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12-11-2014, 09:33 AM | #1 |
Drives: Yaris 2010 Manual Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: PR
Posts: 44
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Idle or Power Problem?
I have read a lot of threads about idle but never seen anything related to my problem.
My car without the A/C on idles at 600 rpm, when the cooling fan kicks in the rpm goes up to 800-900 and then to 600 (when the fan turns off). When the fan turns off, the rpm idle at 600 and the engine vibrates a lot until the fan kicks in and goes to 800-900. It does this cycle over and over. I did some troubleshooting: With the A/C on and lights On the vibration goes away (idle at 650-700 with fan off and 800-900 with fan on) With the A/C off but the lights on the vibration goes away (idle at 650-700 with fan off and stays pretty much the same with fan on) With the A/C off and the lights off the vibration occurs (idle at 600 with fan off and pretty much the same with fan on) Could this be something related to power? The last changes i made was cleaning the throttle and changing spark plugs Thanks in advance Last edited by duendeverde; 12-11-2014 at 09:50 AM. |
12-11-2014, 03:36 PM | #2 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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how bad is the vibration? I'd check your engine mounts just to clear that up first. My TB is clean and occasionally my Yaris will vibrate a bit when stopped at a light and it is revving around 500-600rpm. It goes away when the RPM's go up to 600 (does is automatically when vibrate starts) and will sometimes come back on when RPM's drop around 500.
If you clean your TB since the newerish Yari's have an electronic throttle, make sure you don't manually move the butterfly valve with your hand. Turn the ignition on (not the engine) and have someone depress the drivers pedal to pen butterfly. Doing so by hand can mess with the computer and throttle control |
12-11-2014, 05:09 PM | #3 |
Drives: Yaris 2010 Manual Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: PR
Posts: 44
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Vibration is noticeable, kind of awkward since the passenger seat shakes. I don't know if the butterfly valve was manually open, i didn't do the TB cleaning. I tried "resetting" the ECU by disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for a few minutes. That didn't work
The only thing that is working so far is leaving the night lights semi-on or fully-on, that seems to bump 50-100 more rpm and when idle it goes down to 650-700 and the vibration is gone I was thinking probably the battery or alternator since i bought the car (second hand 2010) and it has the factory battery A mechanic is going to check my car at sunday, I'll update the thread if something comes up, in the meanwhile i'm also going to install a AEM CAI, that would probably allow more air = little to none more rpm when idle (correct me if i'm wrong) |
12-11-2014, 06:05 PM | #4 |
Honestly its normal to a point on a yaris they sit at low idle 600 to 700
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12-11-2014, 06:24 PM | #5 |
Drives: Yaris 2010 Manual Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: PR
Posts: 44
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U r probably right, but the sudden vibration is what makes me look for a solution, from the first time i bought the car until last month = no vibration :/
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12-11-2014, 06:28 PM | #6 |
Good tune up could help, plugs clean the throttle body for sure and don't use cheap gas.
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12-12-2014, 04:14 AM | #7 |
Drives: Yaris 2012 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 15
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Got similar problem after 5k km. Vibration at idle (app 600rpm). Very annoying- particular waiting under traffic light and support head at vibrating headrest. Plus back massage in chair.
Reported at service several time. First time they clean Tbody. Worse -vibration switched from H frequency to low. Then Toyota service tell me" that is a normal" . Sorry. I am not paranoid. Similar to last service when my brake pedal starts to sink to floor. Service officer also tell mi is a normal. After bleed the system - problem vanish. Frankly, I do not know as vibration is normal or not . I never got similar in past in any car. Better petrol (98) gives slim improvement -but not resolves problem. I am very angry but powerless. Regret my decision to buy Yaris |
12-12-2014, 06:57 AM | #8 |
Drives: Yaris 2010 Manual Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: PR
Posts: 44
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As i was checking cables related to TB i found a buildup of oil near the alternator and timing belt, i have read some post here from a user Hershey telling about a common problem yaris 2010 with the head gasket, is this true? If it is, can this somehow affects compression in a way that the vibration i'm experiencing is caused by this? I'm thinking of buying a UV oil kit to see if the buildup is caused by changing the oil or an actual leak |
12-12-2014, 12:31 PM | #9 | |
Quote:
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12-12-2014, 12:36 PM | #10 |
As for brake pedal feeling low , main reason is seized up pads and pins yes bleed may help but honestly best cure is service ur front ,clean and make all move free and mainly adjust ur rear .
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12-13-2014, 02:02 PM | #11 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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I second the above post. If it's not a severe vibration then just let it be. My passenger seat shakes a bit when the rev's drop to 500 and it will go away when the Yaris automatically puts them back up to 600. If that's the only "problem" the Yaris has then I'm fine with that. It gets me 5.2L/100km highway, is easy to work on and has no major engine issues. My Fiancee's '02 Echo just hit 340,000km and it still going strong other then moderate oil consumption. If you want a super smooth car then I'd recommend upgrading past an economy line
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12-13-2014, 03:08 PM | #12 |
Drives: Yaris 2010 Manual Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: PR
Posts: 44
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New Update: I just finish installing an AEM intake, guess what? The vibration is gone :/ I also clean the maf sensor. So the problem could be the factory intake box (the whole thing including the big hose or a dirty maf sensor)
Note: It was not a severe vibration but since it started happening a month ago I think i'm not use to it |
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