DIY: 2006-2011 Yaris OEM Cruise Control Complete Installation - Page 6 - Toyota Yaris Forums

jra · 07-01-2016, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jra

Would a 2015 five door L automatic U.S. Yaris only need the stalk and wiring to plug in to clock spring and horn? If so do you have parts for this?

Scott
Thanks for the parts you sent, took about 15 min. to install, works like it was factory installed.

Tomsyaris · 07-24-2016, 07:09 PM

Hi Scott I Sent a pm . Thanks

David C · 07-25-2016, 07:07 PM

Hi Scott, if I was to use a switch and LED to do a basic setup, could you pinpoint the essential wires ? Would a lighted 4 way switch work as a CC stalk and on/off indicator or do the CC indicator module would still be needed to act as a smart relay ? I have a '07 3dr LB, Canada. PM me the details if possible.

Thanks

bassmannate · 07-28-2016, 09:40 PM

Just used your guide to install a stalk and wiring. Worked great! The only thing I ran into was that I read the part about the indicator as "Yes: You'll need the indicator kit" or "No: You won't need the indicator kit" so I was a little disappointed when no light came on in the cluster but so happy to have cruise control on this car! Might have to get the indicator kit sometime just to have it in there.

bassmannate · 08-05-2016, 04:39 PM

Well, we're on our first road trip with the cruise control and it hasn't been completely smooth. The on/off button doesn't seem to work reliably the first time after starting the car. After you get it to come on the first time, it works great.

Is this just a problem with the switch/stalk i got? Is the control just a resistor ladder and could i just install a momentary switch with a resistor across the leads?

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

CTScott · 08-05-2016, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, we're on our first road trip with the cruise control and it hasn't been completely smooth. The on/off button doesn't seem to work reliably the first time after starting the car. After you get it to come on the first time, it works great.

Is this just a problem with the switch/stalk i got? Is the control just a resistor ladder and could i just install a momentary switch with a resistor across the leads?

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

Where did you get the stalk?

bassmannate · 08-06-2016, 07:01 AM

Amazon. I should have contacted you first but was trying to be sure to get it in before this trip and it was prime shipping. I've already contacted the seller to see if i can get a replacement for just the stalk since i don't want to pull all the wire out.

The good news is that if the schematics I've seen are correct, the on/off button is just a short to ground with no resistor. Worst case scenario, i mount a momentary switch to the dash and connect it across the leads coming from the back if the steering wheel.

By the way, are you still selling the indicator modules?

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

CTScott · 08-06-2016, 07:38 AM

The on/off is just a switch to ground. I would check all of your connection points to make sure it isn't an intermittent connection. If the stalk is one of the Chinese clones, it could be a bad switch within it as well.

I do still sell the indicator modules.

bassmannate · 08-06-2016, 08:08 AM

Yeah, it might just be a bad switch internally. The rest of the functions work fine.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

bassmannate · 08-09-2016, 01:39 PM

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

David C · 08-09-2016, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

Try to read the resistance between the main chassis ground next to the battery and the battery terminal itself, then compare it to the reading you're getting between the ground connection you're using for the stalk and the battery terminal. Subtract the main ground to terminal value to it and that's how much resistance that you should try to reduce. I would assume the ECU has a direct wiring to the battery terminal clamp, but the manufacturer would take for account the resistance in chassis ground when setting the value range for the CC inputs, since the stalk would be connected to chassis (same connection as the horn by connector D3, right ?).

I did the readings on my own setup (I used 2x 2-way rocker switch and connecting my ground to the bolt behind the kick panel under the steering wheel) and had a lot of resistance using that ground point compared to the main chassis ground, but still I have flawless operation so far (installed it and been using it daily for 5 days now).

However I would really doubt that the switch internal resistance of less than 2 ohms would throw every off. It sounds more like a bad contact inside the ON/OFF switch, otherwise you wouldn't be able to use all the other function flawlessly.

CTScott · 08-09-2016, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

That is fine. There is about 30 ohms of tolerance for each of the switch modes.

Was the ECM pin a genuine one that seated properly in the ECM connector?

bassmannate · 08-09-2016, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

That is fine. There is about 30 ohms of tolerance for each of the switch modes.

Was the ECM pin a genuine one that seated properly in the ECM connector?

Pretty sure it seated properly. It felt like it clicked in there. I'll try to pull it out again tomorrow morning and make sure it seats correctly. I would think if that were the issue the rest of the functions wouldn't work right.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

CTScott · 08-09-2016, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Pretty sure it seated properly. It felt like it clicked in there. I'll try to pull it out again tomorrow morning and make sure it seats correctly. I would think if that were the issue the rest of the functions wouldn't work right.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

The other one will only work after on/off works, so unless you can watch the cruise control input on a Toyota Techstream tool, you really can't tell if the other functions are working when on/off is now.

bassmannate · 08-09-2016, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

The other one will only work after on/off works, so unless you can watch the cruise control input on a Toyota Techstream tool, you really can't tell if the other functions are working when on/off is now.

Right but after i get it on, everything works great. I used it from Chicago to St. Louis and back this past weekend to keep pace with traffic.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

bassmannate · 08-09-2016, 10:00 PM

Well, I think I figured out what the problem is. I went ahead and pulled the ECM plug back out and checked it out. On closer inspection, the wire that came with the kit does not have the little rubber piece that goes directly behind the pin. This piece not only looks like it seals out moisture, but also locks the pin more securely than the pin lock mechanism does on it's own.

This would explain why it worked flawlessly right after I finished the install because the pin had just been seated. Add on top of that that I didn't have any zip ties for a couple days to re-secure the ECM wires and it was a recipe for that pin to vibrate out slightly.

Anyone know what that piece is called? If I can get a picture, I'll post it to show what I'm talking about. Where would I find these?

Edit: I found a picture. It's the blue piece right behind the pin on the yellow wire.

bad · 03-03-2017, 07:44 PM

I was looking at this pdf. Looking at the picture of the cruise stalk on page 2, does anyone know if that one wire with the brown connector is actually used?

NYC-SE · 05-09-2017, 12:57 PM

Thank you for that very well documented step by step video. I'm sure it will help out others in the future.

08-06-2016, 07:38 AM	#98
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,450	The on/off is just a switch to ground. I would check all of your connection points to make sure it isn't an intermittent connection. If the stalk is one of the Chinese clones, it could be a bad switch within it as well. I do still sell the indicator modules. __________________

08-09-2016, 10:00 PM	#106
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Well, I think I figured out what the problem is. I went ahead and pulled the ECM plug back out and checked it out. On closer inspection, the wire that came with the kit does not have the little rubber piece that goes directly behind the pin. This piece not only looks like it seals out moisture, but also locks the pin more securely than the pin lock mechanism does on it's own. This would explain why it worked flawlessly right after I finished the install because the pin had just been seated. Add on top of that that I didn't have any zip ties for a couple days to re-secure the ECM wires and it was a recipe for that pin to vibrate out slightly. Anyone know what that piece is called? If I can get a picture, I'll post it to show what I'm talking about. Where would I find these? Edit: I found a picture. It's the blue piece right behind the pin on the yellow wire. Last edited by bassmannate; 08-09-2016 at 10:11 PM.

03-03-2017, 07:44 PM	#107
bad Winterizing Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 157	I was looking at this pdf. Looking at the picture of the cruise stalk on page 2, does anyone know if that one wire with the brown connector is actually used? __________________ 33.7 mpg in PA

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07-24-2016, 07:09 PM	#92
Tomsyaris I've made a post! Drives: 2010 yaris sedan Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Ontario Posts: 1	Hi Scott I Sent a pm . Thanks

07-25-2016, 07:07 PM	#93
David C Drives: White '07 3dr LB Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Montreal Posts: 480	Hi Scott, if I was to use a switch and LED to do a basic setup, could you pinpoint the essential wires ? Would a lighted 4 way switch work as a CC stalk and on/off indicator or do the CC indicator module would still be needed to act as a smart relay ? I have a '07 3dr LB, Canada. PM me the details if possible. Thanks

07-28-2016, 09:40 PM	#94
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Just used your guide to install a stalk and wiring. Worked great! The only thing I ran into was that I read the part about the indicator as "Yes: You'll need the indicator kit" or "No: You won't need the indicator kit" so I was a little disappointed when no light came on in the cluster but so happy to have cruise control on this car! Might have to get the indicator kit sometime just to have it in there.

08-05-2016, 04:39 PM	#95
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Well, we're on our first road trip with the cruise control and it hasn't been completely smooth. The on/off button doesn't seem to work reliably the first time after starting the car. After you get it to come on the first time, it works great. Is this just a problem with the switch/stalk i got? Is the control just a resistor ladder and could i just install a momentary switch with a resistor across the leads? Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

08-06-2016, 07:01 AM	#97
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Amazon. I should have contacted you first but was trying to be sure to get it in before this trip and it was prime shipping. I've already contacted the seller to see if i can get a replacement for just the stalk since i don't want to pull all the wire out. The good news is that if the schematics I've seen are correct, the on/off button is just a short to ground with no resistor. Worst case scenario, i mount a momentary switch to the dash and connect it across the leads coming from the back if the steering wheel. By the way, are you still selling the indicator modules? Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

08-06-2016, 08:08 AM	#99
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Yeah, it might just be a bad switch internally. The rest of the functions work fine. Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

08-09-2016, 01:39 PM	#100
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

05-09-2017, 12:57 PM	#108
NYC-SE Drives: 2014 Yaris SE Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: NYC Posts: 1,082	Thank you for that very well documented step by step video. I'm sure it will help out others in the future.