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Old 03-28-2010, 08:53 PM   #11
Alien Mantis
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Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talnlnky View Post
there is this huge misconception of if an amplifier will have "enough power" for x, y, or z sub. GET THAT concept out of your head. 10watts of RMS is enough for a sub to be heard at a decent volume (unless you have a sub with a sensitivity below 80dB @ 1w/1m).
Nobody has killed a 1000watt sub by only giving it 500rms, 250rms, or even 25rms. Stores like to tell customers that buying too small of an amp is dangerous... it is not.

You contradict what many manufacturers are recommending to consumers.

I read plenty of information from the likes of Alpine, JL, Pioneer, etc... that claim you are just flat out WRONG.

You CAN underpower a sub.
Whether or not it will damage it... I don't know.

A sub is designed for a certain "power-range".
If you give it too much power, it can smoke it.
If you give it too little power, you won't have any performance/response out of it.
High power subs NEED power to push them, and keep them tight, especially at higher volumes.
If we could use a 50watt amp on our pair of Alpine Type-X 12" subs, EVERYONE would be doing it!
Who wants to spend $400 on a 1,500watt RMS amp if I can push my sub setup with 50watts ?!?!?

Subs like the JL W7 and Alpine Type-X REQUIRE lots of power to push them, and keep the response clean and tight, especially at higher volume levels. Nobody buys a JL W7 to play SOFTLY.
People spend big bucks on this stuff because they want people to hear them coming down the street.
PERIOD.

My Alpine Type-R 10" sub has a recommended power range of 200-500watts RMS. And 200 watts would be the bare MINIMUM. It probably sounds pretty weak with only 200watts trying to push it.
( and most likely, not as tight sounding, either )

Putting 50watts on a JL W7 probably wouldn't even make the cone move.

Subs that have high efficiency ratings can play louder with LESS power, but they still need SOME power.
Subs, ( especially GOOD subs ), have a higher power rating, and a lower efficiency rating because they are made for high power.
They NEED high power.

SQcomp is right though, all systems must have all the gains set correctly.
You cannot use an amp gain knob as a "volume" knob.
And all your components must MATCH each other.
Don't buy a 2,000watt RMS sub, and put a 400watt amp on it.
Don't buy a 500watt RMS max sub, and hook it to a 1,500 watt RMS amp.
You are just wasting money.

You CAN run a larger amp on a weaker sub, you just need to turn the gain down on the amp.
The question is, WHY would you do this?

My sub is rated at 500watts RMS max, and I have it hooked to an amp that puts out 400watts RMS.
My gain is set around the 10 o`clock position, my preamp outs are around 2.2v.
My sub sounds very nice, and my sub and amp run cool.
My amp barely gets warm, even after blasting it for an hour straight.
( my sub amp has a 2ohm load on it, at 4ohm load... it never even got warm. )

Maybe I am totally wrong, but I read articles and specs, and I see people with opinions that contradict what I read sometimes.
I know you guys have lots of experience, and I am not challenging your experience. I am just confused by what you just said about a 10 watt amp powering a 12" subwoofer.

I NEVER heard of anything like that.

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