pull its hose off the radiator end and release it from the clips that hold it in place on the radiator. Hold it below the bumper and what's in there will flow out. Rinse it well and put the hose back on. Once the system is drained, you can flush it with water (some say you should only use deminerialized water when doing this). To flush it, close the radiator petcock and add water until it starts coming out the block petcock, then close that one as well and finish filling. You can then run the engine until the thermostat opens to circulate the clean water. Once the flush is done, drain the system again, and refill with the Toyota long life coolant. Again, first close the radiator petcock and fill until coolant comes out the block petcock, then close it and finish filling. Run the engine until the thermostat opens and keep running it and topping off until you no longer see bubbles. Finally add fluid to the proper line on the overflow reservoir and recap the radiator. After driving it for a couple of days, pop the cap (when cold) and add coolant if necessary, as sometimes additional air bubbles work their way out.
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10-17-2014, 12:50 PM | #5 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Here's a picture from under of the block petcock. It's actually silver, not brass colored as I was remembering it to be. And, it is definitely easier to access from above then from below.
Block Petcock.jpg
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10-17-2014, 01:30 PM | #6 |
I like Scotts way better :)
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10-18-2014, 05:03 PM | #7 |
Drives: 07SedanS06Taco Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SoCal, SanGabriel
Posts: 53
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A couple of questions.
Is the factory coolant safe to drain to the sewer? or where to you recycle it? How many gallons is required for a complete drain and fill? Thanks |
10-18-2014, 05:07 PM | #8 |
Recycle it for any shop should take it from u at no charge as for amount for the whole flush i say two jugs maybe.
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10-18-2014, 05:20 PM | #9 |
Drives: 07SedanS06Taco Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SoCal, SanGabriel
Posts: 53
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Didn't know shops take the used coolant like oil. Thanks for the info.
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10-23-2014, 03:02 PM | #10 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Thanks scott! What is the easiest way to reach that thing? It seems like you might need to get a tool in there. Because it will probably be hard to turn it by hand. I'm thinking a ratchet, an extension, and a wobble joint?
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10-23-2014, 03:28 PM | #11 |
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I find a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm socket is best for reach and access. It is torqued, so it is definitely not something you could turn by hand. What you are turning is just the bolt, the other part is the spigot.
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10-24-2014, 10:12 AM | #12 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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will be doing this before this winter. I'll likely use demineralized water for the flush. What is the total capacity of the cooling system when drained? I want to make sure I get a 50/50 mix correct and need to know how much demineralized water I should by to fill the system for the flush.
When I first purchased my Yaris used I just drained the rad and filled it with a generic Canadian tire long life coolant. The specs matched up fine in terms of composition of the fluid and what it recommended, however I would feel much better only having Toyota coolant i there as per everyone's recommendations on this forum. |
10-25-2014, 12:39 PM | #13 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Same here, I would like to know the capacity of the system if possible. If no one knows, you can always just mix small amounts, say 1 gallon at a time, and add until you can't add anymore. That way at least you'd know you had the correct mixture.
But one more question for scott. To be clear, you are saying to go in from the top, right? When opening the spigot for draining the coolant from the engine block. So I'll pop the hood and go in from there? Also will this be draining all the fluid out of the heater core as well? I guess that's two more questions. |
10-25-2014, 04:30 PM | #14 |
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Correct on accessing the spigot from the top of the engine. Opening that allows the heater core to drain, as it is higher than the spigot.
For capacity, the total is 5.1 quarts for a MT and 5.0 for an AT (because the AT loses space on the bottom of the radiator for the AT oil cooler).
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11-03-2014, 02:00 AM | #15 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Anyone know if you can buy it in one quart? If it takes 5, then when you buy a gallon you're one quart short. I looked but didn't see any.
Also, do you really have to use the pink toyota stuff? Do they sell anything like it at Oreillys or Autozone? I prefer genuine toyota, but sometimes there just isn't any difference. Sometimes. |
11-03-2014, 06:34 AM | #16 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
If you are going to go 100,000 miles without changing coolant, then I would stick with the OEM coolant, but if you are routinely going to change it (20-30K miles), then I don't see an issue with using others.
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11-03-2014, 09:35 AM | #17 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
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If you buy the red concentrated long life coolant it is only slightly more expensive for a gallon (~$5) and you mix it with water in the concentration you prefer. I mixed it in a 60/40 coolant/water concentration and I still have about 1/6 or so of coolant left over in the jug. Apparently the red doesn't contain Sabacic Acid (sp?) so it is not a "super" long life coolant just a long life.
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11-07-2014, 07:44 PM | #18 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Ok I found this. Is this what I should buy? It looks like it. They said its the red/pink stuff. And its not 50/50 which is good cause I'll get enough. It is pretty expensive though. Maybe it can be found cheaper somewhere else?
http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genuine.../dp/B004SL84Z0 |
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