Warning - Broken control arm bolt!

[yarisugi]

Technical Service Bulletin.

[kaz777]

duplicate reply sorry

[kaz777]

Originally Posted by yarisugi

Technical Service Bulletin.

thanks. I dont diy tho' so its up to toyota to cover what they will but its helpful to read those.

[kaz777]

I accid had a duplicate reply, delayed posts. Sorry. BTW they fixed my car bolts both, even tho one was sheared off, they also fixed the seat adjust thing on drivers side that is a recall or enhancement w/o me even telling them too. I got a loaner car on them (brand new corolla) I was very impressed w/ their service had worse experiences at past dealers of other makes.
The seat works harder now but if its safer ok.

[CueBall]

I stumbled across this thread and now I'm thinking I better do this! I got the letter about a year ago and forgot all about it.
I think I'll try to get them out myself. I'm wondering why no one has thought to try and find better bolts.. something that has more resistance to corrosion.. like stainless steel maybe? What do you all think? Does stainless torque well? Will it hold the 118 ft/lbs?
Any input is appreciated.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by CueBall

I stumbled across this thread and now I'm thinking I better do this! I got the letter about a year ago and forgot all about it.
I think I'll try to get them out myself. I'm wondering why no one has thought to try and find better bolts.. something that has more resistance to corrosion.. like stainless steel maybe? What do you all think? Does stainless torque well? Will it hold the 118 ft/lbs?
Any input is appreciated.

Stainless is too brittle for this application.

[eseibel67]

Well the 07 sedan has been through many southern Ontario winters and I'm afraid to try and take the bolts out. My plan is to drill a drainage hole, and using the straw, spray oil on the threads of the bolt. It would have to be done periodically, but it might save the bolt from furthur corrosion. I see this as a better option than trying to remove it and breaking it for certain.

[dkwilfert]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Stainless is too brittle for this application.

Just curious, what was the source of the information that stainless is too brittle for this application? That seems to imply quite a bit of motion/flex at this joint.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by dkwilfert

Just curious, what was the source of the information that stainless is too brittle for this application? That seems to imply quite a bit of motion/flex at this joint.

The bolt is mounted in a metal tube that is then suspended in dense rubber so that the control arm can move, so there is definitely flex at that joint. The right blend of stainless would be fine, but off the shelf bolts would be more brittle of a stainless blend then would be appropriate.

[bronsin]

Originally Posted by eseibel67

Well the 07 sedan has been through many southern Ontario winters and I'm afraid to try and take the bolts out. My plan is to drill a drainage hole, and using the straw, spray oil on the threads of the bolt. It would have to be done periodically, but it might save the bolt from furthur corrosion. I see this as a better option than trying to remove it and breaking it for certain.

Id be afraid if its that far gone it will break all by itself.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by bronsin

Id be afraid if its that far gone it will break all by itself.

The accident mentioned earlier in this thread (in 2013) was enough to scare me into action.

[CueBall]

Originally Posted by eseibel67

Well the 07 sedan has been through many southern Ontario winters and I'm afraid to try and take the bolts out. ....... a better option than trying to remove it and breaking it for certain.

I feel the same way. But if that happens I'll carefully drive to the dealership and have them do the warrenty.

I guess stainless is out then? That's too bad.

[eseibel67]

As with most automotive problems, I usually mull it over for a few days before I tear into action.

There's no doubt that the (relatively) permanent solution is to get new bolts. Skip the seam sealer prescribed in the Toyota TSB because you will never get it 100% water tight anyway, and it will just delay evaporation of water that does get in there. Drill 1/4" holes so the water can drain out of that low spot. Paint the freshly cut metal to prevent corrosion. Slather the control arm hole/new bolt head washer with blue marine grade grease such as Bombardier Triple Guade grease. That stuff is so tacky, it's hard to wipe off with an alcohol soaked rag. It will surely fend off a few drops of water for the next 10 years.

I am just outside of the 7 year warrnty cutoff. Hopefully some devine miracle will allow the old bolts to be removed in one piece. I really want to avoid dropping the subframe.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by nookandcrannycar

The accident mentioned earlier in this thread (in 2013) was enough to scare me into action.

Bolts replaced in 2013 .

[Echo86]

Replaced the LCAs yesterday, successfully, without shearing any bolts or damaging threads. The alignment to get the arm is was the tricky part. Used a lube by a company called Schaeffer. Not available in stores and many times better than WD40. Before you laugh and say its from an infomercial, the guy who helped me with the arms had it in his shop. No heat needed at all to remove 12 yr old bolts without damage. Unreal stuff.

[kanaga]

It looks like i have some work to do...

Passenger side
20150620_170443.jpg

Driver side
20150620_170618.jpg

Any suggestions on the best way to remove the headless bolt?

[ex-x-fire]

I think you can lower the cradle a little & try to turn it out with a pipe wrench.

[kanaga]

I was thinking that was the most probable solution. Would it need to be on a lift, or could I use ramps?