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Old 12-30-2008, 11:26 AM   #1
largeorangefont
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I'm pretty sure a 35 wet shot won't kill the car. He could probably do it with no extra tuning, but he needs to check it when it goes together to see if it is actually safe.

I don't see him needing fueling mods and all the extra crap with such a light shot. If the fuel pump can support the Blitz SC, the 35 shot should should be fine. I really think the best and simplest option would be to build the 35 shot setup with a single nozzle and get a feel for everything. I would consider a window switch to turn it on and off.

Last edited by largeorangefont; 12-30-2008 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 12-30-2008, 12:54 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by largeorangefont View Post
I'm pretty sure a 35 wet shot won't kill the car. He could probably do it with no extra tuning, but he needs to check it when it goes together to see if it is actually safe.

I don't see him needing fueling mods and all the extra crap with such a light shot. If the fuel pump can support the Blitz SC, the 35 shot should should be fine. I really think the best and simplest option would be to build the 35 shot setup with a single nozzle and get a feel for everything. I would consider a window switch to turn it on and off.
my fuel pump is supporting 10psi of nice cold air.. i'm sure even a 75shot wouldn't warrant a larger fuel pump on a wet setup..
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Old 12-30-2008, 01:08 PM   #3
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Interesting reading on this thread. Here are some useful nitrous facts that might be helpful. I ran 2 full 10-lb bottles through my yaris already with no adverse effects and have run literally hundereds of nitrous tests through the years on a variety of different applications (including 15 bottle through my stock 5.0L Mustang). Running the old 120-hp set up on my Yaris (stock exh man, down pipe and no ex, custom version of intake, CAI and lighweight Lucas Oil), we then added a 40-hp shot from a universal NOS EFI (single fogger) wet kit. The result was 162 wheel hp and 155 wheel ft-lb of torque. For definitons-wet kits combine fuel and nitrous into single (or multiple) fogger nozzle(s), regardless of where they are placed in the intake tract. Dry systems add nitrous only through the fogger nozzle(s) and provide the extra fuel through the injectors (usually by increasing fuel pressure by applying nitrous pressure on top of regulator). The multi-port fogger system on the intake was done more for a show car than for actual use since the nitrous and fuel jets would have to be so small. Running a single nozzle wet kit set up to provide 40-hp shot would be easy and provide no adverse effects provided the air/fuel is correct. In my testing, the stock jeting provided by NOS (and others) is usually rich. Keeping botle pressure (by heating) up to 900 psi cures this probelm, but the NOS system tends to err on the safe (rich side). Premium fuel is necessary, cooler plugs are also a good idea. Nitrous use is safe provided the following rules are considered-activate the nitorus no lower than 4000 rpm (lower activation speed will build torque but will also increase chance of detonation). Run good gas-don't put regular unleaded in your nitrous car. A can of octane booster is always a good idea-especially for track use or on hot days. Don't get greedy on hp level-40-hp shot is very fun, but as you go up in power relative to factory power output, chances of damage increase (this works with boost too!) Hope this helps.
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Old 12-30-2008, 01:11 PM   #4
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BTW-No additional fuel pump is necessary at this (162-hp) power level. We have run higher power outputs with turbo motors running the stock fuel pumps, so no pump upgrade is necessary. Adding an inline pump is not an option since the stock fuel system is returnless and pressure control is through pulse-wdith modulation of stock pump. Better option for more fuel is to increase capacity of stock pump (by replacement) or add Kenne Bell boost-a-pump.
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