greddy turbo kit

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Oh man, I didn't realize it was automatic. I feel your pain lol... Shifts are TERRIBLE with a turbo on an automatic that isn't factory. Honestly, I think putting in / changing the housing to get a higher CFM is only going to make the current problem worse. I don't know what the Echo is like, but I know with the Yaris I really have to let off the throttle and help the trans shift. And past 4-4.5k RPMs forget it lol.

As for forcing open loop... I did some research that I'll dig up and show you. However none of it was very promising and I quickly gave up when I saw how easy it was to tune in open loop. Your other option is an O2 skew - weren't you doing that?

Ok, here were the ways to enter open loop:

1. TPS > 75%
2. Cold start until water temp > ? (Can't find the exact temperature)
3. DFCO

One thought I also had:

Oh and also - I was reading the service manual and noticed the AFR sensor heater operates between .9 and 10 Amps. A code is thrown if the current drops below .8A. Could it be possible to greatly limit the current that reaches the heater? My thought is that maybe, just maybe, we could limit its performance enough to prevent the AFR sensor from functioning correctly, thus putting the car in open loop.

Unfortunately you can't do much with option 1 because TPS directly affects fuel injection so you'll be flooding the engine by manipulating it at < 75%. Option 2 really needs to be researched more because it's the best bet. Option 3 is basically equal to pulling the AFR plug.

The first idea that comes to mind for me is to create a circuit. Basically you would monitor tps and as soon as the tps is reached where boost begins building, have a switch throw automatically to drop water temp to the point of throwing open loop. I'm not sure how you would build such a circuit, but I'm pretty sure it's theoretically possible.

That's enough rambling for one day.