Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[camry09]

For some reason my Posts are being removed

but here is a URL

http://imageshack.com/a/img674/9913/29Izxy.jpg

[camry09]

Can't seem to post an image with an url here, posts are being deleted

Sent you a PM

Thank you

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by camry09

Can't seem to post an image with an url here, posts are being deleted

Sent you a PM

Thank you

OK. I got the link to the document.

Your original questions were:

Trying to install Valet 561T in 2011 Prius Sedan AT with Factory Alarm

I think i figured out the most of the things except for few

On the 4 Pin Satellate Harness there are few wires that aren't clear for me where to connect

1. Accessory Trigger ( does it go to Conn 8 Pin 2 White wire)
2. Wire 3 Starter Trigger ( does that go to Conn D8 Pin 7 )

And another thing

Heavy Gauge Relay Sattelite

1. Wire 2 Purple do i tap in to D8 Pin 7 Black starter wires ?
2. Wire 3 Orange do i tap in to D8 Pin 2 White Accesory wire?


Accessory and starter trigger on 4 pin satellite are not needed.


On the heavy gauge one:

1. To Ignition 1 on the ignition switch connector.
2. To both black wires on the ignition switch connector.
3. To Accessory wire on the ignition switch connector.
4. To power feed on fuse panel
5. To Ignition 2 on the ignition switch connector. (You will also have to go through the configuration of the remote starter to select ignition, rather than starter function.
6. To power feed on fuse panel

[camry09]

Got it, thank you very much that actually clears up a lot of things

Going to bug you a bit more, on the Primary Harness
H1/1 Factory Disarm - is it necessary on Yaris?

Reason why i ask is i am planning on using H1/4 (-) Activation Input since Door Lock and Unlock are Both (-) on the Yaris

Am i on the right track for this?

thx again

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by camry09

Got it, thank you very much that actually clears up a lot of things

Going to bug you a bit more, on the Primary Harness
H1/1 Factory Disarm - is it necessary on Yaris?

Reason why i ask is i am planning on using H1/4 (-) Activation Input since Door Lock and Unlock are Both (-) on the Yaris

Am i on the right track for this?

thx again

The Yaris doesn't have a direct disarm wire to connect to.

The activation input sounds fine.

[camry09]

Appreciate all the help

So in theory even if the car is Locked by sending Activation Pulse should technically start the car, one way to find out ill be doing that in the AM first thing

[camry09]

So no juice for me today unfortunately

The Valet 561T that i connected seems to be getting power because Tach Learning Procedure worked well

However the remote start doesn't work at all not even getting the ignition lights - the error that i get is Flashing LEd 7 times which according to Troubleshoot means the following

Seven (-) Neutral safety shutdown (H2/6 BLACK/WHITE)

I do have this wire connected to Key Sense - am i on the right track here ?

Thank you

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by camry09

So no juice for me today unfortunately

The Valet 561T that i connected seems to be getting power because Tach Learning Procedure worked well

However the remote start doesn't work at all not even getting the ignition lights - the error that i get is Flashing LEd 7 times which according to Troubleshoot means the following

Seven (-) Neutral safety shutdown (H2/6 BLACK/WHITE)

I don have this wire connected to Key Sense - am i on the right track here ?

Thank you

Sounds like you didn't switch the default mode from standard transmission to auto.

[camry09]

Alright maybe im missing something, but so far this is the only thing that ive found

IMPORTANT! This product is designed for fuel-injected, automatic transmission vehicles only.Installing it in a standard transmission vehicle is dangerous and is contrary to its intended use.

Thank also this part

Connect this wire to the toggle (override) switch as shown in Figure A. Connect the other wire from the toggle switch
to the PARK/NEUTRAL switch in the vehicle. This wire will test with ground with the gear selector either in PARK or
NEUTRAL. This will prevent the vehicle from accidentally being started while in a drive gear. This input MUST rest at ground
in order for the remote start system to operate. Connected properly the vehicle will only start while in PARK or NEUTRAL.
In some vehicles, the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch activates a factory starter lock-out that will not allow the
starter to operate in a drive gear. In these vehicles, connect this wire to the toggle switch as shown in Figure B.
Connect the other wire from the toggle switch to chassis ground.

Do i just ground this wire and call it a day?

From guys that did this install on AT can you please point me on the right track

thank you

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by camry09

Alright maybe im missing something, but so far this is the only thing that ive found

IMPORTANT! This product is designed for fuel-injected, automatic transmission vehicles only.Installing it in a standard transmission vehicle is dangerous and is contrary to its intended use.

Thank also this part

Connect this wire to the toggle (override) switch as shown in Figure A. Connect the other wire from the toggle switch
to the PARK/NEUTRAL switch in the vehicle. This wire will test with ground with the gear selector either in PARK or
NEUTRAL. This will prevent the vehicle from accidentally being started while in a drive gear. This input MUST rest at ground
in order for the remote start system to operate. Connected properly the vehicle will only start while in PARK or NEUTRAL.
In some vehicles, the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch activates a factory starter lock-out that will not allow the
starter to operate in a drive gear. In these vehicles, connect this wire to the toggle switch as shown in Figure B.
Connect the other wire from the toggle switch to chassis ground.

Do i just ground this wire and call it a day?

From guys that did this install on AT can you please point me on the right track

thank you

Looking at the configuration guide where you can get into the menus and change different settings, it looks like this one does not have a setting for it. I just installed a Viper remote starter (also made by DEI, like Valet) in my sister's Tacoma and had the same issue, but changing the default MT setting to AT solved it.

For yours, just ground that wire.

[camry09]

Success!!!!! its alive and working, 3x time hit Close and it starts up

The only thing it doesn't want to open from Remove while vehicle is running, will have to use the key to open the doors for now till can figure that out

A special thank you to STScott for helping with advice

[JBinc]

I've go an interesting issue. 2007 Yaris sedan, no factory alarm, no engine immobilizer, power locks. I followed the DIY PDF to install U1272 Ultra Start. Had remote lock/unlock functionality with park lamp flash using either of the two fobs, but remote start did not work when I pressed the star button and the horn did not sound with any command. The strange things is that it would remote start intermittently when I pressed the star button, then lock button.

I entered programming mode and was working through the lock button menus when the car suddenly started but never disengaged the starter . I tried pressing the brake then turning the key to OFF (normal to stop remote start functionality), but that didn't work. After some panic, I pulled power to the remote start module. Now every time I apply power to the module, the vehicle instantly cranks, but won't start. I have the hood up (hood switch open) and key is out of ignition--doesn't matter. Continuity is good on the black starter wire to yellow wire from remote starter module. None of the wires of the 6 pin remote starter connector are shorted to ground (continuity checked). Is there somewhere I can check to see if the module could be giving ground when it shouldn't. Please help!

[JBinc]

One other note--now when I plug in the connector on the remote starter side for door lock/unlock my lock button on the door switch panel does not work, but unlock does. If I disconnect the connector again, the lock and unlock work when using the door switch panel (normal functionality).

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by JBinc

I've go an interesting issue. 2007 Yaris sedan, no factory alarm, no engine immobilizer, power locks. I followed the DIY PDF to install 1172 Ultra Start. Had remote lock/unlock functionality with park lamp flash using either of the two fobs, but remote start did not work when I pressed the star button and the horn did not sound with any command. The strange things is that it would remote start intermittently when I pressed the star button, then lock button.

I entered programming mode and was working through the lock button menus when the car suddenly started but never disengaged the starter . I tried pressing the brake then turning the key to OFF (normal to stop remote start functionality), but that didn't work. After some panic, I pulled power to the remote start module. Now every time I apply power to the module, the vehicle instantly cranks, but won't start. I have the hood up (hood switch open) and key is out of ignition--doesn't matter. Continuity is good on the black starter wire to yellow wire from remote starter module. None of the wires of the 6 pin remote starter connector are shorted to ground (continuity checked). Is there somewhere I can check to see if the module could be giving ground when it shouldn't. Please help!

It sounds like the relay for the starter is stuck closed. Try giving the remote start unit a good hard slap with your hand to see if it will unstick. Even if it does, I would not trust it and would get it replaced. I recently went through two bad units before getting a good one, with a Viper remote starter that I installed for a friend.

[JBinc]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It sounds like the relay for the starter is stuck closed. Try giving the remote start unit a good hard slap with your hand to see if it will unstick. Even if it does, I would not trust it and would get it replaced. I recently went through two bad units before getting a good one, with a Viper remote starter that I installed for a friend.

I gave it a few solid slaps this morning. No luck. I'll contact Ultra Starters and see if they will warranty it. Have you had luck with the manufacturer replacing the unit under warranty in this scenario?

[CTScott]

I haven't had one of theirs fail. They theoretically only sell to authorized installers, so you will likely have to deal with who you bought it from.

[JBinc]

I spoke to the seller--fairly simple. They're sending a replacement module. Thanks for your help thus far.

[pennyracer]

hi CTScott you have giving me some info in the past of a few different topics my only trouble i have had for years on my 08 yaris lb with power package is when my car is stored in a building for months at a time even with a trickle charger hooked up my battery will drain completely i have a python 571xp remotoe start with keyless entry i have pulled all my fuses for the stereo and amps trying to isolate this constant draw did not help then sometimes the cars will be stored same way battery stays up i keep telling my stereo guy its not the car itself but im sure wondering these days i have used yellow top optima and oddessy battery for longer life still not holding out when stored i do run a 180 amp dc alternator had the problem before and after alt install what do you think would cause this draw to be there most of the time and others not ? any advise from you would be awsome you are the yarisworld info king here oh no others add ons installed on my yaris just a little radio work and remote start and keyless entry only