T Montague's 2zr swap - '08 m/t sedan some extra info

[tmontague]

Alright, time for my thread to be started up. I will be starting this swap in 2 weeks during my reading week off school. I don't have a garage (just a 2 car wide short driveway) so I'm using the winter temps to not have to deal with rain. Thankfully the weather is hovering around 0-5 below Celsius so I'll hopefully avoid the "polar vortex" we had the past couple years.

Thanks to the help of the others that have already completed the swap and their willingness to pass along info, I've been able to slowly purchase the specific parts that I need.

I was able to pick up a 2zr from an auto trans '11 Corolla with 89k km on it for $600 CAD from a local yard near me. I stripped down the block and painted it to keep it clean and protect it. I installed an oil catch can as the PCV valve is hidden behind the intake manifold and it is easier to install with the engine pulled.

I'm installing a Luk Corolla clutch and aftermarket but oem weight flywheel.
My engine harness was pulled from an '08 xd m/t with a/c for an unreal price (thanks to Cranky for finding that gem and shipping me the parts). It was in great shape except for one of the engine knock sensor wires being broken. I just fixed the wire and should be good to go.

Here are the parts that I purchased for this swap - I'll add part numbers once everything it complete.
-2zr long block
-2zr a/c compressor
-2zr alternator
-xd m/t engine harness with a/c
-passenger side and driver side engine mount and bracket
-2zr clutch
-2zr flywheel
-2zr flywheel bolts
-xd maf sensor
-xd air box (top only, as yaris bottom box is compatible)
-xd top radator hose plus 4" straight piece
-xd coolant filler neck
-xd non immobilier '08 ecu (my yaris has an immo, but I'm bypassing it)
-2zr a/c compressor bolts (still unsure if 1nz bolts will also work)
-2zr timing chain tensioner gasket (commonly leaks so figured I'd change it)
-2zr drive belt for a/c
-2zr engine hooks front and rear





When I picked up my engine I put it in a stand and checked as much as I could to see what kind of shape it was in. Plugs were clean and in fine shape (iridium), cams and rockers looked clean with zero sludge under the valve cover, valves are stained but smooth and clean, oil wasn't dirty and has no metal shavings in it. Minimal rust on the bolts on the block.

My original plan was to go with the RPM long tube header and get a local exhaust shop to fabricate my current custom 2.25" exhaust to fit it. Due to the cost as well as DD drive ability (exhaust hitting firewall issues) I decided to just clean up the oem header and paint it with black ceramic paint. There is a DC header for the 2zr but online report have minimal improvements over oem. Basically, if you're going to spend the cash for an aftermarket header spend it on the RPM long tube. It just isn't as simple as a plug and play like other headers.

I'll just have the exhaust shop weld on a new ball joint flange so that it will properly fit on the 2zr header.

I'll update this thread with pics this week and I'll document how the swap goes. This is my first engine swap and I'm doing it solo (although I have the online help of others on here who have done the swap before) I have a pretty decent amount of experience working as a shade tree mechanic and I have a good amount of tools including air tools.

I'll be jacking the front of the car up and placing jack stands under the frame rails (just the front). This will allow me access to everything I'll need for the swap.

I'll be removing the front bumper, crash bar and radiator so that the engine removal and install will be much easier.

Wish me luck!

[SirDigby]

are you going to do anything with the cooling system? is the yaris radiator big enough? do you need to change fans?
why a wiring harness for a manual with an automatic transaxle?

[tmontague]

The rad has proved adequate enough for use on the track and auto x as per Armstrong racing's swap and others so I'll be keeping the oem rad in. I'm pretty sure the xd has the same rad as the Yaris and the xd comes from the factory with the 2zr.

My car in a m/t so I have a harness from a m/t xd. My engine was pulled from an a/t but I've removed the pressure plate and installed a flywheel so I'll be using it as a m/t.

I'm running the oem yaris trans I'm not using the xd trans

[tmontague]

Started on the car this morning for a few hours before work. Tomorrow will start my full days until it is complete. I got all the fluids drained and much of the front end off the car.

Some aftermarket wires to remove and one or two more cross braces. Then the hoses and wiring harness to be diconnexted from the body (pulling it with engine) then I'll be ready to remove the 1nz.

I should at least have the 1nz pulled by tomorrow, crossing my fingers I'll have the 2zr mounted by night fall but we'll see.

As a side, all of the bolts on the front end of my yaris were in great shape and not rusted really at all.

They were all covered in a thin film of the Krown oil, definitely will continue with this every year, makes working on a 9 year old car much easier

This is where I left off after around 3 hours.


My shed is all the way in the backyard which makes for long set up and clean up times as opposed to having a garage to do this in.

[IllusionX]

Oh wow! Can't wait to see the final product


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[WeeYari]

Weather Gods sure be smiling on you this weekend.

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

Weather Gods sure be smiling on you this weekend.

it's been unreal, planned to do it now to avoid rain and just deal with cold...turns out I don't have to deal with either!

[tmontague]

First full day, spent about 11 hours including set up and clean up which was easily 1.5 hours of the day since I have to assemble to engine hoist on my drive way and then disassemble it to store it between my house (narrow space between house so I can't fit it fully assembled)

Started with clearing more of the the frame as well as lights and then all of the electrical wires and hoses etc



Got it to this point after a couple hours and then started assembling my hoist to pull the 1nz.







I never ended up replacing the sway bar bushings as the oem ones are still in excellent stiff shape. I would've had to pull the steering rack to access the bolts for the bushings and it would've been a waste of valuable time

I depressurized the fuel system when I set my car up on the drive way. I just pulled the EFI2 fuse and the car shut off virtually right away. I tried pulling the EFI1 fuse but that did nothing and the car kept running (weird?)

This meant there was very little fuel spill when I diconnected the fuel line. A paper towel was more than enough to catch what little was there. I had my a/c discharged at my mechanic's shop for $40 so removing the a/c lines was no issue.

Once the 1nz was on the drive way I needed the bell housing bolts (9 in total including the 2 starter bolts) as well as the pressure plate bolts. I separated the trans from the 1nz and then got to work installing my new flywheel and clutch onto the 2zr. I also cleaned off the internals of the trans housing as well as the splines and shift fork. All the grease was gone and everything has a light coat of mild surface rust. The lack of grease is likely why I had a squeak when I depress the clutch (yes, I lubed the shift linkages and the squeak still persisted)



Once the flywheel was properly torqued down (38 ft/lbs and then 90 degree turn) I installed the friction disc and pressure plate (14ft/lbs) and then greased all of the contact points up. The old throwout bearing was still in decent shape but was starting to have some play in it. The new one was more solid feeling and smoother as expected.

My clutch was on it last legs...one side of the clutch was worn down about 1/4 of a mm from the rivets. Both the flywheel and pressure plate were glazed with some blueish hot spots, but there were no grooves in either surface. This likely contributed to my cold/wet morning shudder. The car has 175k km on it now and I purchased it with 87k km so I have no idea how the person before me drove it. It always shuddered occasionally when I purchased it.









I then installed the trans to the 2zr and transferred my block heater to the 2zr while it was out of the car. I then opened the 1nz harness and grabbed the speed sensor from the connector and attached it to the 2zr harness and properly wrapped in plastic loom. I also transferred all of the hose over to the 2zr at this time.

I then installed the passenger side mount to the body and put the dog bone in and loosely tightened it so it still swiveled. The 2zr is larger so it takes some time to put in the car (especially if you do this swap solo like I am). I found that getting the dogbone mount attached to the engine first and then the passenger side mount worked best. I used an engine leveler (highly recommend it especially if you don't have help). I also used a jack under the trans to help adjust the angle of the 2zr as well. I then installed the trans mount and unhooked the hoist.

I would highly recommend who ever does this swap to do was I did and what i was told by others and that is to remove the front brackets and bracing before you pull the 1nz. I was on the fence because of how much extra time it took but I listened to people who have more engine swap experience than me (and who had already completed this swap) and I'm glad I did.

With the front end off the car you can just turn the engine 90 degrees and easily slide it out. The crash beams are very close the engine and dont give you much room so pulling the front end saves you a lot of time down the road and makes it was easier.



Tomorrow I'll be connecting/trimming allf of the hoses and connectors and putting the radiator back on as wll as most of the front end. I'll likely have a chance to fire it up tomorrow.

I have to take it to an exhaust shop so they can fabricate a proper mount to fit the 2zr header as the current one I have on my custom exhaust is too small. Due to the holiday Monday next week I likely won't have to car fully functioning until Tuesday evening. I may still be able to temporarily connect the exhaust flange to the header so I can drive it around, but we'll see.

As a side, I took a silicone coupling I had and cut pieces from it to jam in the dog bone and trans mount. A member on this forum posted about the idea so I tried it out. The dogbone mount is super soft and the silicone definitely tightened it up, but I wasn't able to get much in the mount as I hoped as it was a tight fit.

[3cyltrbo]

MOAR

[ern-diz]

Originally Posted by 3cyltrbo

MOAR

+1

[tmontague]

Alright so after the full day Saturday I ended up being up all night hugging a toilet, the flu isn't fun but luckily usually short lived.

I ended up sleeping most of day Sunday and just picked little bits on the car. So basically I got a couple crash bars installed and all of the vacuum, fuel and heater core hoses connected.

Started out late this morning and I got the air box installed as well as the battery mount. Then I installed the lower rad support bar, the rad and then the upper support bar. I connected all of the a/c lines and hoses to the rad and then hooked up the battery.

I unplugged the efi 2 fuse and cranked the engine to build oil pressure. After 5-10 secs (oil pressure light still hadn't turned off) I checked the engine. I had a big fuel leak coming from the 2nd or 3rd injector. I removed the fuel rail and re seated the injectors.

I then disconnected the coils and injectors and cranked the engine some more. After about 30-50 seconds the oil pressure light went off. I then went to work on the immobilizer ecu bypass voodoo. After about 5 mins that was done and it was time to start it up.

The car would crank but not fire up. This happened for about 7 times (I would only let the car crank as long as it does when you just turn the key to start and then back to ignition). Double checked that everything was connected and no wires we unplugged. Tried it again and this time it stumbled and then died.

Tried a couple more times and then finally it turned over and ran fine. Cranky and Armstrong thought this was likely due to air being in the fuel lines since I had purged them before I pulled the 1nz.

Ever since then it has started and ran with zero issues and no codes thrown. I have only driven it around the block because the noise in unbearable above 2k rpm. The mid pipe is barely attached to the header so I essentially have no exhaust from the header.

I'll be taking it to an exhaust shop tomorrow since today was a holiday and hopefully they'll have time to fabricate a proper flange for the larger donut gasket.

To put this build in perspective, if I wasn't sick the whole thing would have been done in two 11 hour days working by myself. This is probably as easy as it gets to engine swaps. Especially with the support of the guys who've done it before me.

I'll post again tomorrow with an update and I'll be driving it as soon as I can and posting a review compared to the 1nz. I'll also be posting exactly what I had to buy and what I could use from the 1nz. For example my shift cables worked fine and got without any real issues. There seems to be some slight differences from the sedan to hatch swaps.

Big thanks to those on this forum who have done the swap before and offered up so much helpful info, made this swap much more painless

[ern-diz]

The jealousy is real!

[Corbeaubleu]

Can we have pics of the new motor installed?

[Corbeaubleu]

Also what exactly is included in a XD harness? Trashed Scions are way rare here.

[WeeYari]

Originally Posted by Corbeaubleu

Trashed Scions are way rare here.

Precisely the reason why the harness used in this Canadian project was sourced out of the States.



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[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

Precisely the reason why the harness used in this Canadian project was sourced out of the States.

...by Cranky, from a recycler on the other side of the country, who also collected parts from an xD at his local you-pick-yard. ;)

The MT swap is something not to be attempted by the easily discouraged. I will do everything in my power to help the next person, but it may take months or even years before the right parts are available. Armstrong Racing and I are putting together a swap kit--hopefully MT--because we want to see more of these happen.

That said, the AT swap is cake. Dime a dozen for those parts, much less hassle with sourcing them. If you're a competent shade tree mechanic and willing to put in the time up front, this is easily a weekend project. Bolt in ~130 hp. OEM reliability. Done.

[CrankyOldMan]

Congrats on joining the Dark Side! We don't have boost yet, but there are secret plans being drawn up as we speak...

[tmontague]

I'll have pics up tomorrow, my wife got the flu I had so takin care of her and the 3 month old meant no time for pictures.

And yes, as WeeYari mentioned, I sourced the xd m/t harness from an American xd which is why it didn't have an immobilizer.

I was also fortunate that Cranky found a scrapped xd at a local "you pull" and was kind enough to pull me the parts I needed. This have me access to rare parts and also at a fraction of the cost I otherwise would have had to pay for them.

I never planned on doing the swap this early but I made things work when I saw those parts come available