Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

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What a nice surprise on the screen shows a volt meter, when the car is cruising shows 13.8v and when the car is turned off 12.6v.

This morning when I started my car the volt meter was reading 14.2v

after 15 miles of commute 13.9v and when I got at work 41 miles after and about 45 minutes on the road 13.6v

is this normal? should I be concern? I had my lights on and the AC cranking.

D.

[derickveliz2]

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BTW... it was a very quiet ride.

I didn't realize how much noise can scoop through the head unit's opening in the middle of the dashboard.

D.

[sqcomp]

I noticed the same thing. At this point I'm ready to say it's normal. I start up mine and my Voltimeter reads anywhere from 14.3 to 14 Volts. At the end of extended listening and cruising I'm at mid 13 Volts like you are.

Isn't it funny though? You sit there an glance at that reading SO MANY TIMES! It's almost like you're thinking, "Okay, is my car going to suddenly suck all the juice from my alternator and I'll end up stuck?"

I find though that I stay around 13.7 Volts if I'm not in stop and go traffic. I'm of the opinion that the only thing that will keep the reading at 14 Volts is an aftermarket alternator. Oh, and the reading when your car is off is very normal.

[derickveliz2]

Thanks sqcomp!

I still need to get that 100 amp fuse in the Big 3

I have a question... can I run speaker wire near by (+) 4 gauge cable? I'm trying to figure out the location of the amps and how the cables run, I know I have to keep away the RCA from (+) in worst case cross them at 90 degrees, right?

Thanks
D.

[sqcomp]

Near? How close is near? If you need to cross the signal and power, I'd do it at a right angle, yes.

I've managed to only have one cable so far that crosses the power...that's on the amp rack and it's unavoidable with the setup I have so far. I will be taking extra steps to shield the two cables from each other regardless.


Get that big 3 done! It's a great value investment. I actually have to downgrade the 250 Ampere fuse that came from Stinger down to a 150 or 175 Ampere fuse. I think I'll go with the lesser fuse simply because it'd take a 300 Ampere draw to blow it anyway. It keeps everything very safe that way.

[talnlnky]

voltage only tells you half of the story. Knowing voltage alone doesn't really tell you if there is a problem or not.... unless it drops below 12v, or peaks above 15v.

When you start your car your alt will start to recharge the battery, the quickest way to do that is to increase the voltage along with the amperage output.

Once your battery is fully charged tho, you should see your voltage drop to as low as 13.2volts because the alt no longer needs to charge.

It is normal.... HOWEVER, if your alternator can't charge the battery as fast as you can drain it (because you got some crazy amp hungry electronics or a bad shorting problem) then your bat will slowly lose its charge. At this same time, the alt might be trying to hold a voltage near 14.5v, but due to the extreme amperage demand, it just can't hold the voltage up... thus you see a sag/dip, and may read something in the 13's. THIS IS BAD, and if you have this issue you will most likely kill both your alt and bat in the near future... and then you might as well get a custom alt or re-think the electronics because you will constantly have alt/bat problems.

[derickveliz2]

Thanks Talnlnky

I don't have amps running, we'll see how it changes as I plug them in.



sqcomp... my P99 turns white screen on and off about every 30 or 40 seconds, did I plug something wrong?
or there is a setting for that? I'm going to dig in the manual.

Should I reset the unit? maybe?


This little head unit looks so simple but when you navigate trough the menus it's scary

[derickveliz2]

Yesterday I went to the local Car-Audio store and asked them for a 100amp fuse/fuse holder for the big 3 that goes from the alternator to the (+) of the Battery... And they told me that it was not necessary an refused to sell me one )o: they made me feel stupid some how, I guess I just have to order one online and not support them on this one.

[derickveliz2]

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Last night I powered one of the amps, and put a CD in the HU, connected one 6.5 midbass driver, so now the HU, 1 amp and one speaker are working.

[sqcomp]

Derick, sorry brother...I've been working long nights. Okay, the P99 (the US version) is switching from the white contrast to the black contrast sceens. My P-01 did the same thing. This happens after you've reset the piece.

What you need to do is to turn the tuner off. Then press the function button. You'll go through a setup menu. Your option to change the contrast will be offered on one of those menus. You also have an option to turn off the remote, to change the lighting color, etcetera.

I don't see the need for a fuse between the alternator and the battery. I do see a need for a fuse from the positive back to the amplifiers though.

As for the Voltage, we're seeing normal operation. There's no dips or peaks in my operation.

Remember...gain match!

[talnlnky]

yeah, it is common practice not to put a fuse on the charging wire on the alt. You can put one on tho. i'd make it a big fuse tho. if using 1/0, i'd go bigger than 100amp.... 150-200 probably. If running 4awg i'd go for 100-150.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Derick, sorry brother...I've been working long nights. Okay, the P99 (the US version) is switching from the white contrast to the black contrast sceens. My P-01 did the same thing. This happens after you've reset the piece.
What you need to do is to turn the tuner off. Then press the function button. You'll go through a setup menu. Your option to change the contrast will be offered on one of those menus. You also have an option to turn off the remote, to change the lighting color, etcetera.
I don't see the need for a fuse between the alternator and the battery. I do see a need for a fuse from the positive back to the amplifiers though.
As for the Voltage, we're seeing normal operation. There's no dips or peaks in my operation.
Remember...gain match!

No problem SQcomp I'll try to change the the settings and set the contrast, I'll let you know.


I was looking for a fuse because of this post above...

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

That connection to the alternator should have a 100A fusible link in it. Otherwise if something shorts out in the alternator, you could have a fire on you hands.

so I don't really need it, OK I'm fine. I do have a fuse for the amps and I have a distribution block with smaller fuses one for each amp.


Ok, this one I'm clue less... how do I do gain match?

Thanks
Derick

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

What you need to do is to turn the tuner off. Then press the function button. You'll go through a setup menu. Your option to change the contrast will be offered on one of those menus. You also have an option to turn off the remote, to change the lighting color, etcetera.

Done! Thanks sqcomp, this HU is very special I bet your's it's a little harder with no English, I tried Spanish a little bit but the translation was terrible, so went back to English

You are not going to believe me, I couldn't find BASS & TREBLE in my HU

Just kidding... I don't think there is such a thing on the P99

Thanks again, going back to study the manual for more information

[derickveliz2]

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I connected both 6.5 speakers (in the doors), now I can hear some music! low frequencies by it self are not the greatest Though

[derickveliz2]

I can't believe the amount of customization / tweaking the P99 HU has, using only the Mid Bass drivers (Low Frequency channel) I was able to make it sound much better than OEM HU.

Now my question is... I need to learn more about Frequencies and speakers, in other words Woofers go from 20 to 80??, midbass go from ?? to ??, midrange go from ?? to ?? and Tweeters from ?? to 20,000??

Thanks
D.

[sqcomp]

Okay...ummm...yeah. There is no "Bass" or "Trebble" toggles. It's all in the EQ and Crossover section. You'll have more than you ever need.

with the function button (the right one) to get to your EQ and crossover sections what you'll need to do is:

While the unit is on, go ahead and rotate the function button either left or right.

This will job the display into "Audio", "Display", or ""Function". Note I haven't even turned mine on in two weeks because I'm waiting for the last 2.9 to get here...

Obviously, choose "Audio"

In the main audio menu, you can turn the function button left or right throughout the whole process EXCEPT in some sub menus.

At this point we're just floating around in the upper menu.

What you'll do is to jog the function button until you reach the crossover slopes display.

At that point you'll press the function button in.

That should give you the ability to float around the 4 way crossover.

Now, you SHOULD play with this. You'll be able to range the slopes in regards to frequency range and you'll be able to independantly adjust both left and right on said slopes.

Now this adjustment takes another press of the function button BUT I would say to leave it alone and just do broad changes until you're used to the deck.

You also have the ability to mute any section of the crossover. This is particularly useful when you're tuning...

I KNOW there's more. I'm just wasted from a 13 hour work day yesterday/this morning and would need some specific questions to hone in on.

I hope this helps at least guide you in the right direction.

...and yes, I know the head unit is frustrating. This is just the initial reaction to so many options. Feel lucky you don't have the Carrozzeria RS-D7xII! You think our sources have options? PFFFFTT! That is one of THE most ultimate decks ever built. Think better crossover and optical out...

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

It's all in the EQ and Crossover section. You'll have more than you ever need.

Thanks!

this is AWESOME!

I guess as I keep plugging amps and speakers everything will come up together nicely.


DERICK.

[sqcomp]

Try to use all of the source's pre outs. This will give you the best control from the unit.