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08-13-2020, 01:26 PM | #1 |
Axle Seal Issues
Hey YarisWorld brethren - I've been having an issue with my driver's side, transmission side axle seal. The OEM seal gave out and I replaced it with a new seal from Toyota. A couple short test drives didn't produce a drop of trans fluid but yesterday, a longer drive had it leaking out again. It's a little disappointing because it looked like we had the new seal in really nicely.
I'm going to do the job again and to that end, have started searching the forum for any tips/tricks, like depth specs for the seal. While I do that, and search other sources online (going to try and find a Toyota resource on performing the job), I thought I'd drop a post here in the DIY in case anyone had any nuggets of advice they'd care to offer. Thanks! |
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08-13-2020, 06:59 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 521
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Yeah, I've seen the seal surface on cv axles that are under sized. Have you replaced that axle in the past?
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08-14-2020, 05:27 PM | #3 |
Hey, thanks for the reply. No, it's the original, factory axle. About 84k miles on it. Having spoken to a service tech over in the UK that follows me on Instagram, I've learned that there is a depth spec for the seal going into the transmission casing. The image below is what he provided me. I've also since learned from former super user, Tom A., that the point where the axle mates with the seal can get worn after many miles, so pushing the seal a bit further in than the OEM spec is sometimes advisable. Hoping to get it buttoned up properly this next time around and am still very open to any suggestions from anyone willing to offer any.
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08-14-2020, 09:47 PM | #4 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Way back when, my mechanic had to pull the axle to rotate the engine forward to remove my exhaust manifold. The seal was slightly damaged when the axle went back in. I had a continuous drip and a bit faster, of course, when the atf was hot. I don't think it's an uncommon occurrence to nick them or slightly damage them on install. I picked up an OE one and he installed it and I had no more leaks.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
08-18-2020, 11:30 AM | #5 | |
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08-18-2020, 02:25 PM | #6 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Yes, I will have my mother-in-law send out prayers for your axle seal. I personally don't put a lot of stock in the power of prayer, but it seems to have worked wonders for us in a few circumstances. Other than that, good luck, man!
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
08-20-2020, 07:52 PM | #7 |
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08-24-2020, 04:19 PM | #8 |
Update on this - there seems to be some confusion around how to install this seal. I was provided some pictures of the depth specs for this seal (posted above) by a mechanic in the UK who personally owns a variety of Toyotas (MK4 Supra, Starlet, MKI Yaris). Those images show the seal being installed with an SST tool, and there are other threads on the forum indicating an SST tool is required. Despite all that, it doesn't appear that using a tool is the end all method.
There is a sleeve area on the transmission casing where the axle seal sits. Just behind that space is a step/lip. You do not want to push the seal in beyond that lip and you can get the seal into the sleeve evenly by hand relatively easily. Using a tool, like a large socket or bearing press, seems to increase the chances of both damaging the new seal and pushing it past the lip in the transmission casing. In our experience, the hand method provides more control with less risk of damage to the new seal. Without having seen the official SST tool, I assume it has a stopper/safety that pushes the seal in to the desired depth and won't let you push it further, but the SST tool has been discontinued and the part number now calls up a bearing press tool, which does not have a stopper/safety. Pics of the transmission casing and hand pressed in seal below. Several test drives later and not a drop of gear oil on my garage floor. A former forum member I consulted with while doing the job also found this YouTube video of the seal being installed on C50 transmission in another Toyota model. That video also claims that simply pressing the seal in by hand is the way to go. Lastly, I know a mechanic who we called while doing the job who also said the seal just sits in the transmission casing sleeve and can be pushed in evenly by hand. Hope this helps someone someday! |
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08-24-2020, 10:08 PM | #9 | |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Awesome information! I wonder if it's the same for the automatic. I haven't checked it yet, but one of the reasons my new red RS failed inspection was due to the passenger side axle. I will likely have a seal on standby. A question for you, Ernie..have you changed your gear box oil? It's one of the things on my maintenance list.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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08-25-2020, 03:31 PM | #10 | |
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Prior to the axle seal issues, I hadn't considered changing it. You'll find threads and posts across the forum where people have differing opinions about whether or not it's necessary. The job is easy enough, though. One bolt to drain, one bolt to fill. The most challenging part, which wasn't all that challenging at all, was Frankenstein'ing two funnels into one so it was long enough to reach the fill hole from the top of the engine. I bought the longest regular funnel Pep Boys had, along with one of those funnels that has a bendable tube and close valve on it. I pulled the tube off the second funnel and attached to the longer funnel. That gave me the length I needed to fill from above. We didn't want to mess around with a pump as that can get messy (as if things on my garage floor haven't been messy enough!). |
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08-25-2020, 07:13 PM | #11 | |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
__________________
2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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08-26-2020, 07:24 PM | #12 | |
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Having said that, I've made several drives with the car having the Valvoline oil in it (not even the synthetic stuff, just the regular $6 a quart variety) and it feels great. I've read nothing but positive remarks about Amsoil in other threads across the forum so I was thinking about trying that but after driving the car for a bit with the basic Valvoline oil in it, I'm starting to reconsider if it's even worth the time and money to flush again. I might just run the Valvoline for a while longer and see how it goes. |
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06-04-2024, 11:40 PM | #13 |
Ya that was fun.
There was a spit seal on the passenger cv outboard. Done. New, passenger axel. Oh, oops. I split the seal on the differential seal. Ya, so taking out again and put it back again, for the new seal. Yipee! lol Two things make to make it best: 1. Pull the axel out on 2 positions to pull it out. One won't do it. 2. Flush the seal only so far as of the case. Do not push it too far.
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- The Black Ship Yaris - |
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