Clear coat blistering on roof

[RMcG]

The clear coat on the roof of my light blue Yaris is blistering. It is about 9 years old.

Is this problem very common? Is there anything I can or should do?

Thanks,

R.

[dogsridewith]

join the club. when, say hanging about the car chatting w/ a friend, scratch off the loose edges. (on my red hatch's hatch, they're cup shaped and the dew fills them w/ dirt.)
my interest is finding a way to remove the clear coat without removing the base coat. Then using what is best for a one shot red respray...no reason for fine finish. Just want non-distracting protection. The peeling sunburn look really stands out, and varies wiith the weather and lighting.

[scylla]

I got a 2015. I did notice the paint isn't the thickest out there. Seems a bit cheap.

I wonder if an application of a paint sealant like this would ward off what you guys are getting.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010R2JCG8...irtoolguy0a-20

[RMcG]

I actually found some info, including on this forum, by Googling:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53859

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43611

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27480

https://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota..._peeling.shtml

This is exactly what my car looks like:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciZYkl9UJFs

Here is some stuff on fixing peeling clear coat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgMr6zsPI6k

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbSIjsUeWZQ

R.

[dogsridewith]

Thanks for the search. I read all the posts, but didn't watch the youtubes. Anyone: If you ever encounter a tip on just removing the remaining clearcoat layer without hurting the base or primer (if there is a primer layer), kindly pass it along as a post on one of these Yaris clearcoat threads.
I don't care much about the peeling sunburn look, but want to protect the base coat and don't want to strip down to metal. Problem w/ scratching off the loose edges of the clear and then rattle-can shooting the large base-exposed areas is that the new paint over progressively releasing remaining clearcoat would create another type of flaking problem to deal with--maybe stiffer red-over-clear flakes that might curl and bubble but not want to break off.
(Guessing clearcoat problem may originate w/ solvent -free water-base paint chemistries used for environmental reasons?)

[knobby bobby]

You can sand gently with an electric sander. I would use 600 grit and keep the sander moving. If you sand too aggressive you will see the primer underneath. I would recommend using 3M sandpaper.

Get the surface of the roof as uniform as possible, The flakes are high spots
Another words you need to make those flakes blend in or disappear in the surface of the roof.

Once you have the roof scuffed up you can wipe down with acetone and a lint free rag. After that you wipe down with a cheesecloth. Thats a tacky rag that will pick up particulate. Do not touch surface with bare hands. The oil from your skin will contaminate the surface. Mask out the rest of the car. You can use newspaper. I recommend shooting the base color of the vehicle with no clear coat. That means you will be shooting the paint and no clear coat.

The color of the paint is determined by the paint code which should be located I think on the drivers side door. Check with Toyota if needed. Go to a reputable automotive paint store and tell them the color code and manufacturer of the vehicle and they will mix the paint for you. I recommend using Nason. It's an affordable Dupont product at the fraction of the cost. Shoot inside if possible and if its below 50 degrees you will need reducer which is paint thinner to get the paint through the gun. However if you are 70 degrees or above you will need a minimal amount of reducer to get the paint through the gun.

You can buy a cheap Husky gun at home depot for 29 dollars and it will get the job done. You can buy your acetone at home depot too. DO NOT USE PAINT THINNER FROM HOME DEPOT. You must use automotive reducer.

Do multiple thin coats and wait 15 -20 minutes between coats. Try not to exceed 2 coats.By shooting the base color without the clear it will match the color of the car perfect without any reoccurring issues of clear peeling.

You can use a 2 gallon compressor to do the job. Have fun and remember to wear a good breather.Use 3M and the 3M filters for your breathing protection. Most important.
Have fun and enjoy your new finish

[RedRide]

FWIW.....

My ' 09 HB has severe clear coat blistering and pealing on the roof, the hatch , and in many other areas..... including the mirrors.
It started about a year ago and is now a real disaster.

I live in an apt complex and there is a great, highly regarded body shop right across the road from me. They did some work on my Celica a few years back and I was very impressed with their work... color matching etc.

So, yesterday I discussed my options with the body shop owner and.... we agreed on on a plan of action .

They are going to address all paint issues and replace some trim pieces (such as the rubber roof molding strip) that should be replaced.
It is not going to be cheap but, keep in mind that It only has about 16,500 miles it and it's almost like new mechanically.
So, it's well worth spending some cash on it .
Also, I'm retired and I really like my Yaris. :)

Anyway, today I dropped the car off at the body shop and in about two weeks... I will have an essentially new looking Yaris.

[RedRide]

Update on my paint/clear coat repairs......

I got my Yaris back from the Body shop today. It looks great !

The owner (who has be in business for for over twenty years) told me that the in his opinion it was not bad prep at the factory in Japan.

He thinks it is the result or either bad clear coat that they used, or they applied a very thin coat of clear coat in some areas.

In my case it was mainly the top, upper door frames, hatch back, rear quarter panels . and mirrors.

The doors, hood , front fenders, and both bumpers were fine though.
So I tend to believe that it was just a too thin coat of clear coat applied in some areas

[doc wheezer]

Originally Posted by RedRide

Update on my paint/clear coat repairs......

I got my Yaris back from the Body shop today. It looks great !

The owner (who has be in business for for over twenty years) told me that the in his opinion it was not bad prep at the factory in Japan.

He thinks it is the result or either bad clear coat that they used, or they applied a very thin coat of clear coat in some areas.

In my case it was mainly the top, upper door frames, hatch back, rear quarter panels . and mirrors.

The doors, hood , front fenders, and both bumpers were fine though.
So I tend to believe that it was just a too thin coat of clear coat applied in some areas

Same thing happen to my 09 Yaris in Carmine Red. It killed me to see happening to one of the best cars I owned.
While you have stated it wasn't cheap. What kind of price are we talking about.
Cheap tends to be a relative term. What's cheap or expensive to one may or may not be to another.

[M4One]

How much did it cost?

[RedRide]

Originally Posted by M4One

How much did it cost?

It wasn't cheap but, to me it was well worth it .
My '09 Yaris has only has about 16,700 miles on it and mechanically, it is still like new.

The clear coat however was in really bad shape..
I got really tried and disgusted looking at it the way the paint was.
I did not even feel like washing it anymore.

I also really like my Yaris for my retirement vehicle as it's piratical and economical.. ...and still love the way it looked with good paint .

So, to me it was a judgement call.

It now looks like almost like new again....... like it did before the clear coat stated to peal and blister .... like in these pics taken about a year ago, before the paint went to hell... :)
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58517

[dogsridewith]

+1...NY is my neighbor, and I'd make a long day trip for a functional red respray. (zero rust or dents involved, and I'd enjoy doing some masking.)

[justjesus]

I tried different things to slow/stop the clear coat failure on my Yaris. Nothing worked. Roof clear is just about gone. Some spots here and there left.

The hatch is starting go just below the glass, near the edges.

You could still add a wee bit of UV protection to protect the base color, but I wouldn't consider it a life saver. Optimum Polymer Tech make a neat spray wax called Car Wax. As generic as it sounds, it's a good product. They are the same people that made Rinseless Car Washing popular (at least among the detailers). Easy to use, and it has patented UV protection.

Myself, I've just about stopped caring and will look to have the car resprayed....maybe.

With 160,000 plus and counting....Not sure if I should just call it a loss and get something new.

BUT I LOVE the yaris.

Still get good MPGs.

Still running stock OEM:
-brakes (For real. And that's with autoX, canyons, daily driving...)
-ALL engine componets
- A/C system

I've only replaced the serpentine belt, and a wheel bearing. Well, and tires!

Anyway...clear coat. I'm still debating waiting for the roof's clear coat to completely fall off, giving it a light polish to clean things up, then spray it with rattle can clear coat. I may. Who knows. If I do....I'll post a thread and pics

And yes, Toyota paint is cheap. In So Cal, I'm noticing toyota's crappy paint on most of their line up, not just the econobox yaris

[RedRide]

I tried different things to slow/stop the clear coat failure on my Yaris. Nothing worked. Roof clear is just about gone. Some spots here and there left.

The hatch is starting go just below the glass, near the edges....

Yeah mine was about the same... mainly the roof, door tops, and the rear hatch that started by the top edge by the glass.
Keep in mind that car painting is now done by robot painters and evidently the programing for the robot gives it a too thin coat in those areas.

With the repaint in the effected areas I can now see that it has a much thicker coat of color and clear paint than the factory paint job.

My mirrors need a repaint because the color and clear coat were both ridiculously thin. They now look better than from the factory.

BTW, both bumpers are not effected. Both have heavy coats of paint from the factory.
Keep in mind that the bumpers are painted separately from from body.

[DarkShadowFox]

i bought my car new and washed it, claybarred it, and used chemical guys butter wet wax. it hasnt peeled or done anything and its been subject to all seasons and bird poop. if its bubbling you can sand/ polish it down and respray it. paint gun and stuff can be had from stores/ the internet for cheap but your gonnan eed a compressor, cans are a little less expensive. a shop would be a good investment, if your DIY skill can be had from youtube. unfortunely these were designed as city cars first and light commuting and a cheap economy car, so your going to have things like that.

[justjesus]

Originally Posted by RedRide

Yeah mine was about the same... mainly the roof, door tops, and the rear hatch that started by the top edge by the glass.
...
My mirrors need a repaint because the color and clear coat were both ridiculously thin. They now look better than from the factory.

BTW, both bumpers are not effected. Both have heavy coats of paint from the factory.

Sounds pretty much the same as mine. Same spots affected

Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox

i bought my car new and washed it, claybarred it, and used chemical guys butter wet wax.

Butter Wet Wax may have been one of the first three waxes I bought. And it's the only one I'd consider chucking in the garbage. Smells great, looks pretty good on the car, but just didn't last more than a week in my case.

If it's working out for you, though, keep using it :)

I ended up selling all my chemical guys products except the clay bars.

Your car being white, I wonder if Toyota was still using single stage paint (no clear coat) on it. With some white, some MFGs still use single stage paint systems instead of base coat/ clear coat systems

[RedRide]

I hesitate to post a price because body shop prices can vary widely by location and you would have to know exactly what was done.. There are cut rate paint jobs and those that are done correctly.

Also , there would always be those who would say I got ripped off... even those who would say I could have repainted my car myself.

Keep in mind that my car only has about 17k miles on it and was/is otherwise like new.

[Hamster]

RedRide I'm blown away by your low mileage. And I thought I was bad. I have a 2009 as well, and I got only about 28,000 miles on it at the time of this writing. It's because I take public transportation to work. When you drive almost exclusively on the weekends, it's tough to put on a lot of miles.

Anyway, go ahead and list your price. I'm curious. And no, just because it's expensive, doesn't mean you were ripped off. You get what you pay for. A real rip off would be if you got it repainted for a low, low price, and the clear coat started peeling off a couple years later. Also, just curious, but do you store your car outdoors? I keep my car garaged, and the paint still looks like brand new. For years, I've also been getting my car professionally detailed twice a year, so that no doubt helps as well.