DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 16 - Toyota Yaris Forums

MGargano · 05-24-2009, 12:32 AM

Thanks... will try that on my next day off.

MGargano · 05-24-2009, 12:36 AM

Now that the head is totally shot, should I replace the original screw with something else?

jkuchta · 05-24-2009, 01:03 AM

Yes...take it to ACE and get a standard metric allen socket head cap screw (I think it's an M3 diameter with .5mm thread pitch...but I'm not 100% sure). I think you'll want something about 40-50mm long.

marcus · 05-24-2009, 11:24 AM

remind people thats gonna do this to play around with that screw before to put it on!!

eii · 05-26-2009, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

And eii, if you want to go for a ride in a yaris with the 1zz tb install that was done correctly, PM me.

Oh I was just kidding, hehe

. I based my install on the guide post you made earlier in this thread (thanks btw) so I'm sure I did it correct. I just get that < 1 minute 2.5k-ish cold idle start. Other than that it works great, I was just wondering what happened to demon. I just did the coolant bypass this morning, its more responsive and I definitely feel some more power. Cool stuff

jkuchta · 05-26-2009, 01:10 PM

Right on!

MGargano · 06-04-2009, 10:20 AM

I finally adjusted the idle screw and haven't got thrown a CEL yet and the start-up oscillation appears to be gone, but now the engine does a weird thing at idle. The RPMs drop very low (around 400) and the car starts to shudder like it's gonna stall out, then the engine revs itself up to about 1,500 RPM for a second. It keeps doing this over and over until I finally turn the car off for fear it's gonna stall. It's even worse when I'm idling with the A/C on. Also getting some jerkiness in the pedal when it enters DFCO.

jkuchta · 06-05-2009, 11:00 AM

turn the screw clockwise a half turn with the engine off. That should make it better. Also, if a half turn isnt enough, keep turning in half turn increments (with the engine off).

MGargano · 06-06-2009, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

turn the screw clockwise a half turn with the engine off. That should make it better. Also, if a half turn isnt enough, keep turning in half turn increments (with the engine off).

I gave up on the 1ZZ for the 2nd time. No matter how many turns I gave the idle screw, after a while the engine would settle back down to around 500 RPM, shake/shudder, rev up to 1,000 RPM, and then repeat the process until I either started moving or turned the car off in frustration. I hate all the problems I'm having since the performance of the the 1ZZ really is noticeably better than OEM, but I can't take the way it idles. I was also getting the heavy jerking whenever I took my foot off the gas.

PETERPOOP · 06-06-2009, 12:54 PM

you might have gotten a bad throttle body. maybe you should order the one through cali yaris.

MGargano · 06-06-2009, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

you might have gotten a bad throttle body. maybe you should order the one through cali yaris.

I don't think it's that, since the TB was working perfectly until I disconnected the battery. I wasn't getting any oscillation, jerking, weird idling, or CEL... then I pulled the battery cable and all these problems came out of the woodwork. I might try the swap again down the road sometime. Where can I get the Micro Image one? I don't see it listed on his website. Is it new or used/refurbished?

jkuchta · 06-07-2009, 01:17 PM

It's a 1zz TB, with the Yaris chip module already swapped on...also, we remove all of the epoxy on the idle set screw and make a preliminary adjustment to get you in the ballpark.

PETERPOOP · 07-05-2009, 01:37 PM

finally installed my 1zz tb after months of it sitting in my room. no CELS. warm idle at 2500rpms, then within seconds drops to 2k rpms, and then idles smoothly at a warm idle of 585 rpms. Didn't adjust the idle screw, and I didn't switch the chips; I think i've lucked out....

Drove the car after and ran it hard and conservatively, no problems! niceee

edit: Still running good. I don't really notice an increase in power? I remember looking at Yoda's dyno sheet that he did after he added the 1zz TB, and he got a gain of 3 whp. Unless I got less of a gain, I can't really feel 3 whp added to the existing. However, if the car keeps running with no problems for a couple of weeks, I plan on taking it to get dyno'd. Now that I have my 1zz injectors, I will be able to successfully do three pulls and hopefully hit 140whp now with the 1zz TB! :)

blacksandiegovitz · 07-17-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by echo_hrs

I got my TB yesterday & cleaned and polished it...I need to go get a coupler for the intake to TB, is it a 2.25" - 2.5" I need?

Anything else I need for the swap?

I'm thinking I'll just do the straight swap like PETERPOOP and see what I get before swapping chips...

Cheers

I just did this swap today and Its feels a lot stronger. I was able to make my aem coupler strech over the corolla tb .
you'll also need either 6 rivets and a rivet gun or 6 x small bolt and nuts for the "chip swap "

jkuchta · 07-19-2009, 05:25 PM

I used 6-32 allen head cap screws and jet nuts on mine. Makes for a realy clean job and the jet nuts are self-locking, so no worries about the screws coming loose.

whooppee777 · 07-20-2009, 08:56 PM

where the hell did the diy go?

PETERPOOP · 07-20-2009, 09:26 PM

t-sport is at it again; deleting everything he posts. i wouldn't think he'd delete this!

mikenacarato · 07-20-2009, 09:27 PM

why did he do that?

07-05-2009, 01:37 PM	#283
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	finally installed my 1zz tb after months of it sitting in my room. no CELS. warm idle at 2500rpms, then within seconds drops to 2k rpms, and then idles smoothly at a warm idle of 585 rpms. Didn't adjust the idle screw, and I didn't switch the chips; I think i've lucked out.... Drove the car after and ran it hard and conservatively, no problems! niceee edit: Still running good. I don't really notice an increase in power? I remember looking at Yoda's dyno sheet that he did after he added the 1zz TB, and he got a gain of 3 whp. Unless I got less of a gain, I can't really feel 3 whp added to the existing. However, if the car keeps running with no problems for a couple of weeks, I plan on taking it to get dyno'd. Now that I have my 1zz injectors, I will be able to successfully do three pulls and hopefully hit 140whp now with the 1zz TB! :) Last edited by PETERPOOP; 07-05-2009 at 08:48 PM.

07-20-2009, 08:56 PM	#286
whooppee777 I used to have 1700 posts View User's Garage Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Maryland Posts: 808	where the hell did the diy go? __________________ *First Boosted Yaris On The East Coast*

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05-24-2009, 12:32 AM	#271
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	Thanks... will try that on my next day off.

05-24-2009, 12:36 AM	#272
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	Now that the head is totally shot, should I replace the original screw with something else?

05-24-2009, 01:03 AM	#273
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Yes...take it to ACE and get a standard metric allen socket head cap screw (I think it's an M3 diameter with .5mm thread pitch...but I'm not 100% sure). I think you'll want something about 40-50mm long.

05-24-2009, 11:24 AM	#274
marcus toyota View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: toronto, canada Posts: 3,637	remind people thats gonna do this to play around with that screw before to put it on!!

05-26-2009, 01:10 PM	#276
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Right on!

06-04-2009, 10:20 AM	#277
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	I finally adjusted the idle screw and haven't got thrown a CEL yet and the start-up oscillation appears to be gone, but now the engine does a weird thing at idle. The RPMs drop very low (around 400) and the car starts to shudder like it's gonna stall out, then the engine revs itself up to about 1,500 RPM for a second. It keeps doing this over and over until I finally turn the car off for fear it's gonna stall. It's even worse when I'm idling with the A/C on. Also getting some jerkiness in the pedal when it enters DFCO.

06-05-2009, 11:00 AM	#278
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	turn the screw clockwise a half turn with the engine off. That should make it better. Also, if a half turn isnt enough, keep turning in half turn increments (with the engine off).

06-06-2009, 12:54 PM	#280
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	you might have gotten a bad throttle body. maybe you should order the one through cali yaris.

06-07-2009, 01:17 PM	#282
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	It's a 1zz TB, with the Yaris chip module already swapped on...also, we remove all of the epoxy on the idle set screw and make a preliminary adjustment to get you in the ballpark.

07-19-2009, 05:25 PM	#285
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	I used 6-32 allen head cap screws and jet nuts on mine. Makes for a realy clean job and the jet nuts are self-locking, so no worries about the screws coming loose.

07-20-2009, 09:26 PM	#287
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	t-sport is at it again; deleting everything he posts. i wouldn't think he'd delete this!

07-20-2009, 09:27 PM	#288
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	why did he do that?