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#163 |
![]() Drives: . Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: .
Posts: 10
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thats why I use a bigger hose clamp
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#164 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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#165 |
![]() Drives: . Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: .
Posts: 10
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#166 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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#167 |
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I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers
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#168 |
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SIPNDEW
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get 3 more bolts like the one lower left bolt and replace the 3 studs.
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#169 |
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Just finished the install and holy fucking oscillation
form 1000-3000 rpm from a cold start. I tried driving around a little bit and it started jumping up to 4k on idle and a CEL. How long does it typically take for the oscillation to start smoothing out? It's too late here (9:15) to mess around with it more. Don't want to piss off the neighbors. Any suggestions?
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#170 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away
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#171 |
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I am doing to leave the battery disconnected overnight incase 2 hours wasnt enough.
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#172 |
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#173 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.
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#174 | |
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Quote:
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#175 |
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WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation
Hopefully it stays that way. I didn't want to even take it around the block because I have had about half a beer and their are mad cops out for cinco de mayo. Hopefully I will have a nice drive to work tomorrow
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#176 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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Don't be surprised if the oscillation comes and goes for the first couple days. This happened to me and I thought everything was fine, then I got oscillation on the next cold start. Just be patient and give it a few days to work itself out.
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#177 |
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No clamp for months now on mine and no problems.
__________________
AEM CAI, NST Pulleys/SSK, WR 4-2-1 Header, TRD axelback, R1 Concept Rotors, TRD Sway Bar, Nitto Rear Strut Bar, Cusco GT-Zero Coilovers, 1ZZ-FE 1.8L TB |
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#178 |
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#179 |
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Rides canyon walls
Drives: 1988 RX7 FC 10th AE Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 503
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Just out of curiousity, are you guys doing the coolant bypass? I was considering doing so unless this changes the way it idles. The 3k cold starts for 1 minute is all I want as far as weird reving goes. Dont want the bypass to screw with my fine idling.
__________________
![]() OEM Style Wing Spoiler | TRD Axle-Back Exhaust | Megan Lowering Springs (1.5 f/r) | Simota Carbon Charger Intake | Python 871XP Alarm System | Aluminum Sports Pedal | 17x7 +42mm Enkei J10 Black w/ Silver Lip | 205/40 Falken Ziex-912 | NST Lite Crank Pulley Red | 1ZZ-FE Throttle Body | AMK Racing Header |
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#180 | |
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Quote:
. I actually don't experience the high cold idle everyone else is. My cold idle is around 2k RPM just like stock. I did hower buy my TB from M911gt on here so he may have fine tuned the idle screw. I think if anything doing the coolant bypass will make it idle better
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