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Old 11-30-2009, 04:00 AM   #1
Cosmonaut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guyver408 View Post
Good thread folks - please help clarify a few points. For reference, I have a 2009 Yaris hatchback w/no modifications & standard tires.

I purchased a scissor jack (15" fully extended) since the OEM one seems flimsy.

The front Jack point shown in the manual & in this thread is unreachable & I dont see how anyone can reach it esp on a freeway with a flat. The rear jack point I could not even clear the tires off the ground at full 15" extension.

I'd like to try the side rails everyone is speaking of (for service & even flat tire repair). Can someone take a photo or show in diagram approximate location. The seams folks are speaking about seem very flimsy & I'm concerned are not strong enough (I have a hockey puck ready to go).

I've found alternate frame locations, but am concerned they may not be strong enough.

Has anyone tried the OEM jack on the rear & do their tires clear the floor?
i had the same problem using the rear jack point. the tires dont clear. i never found the front point though. have not yet tried the OEM jack though.
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Old 11-30-2009, 01:42 AM   #2
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OK, just found attached thread w/photos

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ht=jack&page=3

any idea why Yaris manual does not show these points?????
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Old 10-25-2008, 02:08 AM   #3
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Here's another suggestion guys: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:31 PM   #4
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The rear one is off center. When you jack it from that point the right is about two inches higher than the left.

For rotating tires, if you jack it by the side rail a little forward of center, you can get the front and rear of that side off the ground at the same time. I use a slit hockey puck on my floor jack and a pair of jack stands.
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Old 09-14-2009, 01:34 PM   #5
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too bad you guys are too far I just trow a bag full of hockey puck last week because they where very dry!!! too dangerous to play hockey but would have been perfect for jacking the car up!
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:51 AM   #6
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The OEM jack is only for lifting from the sides, one wheel at a time. The front and rear jack points are for lifting the car with a floor jack. Because of the position of the rear point, a 20" lift jack is required to get the rear tires off of the ground. The front lift point is more than 30" under the car, so an extended reach jack is required to lift from that point, unless you put it on ramps first to give the necessary clearance to be able to pump the jack.
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Old 11-30-2009, 11:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The front lift point is more than 30" under the car, so an extended reach jack is required to lift from that point, unless you put it on ramps first to give the necessary clearance to be able to pump the jack.
I agree. The front jack point is hard to lift even with a small 2 ton tack.
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:32 PM   #8
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Any idea why the manual does not show how to use the OEM jack with the side lift points? Did I miss something?
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:16 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by guyver408 View Post
Any idea why the manual does not show how to use the OEM jack with the side lift points? Did I miss something?
Look at the section called "If you have a flat tire."
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Old 11-30-2009, 10:40 PM   #10
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Whoops - I guess I should read the entire manual. That's embarrassing!

I think I'm beginning to rely more on this fantastic forum than my own brain.
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:57 PM   #11
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So, who makes a good floor jack with enough lift but is still easy on the wallet?

Thanks,
Jon
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:48 PM   #12
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So, who makes a good floor jack with enough lift but is still easy on the wallet?

Thanks,
Jon
I like Torin and Arcan jacks for reasonably priced ($150-$250 range) jacks with good reputations. Sears carries a few Craftsman models that would work, but if you read the reviews on them, they seem to very problematic.
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:09 PM   #13
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Damn wish I had checked this thread this morning. I just rotated my tires and in the process put a giant hole in the frame where one of those big rubber tabs used to be . The plus side is that the tab fits snugly on the contact point of the floor jack for future use, so it hasn't gone to waste.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
I like Torin and Arcan jacks for reasonably priced ($150-$250 range) jacks with good reputations. Sears carries a few Craftsman models that would work, but if you read the reviews on them, they seem to very problematic.
You can get a 2.5 ton Duralast at AutoZone for only $50. Been using one with 2-ton stands for 7 months and still no problems.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:50 PM   #14
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Is the Duralast stand "Made in China"?
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:30 AM   #15
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Duralast

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBack View Post
Damn wish I had checked this thread this morning. I just rotated my tires and in the process put a giant hole in the frame where one of those big rubber tabs used to be . The plus side is that the tab fits snugly on the contact point of the floor jack for future use, so it hasn't gone to waste.



You can get a 2.5 ton Duralast at AutoZone for only $50. Been using one with 2-ton stands for 7 months and still no problems.
x2 on that Duralast I have one also and been using it for 3 years now with no issues. You should always have a couple of floor jacks and atleast 4 jackstands. "THE MORE THE MERRIER"
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:31 AM   #16
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EDIT* posted this in th wrong thread, i'll re post. Wow...thread necro...

I finally got around to modifying modifying hockey push with an angle grinder. I'm lowered so I cannot aces the front lift point.

I usually jack my car up about twice a month so the pinch welds are not adequate for that.

I now lift at the pinch welds using a puck and then place my jack stands under my control arms for the front (, close to the subframe , possible). For the rear I place the axle on jack stands this way there is no weight on the pinch welds.

Worked well this past weekend with no issues.
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