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#15 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Apparently since I'm a ZPI hater (not really) you might not want to try this little trick I learned from my SRT-4 days...
Toto- I believe I know why you're going to see a code if you just install on a straight pipe. Read on... When I replaced my o2 pipe and my downpipe, we had two o2 sensors. One on the o2 pipe itself and one in the "cat" area. I decided to run a straight downpipe with a cutout. I understood that the computers would throw a code if the o2 sensors didn't detect a certain temperature difference between the two sensors. What I did was to buy a spark plug non-fouler, bore the inside out a little bit with a 1/2" drill bit. Why? Well, go ahead and try to screw in an o2 sensor to an 18mm non-fouler without boring the inside top out a little bit, you'll understand...the sensor just doesn't fit. When you take a bit of material out of it it will screw right on. After you bore that non-fouler out and fit it onto the o2 sensor, simply screw the non-fouler into the downstream sensor bung. This backs the sensor off just enough to have it read a lower temperature like you'd have with a cat...like you're supposed to. It is my belief that when you look at a catalitic converter versus a straight pipe, you should notice that the o2 sensor dosn't go straight into the pipe's exaust stream as much as it would with a straight pipe. With my limited smarts on vehicle engines, I believe the temperature issue is why you'd see a code. Now, I can find the how to for the SRT but it is really as simple as i've described it. I don't know the specific size of the stock o2 sensor on our Yaris. Sice I'm NOT going to be messing with the engine of mine...I leave this up to you guys. On the old car, I NEVER threw a code with this little DIY mod in the year and a half I used it. Thoughts?
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“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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