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05-17-2016, 01:02 PM | #1 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Blitz S/C: new failure mode!
So I've been abusing my Blitz for around 3 years now, and it's given as many punches as it's taken. I've lost 2 aluminum crank pulleys in the last 12-15 months, 2 or 3 belts, and have a bad oil seal somewhere that results in my accessory belt area being coated in a light dusting of engine oil and rubber dust. Very dirty stuff to work with.
So the latest failure mode was the main bolt that goes through the OEM alternator mount shearing off between the mount and the Blitz bracket. The bolts are all-thread--which is less than ideal from a wear standpoint--but if I was that worried about it I could replace them with the right bolts. It's been working itself free every few months for the last year or so, and I just tightened it back up with whatever torque I could manage using a ratcheting box wrench. You can't get in there with a socket, and if you knock the protective cap off the alternator cable, you will blow your main fusible link. Don't ask how I know that... There's been a bit of noise up there as well, but I assumed that the looseness was the cause of the squealing/chirping, or that the tensioner pulley had a bad bearing. Or both. Turns out that the alternator was gummed up from the oil/rubber dust and wouldn't turn freely. The bolt at the top of the bracket had stripped out after about a year, and I haven't gotten around to removing the motor mount to get enough clearance to run a larger tap. I also didn't realize that there are two bolts that can go through the bracket into the end of the "neck" of the pulley. I got one of them to thread in, but for some reason neither of my kits had the right bolts to put in there in the first place. I'm sure that the tension I put on the belt is a significant factor, but even when it's slipping at 5k, it's still breaking other things. Pics: Last edited by CrankyOldMan; 05-22-2016 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Added pics |
05-17-2016, 04:50 PM | #2 |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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Wow. That sucks, Cranky. I hear so many bad things about these units. It's a shame really.
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05-17-2016, 10:39 PM | #3 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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05-17-2016, 06:02 PM | #4 |
What I thought I'd do was
Drives: 09 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northwest Alabama
Posts: 1,140
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What in the world do you do to your car? lol
My Blitz has been on for about 40k miles so far. I haven't had any problems out of it.
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My Nissan Hardbody (D21) 4x4 build log Check out my YouTube channel (mostly shooting) - http://www.youtube.com/user/47MasoN47 |
05-17-2016, 10:30 PM | #5 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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02-26-2017, 02:56 PM | #6 |
conundrum562
Drives: Toyota Yaris 2007 Type S Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 78
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Shit.... Mine is making some noises and I lubed it with WD40 seems to be running smoother now, but I think I have the exact same problem... HELP.... What should I do??? Before lubing that part the S/C was really laggy...
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--------------------------------------------------------------- BLITZ S/C|MICRO-IMAGE CRANK PULLEY|NST ALT;WATER PUMP PULLEY|BLITZ SUS SHORT RAM;HEADERS;AXLE-BACK EXHAUST|2.25 PIPING|1ZZ INJECTORS|OPTIMA YELLOW-TOP|GTSPEC FRONT STRUT;MID LOWER CHASSIS;4 PNT FRNT LOWER BRACE|WHITELINE REAR SWAY;BUSHINGS|TANABE FRNT SWAY|TRD LOWERING SPRINGS/SHOCKS|R1 CONCEPT DRILLED & SLOTTED ROTORS|EBC GREEN PADS|THROTTLE SPACER|XTREME PERFORMANCE CHIP MOD |
02-26-2017, 03:49 PM | #7 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Geeze, that's why I optend for the 2zr...Yota reliability and less having to deal with parts contunuing to fail. Boosting an engine never meant for boost is always a constant project from what I've read. It also doesn't help that with Toyota's ECU's you can't just re write the engine tune, you have to run a darn piggy back.
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
02-26-2017, 08:05 PM | #8 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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I think we have it sorted out. It's the idler pulley, which is just a double-sealed unit. Off the shelf replacement with a 6301 series. Well, at least we hope that's the fix. If not, the other bearings all require a non-trivial tear down to replace.
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03-10-2017, 11:53 PM | #9 |
conundrum562
Drives: Toyota Yaris 2007 Type S Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 78
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Anyone had this problem? Listen to that sound, is it the tensioner bearing?
See link below: View My Video
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--------------------------------------------------------------- BLITZ S/C|MICRO-IMAGE CRANK PULLEY|NST ALT;WATER PUMP PULLEY|BLITZ SUS SHORT RAM;HEADERS;AXLE-BACK EXHAUST|2.25 PIPING|1ZZ INJECTORS|OPTIMA YELLOW-TOP|GTSPEC FRONT STRUT;MID LOWER CHASSIS;4 PNT FRNT LOWER BRACE|WHITELINE REAR SWAY;BUSHINGS|TANABE FRNT SWAY|TRD LOWERING SPRINGS/SHOCKS|R1 CONCEPT DRILLED & SLOTTED ROTORS|EBC GREEN PADS|THROTTLE SPACER|XTREME PERFORMANCE CHIP MOD |
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