Struts vs coilovers

[ilikerice]

Well, may be time for a petition! Thanks Jason

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

Well, may be time for a petition! Thanks Jason

Its does not require a petition, nor was there a conspiracy to keep the Yaris out while letting the others in, you simply need to submit a single letter to the Solo Events Board asking for it. http://crbscca.com/

[ilikerice]

Thanks! Thread hijack is finished, back to the OP

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

The letters on the classification do not flow from one category to another, once you change categories it is essentially a clean slate.

ESP is the V8 rwd Pony cars, FSP is mostly small bore FWD.

Bah, FS vs ESP always screws me up.

[Ben_]

So here's the mods for hs, I'm hoping to be able to buy them all

I've bought my rims, they are coming in the mail.

I bought some hawk hps pads, but haven't installed them yet. I was planning on reusing the OEM rotors (the pads I removed had minimal wear they got replaced because of cracking from heat damage) but I'm beginning to reconsider reusing the OEM ones and using r1 concepts OEM style

Bought my rear sway bar. It is glorious and changed the feel of the car ENTIRELY

Bought my camber bolts (considering -1.2 camber 0 toe to balance uneven track wear and uneven daily driving wear). Last week at miller motorsports park on the full size track I adjusted for maximum camber without an alignment rack and got somewhat better tread wear. I think this is about -1.8 but I'm just guessing. I think this will be good enough for getting better treadwear for scca events

Look forward to saving money for tokiko reds.

Looking at fabbing an axle back straight pipe, but am also considering the axle backs on garms eBay that are on sale. Choices are straight pipe, DC sports, or tanabe concept g. So to make my decision I want to consider *individually* the performance gains and decibel level

[ilikerice]

To be honest in my opinion. There really isn't any performance gains with an axle back only. You really need to open up the rest of the exhaust to see any gains. Go with something light weight. The oem exhaust is pretty heavy with that huge bubble and extra piping that circles around.

[Ben_]

Got the car aligned today. -1.6 camber and 0 toe.

Wow after looking at the car, it is a HUGE amount of camber. The wheels are sideways!!! plus it looks extra funny with steelies and 195 Micheline defenders. I almost double take because it looks so strange seeing those rims sideways after all these years lol

I found out today with the MI camber bolts the car has a maximum of -2.6 with the toe at 0. The struts are stock and not followed out Caster is in spec.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by Ben_

Got the car aligned today. -1.6 camber and 0 toe.

Wow after looking at the car, it is a HUGE amount of camber. The wheels are sideways!!! plus it looks extra funny with steelies and 195 Micheline defenders. I almost double take because it looks so strange seeing those rims sideways after all these years lol

I found out today with the MI camber bolts the car has a maximum of -2.6 with the toe at 0. The struts are stock and not followed out Caster is in spec.

Its not enough... That wont make a noticeable difference in tire wear or front end grip versus what you previously had. Should have taken the -2.6, and you need a little bit of toe out to help promote low speed turn in.

[CrankyOldMan]

I found that the -1.5 from OEM was a decent enough compromise between stability at highway speeds and cornering on the course. If we had access to top plates, I would be all over a more aggressive camber in autoX.

[Ben_]

^what he said

I've asked about this before and was told that I could not have my cake and eat it too. I am a pizza delivery driver and will be using this car for that on the weekdays and auto x on the weekend. I do notice better handling at daily driving speeds and am currently happy with the set up. I will have to try it on the track and also see how daily tires wear so there is still much to be learned, but I'm happy at the moment.

Will be receiving my new rims soon and buying tires for them when the ones they are coming with are wore out. Will be doing 205/50/15 on a 5.5 wide rim

Still considering whether yo buy new rotors to match my hps pads or to reuse and turn the stock ones if they have enough material

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by Ben_

^what he said

I've asked about this before and was told that I could not have my cake and eat it too. I am a pizza delivery driver and will be using this car for that on the weekdays and auto x on the weekend. I do notice better handling at daily driving speeds and am currently happy with the set up. I will have to try it on the track and also see how daily tires wear so there is still much to be learned, but I'm happy at the moment.

Will be receiving my new rims soon and buying tires for them when the ones they are coming with are wore out. Will be doing 205/50/15 on a 5.5 wide rim

Still considering whether yo buy new rotors to match my hps pads or to reuse and turn the stock ones if they have enough material

Camber is not what kills tires, its toe. Daily drove my Corvette and RX-8 with -2.5 in the rear (less in the front because the car could not get it) for years. Got 30k miles out of Pilot Sports on the RX-8 with a full race spec alignment.

Dial in the max camber, set the toe at zero. When you get to the event turn the tie rod to adjust toe on the spot, return it for the drive home. Or do nothing and keep killing tires and giving up time that is there for the taking.

[Ben_]

You guys are awesome for coming on here and schooling me and other noobs on how to run these fun little cars. I have a good deal with the guys at school (I'm going to mechanics school right now) so I can keep messing with my alignment with and without the rack and not go broke.

I'll take that into consideration in the future, with my almost 0 experience I'm going to be trying different things and learning a lot. I'm going to try my current set up for a couple of events and go from there. Its good to know that I can run -2.6 with my current set up and will probably end up trying that in the future with some toe.

I just talked with the tire guy at Costco about keeping my warranty on my daily driving tires/rims when switching out for other sets and he says that I can run a different set and have the guys there swap them for a "winter" set and as long as they see the tires and have paperwork I can run a different set without racking up miles on my warranty. So I can take advantage of the rules to keep my defender tires investment.

Thanks again your guys advice is priceless and it will go a long way to keeping my times low and my wallet at least partially full

[Ben_]

Funny enough, I was just reading the march 2015 scca magazine and it has an article entitled secrets to speed where it says toe is the most important alignment spec for speed. Looks like I might need some toe plates

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by Ben_

Funny enough, I was just reading the march 2015 scca magazine and it has an article entitled secrets to speed where it says toe is the most important alignment spec for speed. Looks like I might need some toe plates

What idiot wrote that? lol

Its just part of the equation, and the one that will hurt you the most if its wrong, but you still need the camber.

[Blown_xa]

yea you guys need a lot more negative camber, Im running -3.5 with much stiffer suspension and the temps are perfect across the tire along with even wear. I use -3.5 with R1R's and Hoosiers. Anything below -3 up front is a waste of an alignment IMO ( If you are trying to be competitive)

[Blown_xa]

If you want a primitive means to get your camber in the ballpark, just look at a photo of your car loaded up in turn. You want to use the whole tire... It should be close to strait (under full load in turn) . This is what -3.5 looks like on my car.

[Ben_]

Gangster photo dude. My issue is this is my only car and its dual purpose. For each auto x event I'll put a few hundred miles on the car delivering pizzas to pay for more tires at auto x. I'm trying to be as competitive as possible within my limits and the tough part so far has been finding those limits and taking full advantage. I'll have a good test and tune day on the 1st to see what my current mods are doing and go from there. I'll be buying some rotors to match my hps pads when I get the k&n filter from MI for my oil change. Will probably do transmission oil mt90 too since I'm getting due at 60k hard miles. Will be running my r1rs till they die then getting 205/50/15 r compounds for the new mini phone dials that are coming in the mail next week

I'd love to run a track alignment but I'm trying to be more realistic in how the car is being used

[Ben_]

I don't remember who said this but another member told me -4.5 camber is what he ran to get the best performance. That is super extreme for a street car. One of these days I'll buy a second car and run the yaris track only, but that day hasn't come yet