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12-31-2008, 08:32 PM | #1 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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DIY Rear Drum Brake Adjustment/Parking Brake W/ PICS Inside
Make sure you have all the proper tools before you start. You can use your lug nut removal tool and floor jack that came with your car but it makes more hassle removing everything from your car and putting it back plus its not as efficient as using a real floor jack and breaker bar. Now that you have all your tools park your car on the most level surface you can find and leave the parking brake off. Position the floor jack directly under the lift point. If you look under the car you will see 2 notches where the jack can sit securely. Jack up the rear of the car whichever side you decide you want to start first. Make sure the tire is not completely off the ground as the tire will spin when you try to remove the lug nuts. Using your breaking bar and socket turn it counter clock ways with a jerking motion and spin it about a full 360 turn to make sure they are properly loose. Once this is done now you can jack up the car till the wheel is about 1 inch off the ground. Now that the wheel is off you may have trouble removing the drum. This is where the screwdriver comes in. You can utilize the 2 screw holes and insert 2 bolts and ratchet them in till the drum pops off. More than likely though since the drum is loose and you are going to make it tighter this should not be necessary. Just take your screwdriver and insert it in between the drum and backing plate and twist and it should pop off. If it dose not come off try in opposing sides slowly till it comes out. Once the drum is removed clean out all the dust inside the drum and wash out dust on your brake parts with plain water from a garden hose or spray bottle. I don't recommend any chemical cleaners as it will clean off the lubrication grease between the backing plate and brake shoe and to re lube it will require another DIY. Simple water and letting it air dry will suffice. Once everything has dried put the drum bake on securely and rotate it clockwise. It should spin approx 360 degrees and stop. The more rotations will help you gage how much you will need to adjust it till it rotates only 360. Now locate the star wheel. It is at the upper portion right below the wheel cylinder. Take your screwdriver again and push it forward toward the backing plate 2 clicks. Put the drum back on and spin it. Take it off and adjust 2 clicks more. Keep doing this till you get satisfactory results. Perfect adjustment you should hear the brake shoe ever so slightly rubbing against the inside of the drum as you spin it and it should fall short of a full spin. Once you get this result you are done. Put the drum back on and the wheel back in place. Screw on all the lug nuts hand tight. Then while the wheel is off the ground still take your breaker bar and jerk it clockwise while holding the wheel. Making sure they are decently snug. Then lower the vehicle down and use your torque wrench and torque all 4 nuts down to 76ft pounds. Repeat same procedure on the other wheel. Once you are done test your parking brake. It should feel firm and go up about 3 clicks. Now go out and enjoy your better feeling brake pedal, decreased stopping distance and properly operating parking brake.
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Last edited by YarisSedan; 03-19-2010 at 08:30 PM. |
12-31-2008, 08:56 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2005 Scion xB Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Black Hills of South Dakota
Posts: 1,059
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Nice... People should know that the "star wheel" easily clicks in only one direction. If you go to far it's a kind of PIA to get it back in. I suppose with the drum off it's easy, but if you do this without removing the wheels by going through the small rubber plug on the inside of the hub, you cannot back them off if you go to far. Just a FYI...
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12-31-2008, 08:59 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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Nice job, but might have missed a few things;
You should add to make sure the tranny is in "P" or in gear on a 5 speed to avoid the car rolling away. Also,chock the wheels and use jackstands. Twisting a screwdriver between the drum and backing plate is a good way to BEND up the plate. I would'nt use water to clean the braking system components, never heard of that way. |
01-01-2009, 03:32 AM | #4 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Quote:
The reason i dont suggest a solvent is because it will clean off the grease that is lubricating the backing plate and you may have squeeking after the service is performed. My profession during the day is a mechanic so i woudlnt suggest anything that would be harmful to your car or what tricks mechanics do on a daily basis. I am just providing my own DIY to help forum members. If you dont agree with it then you may post your own version. This is my first chance to give back to the community.
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01-01-2009, 04:18 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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I still don't recommend prying anything against a stamped steel backing plate.
I've done it in the past and bent the plate so it rubbed the drum casting. A real PITA to bend back in proper shape too. Heck, I've seen drums on so tight they required a torch to CUT them off! |
12-31-2008, 09:00 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2005 Scion xB Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Black Hills of South Dakota
Posts: 1,059
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All good points...
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01-01-2009, 04:25 AM | #7 |
I guess I dont understand what this is supposed to do, tighten your rear brakes to take stress from the fronts?
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01-01-2009, 04:55 AM | #8 | |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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Quote:
This can be tricky to do for a first timer. Don't screw around with brakes unless you are real confident about what you are getting into. I did this procedure myself after noticing my handbrake lever going up real high when pulled. As he said, go from the FRONT to adjust not from the rubber plug in the back. That way you'll know right away if the shoes are too open since the drum won't slide on. I used compressed air to remove all the dust eaisily without wetting anything at all. You should NOT use compressed air because that dust is BAD and gets into your nostrils real easy. I only did it because I was outside in the open air. After the adjustment the brakes felt much better. I know these cars are supposed to have self adjusting brakes, but I've yet to see one of those systems that works as allegedly designed without a little "help" from a screwdriver..... |
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01-01-2009, 05:07 AM | #9 | |
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Okay, that clears it up, I replaced the pads on a friends civic, and it has the same 'type' of system and I adjusted from the back (PITA), but I never really understood what it did, I just did it untill it felt right. |
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01-03-2009, 05:37 PM | #10 |
Joey
Drives: '14 Scion xD 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: El Monte, Ca
Posts: 3,529
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Good thread. But I'm suppose to re-adjust/re-tighten the e-brake today, so how exactly would I take off the the drum housing without bending it? And also, what's the best way to clean-off the brake dust without removing any important grease? Thanks.
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Formerly owned Met-Met. '07 Yaris LB 5-speed. A forum post should be like a skirt: Long enough to cover the subject but short enough to keep things interesting. "I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem." -Hank Hill |
04-28-2009, 07:57 PM | #11 | |
Quote:
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Going from drift to grip... 07 Yaris LB 5spd AE86 Corolla GTS 5spd http://microimage.ning.com/ http://www.microimageonline.com/store.html |
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01-04-2009, 03:05 PM | #12 |
I believe you can tighten just the e-brake inside the floor console between the seats under the brake handle.
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01-04-2009, 05:01 PM | #13 |
Drives: yaris 08 sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 1,286
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I thought everything adjusts when you apply the brakes when backing up.
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01-06-2009, 07:18 AM | #14 |
Joey
Drives: '14 Scion xD 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: El Monte, Ca
Posts: 3,529
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This thread is golden. Just did mine over the weekend on my own with the help here. Thanks for starting this, YS
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Formerly owned Met-Met. '07 Yaris LB 5-speed. A forum post should be like a skirt: Long enough to cover the subject but short enough to keep things interesting. "I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem." -Hank Hill |
01-06-2009, 09:49 PM | #15 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Awsome. You should do this about every 6 months. Or whenever you rototate your tires. You will be amazed how much dust is in there every time you take the drum off.
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01-07-2009, 08:41 PM | #16 |
Joey
Drives: '14 Scion xD 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: El Monte, Ca
Posts: 3,529
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Was more than amazed. This was one of jobs that ended with a shower...
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Formerly owned Met-Met. '07 Yaris LB 5-speed. A forum post should be like a skirt: Long enough to cover the subject but short enough to keep things interesting. "I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem." -Hank Hill |
01-07-2009, 08:45 PM | #17 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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LOL this is why all auto shops are required to have a osha approved brake cleaner system. Which is a big drum that wheels under the brakes and a long brush that has a solvent that comes out of it. So you can gently brush away the dust without it going all over the place like into your lungs.
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01-11-2009, 02:32 AM | #18 | |
Joey
Drives: '14 Scion xD 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: El Monte, Ca
Posts: 3,529
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Quote:
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Formerly owned Met-Met. '07 Yaris LB 5-speed. A forum post should be like a skirt: Long enough to cover the subject but short enough to keep things interesting. "I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem." -Hank Hill |
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