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Old 03-13-2009, 02:42 PM   #1
CASTREX
Who said Yaris was slow?
 
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Drives: Yaris T-Sport 2008
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Costa Rica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spades View Post
i differ with alot of peoples views on cat delete. I say either keep it, get a higher flow cat, or get the right resister to pop in line of your secondary o2 sensor...

its why alot of cat delete aftermarket exhausts cause check engine lights...the nitto one will without a o2 sensor fooler.

either way, without that o2 sensor reading right, you will most likely loose power because most car ECU's go into limp mode when the secondary o2 shows a catalist efficiency code...kiss fuel milage and HP goodbye,lol.

i kept my stock cat, because there is no need to straight pipe a engine that doesnt even put 100hp to the wheels...why fight with CEL's and local DEQ and law enforcement for such minimal gains is the way I look at it.



anyway, exhaust, intake, pullys, mounts, suspension goodies, ripping every ounce of weight off the car you can will help...but, keep in mind, you have a car that will most likely weigh 2500lbs with you in it, that will only make 115 or so horsepower at the crank with bolt ons, and a sluggish automatic transmission to top it off.

lets face it, if you want one of these things to be anywhere near almost quick, you will need to toss boost at it. you will quickly spend over $1000us if you are buying name brand parts in bolt ons alone...why not save that money and wait for a good turbo kit to come out that should be in the $2k range and will give you way more get up and go than intake,exhaust,pullys, and suspension mods.

OK, you got a few things right and a few things wrong.

First.... The catalist efficiency code won't put the car into limp mode.

The sensor behind the cat is not used by the car's ECU to modified the running parameters. It only monitors the function of the CAT converter.

The sensor on the header on the other hand would throw the car into limp mode if removed. You don't want to mess around with that one.

On his car, getting rid of the CEL will cost him $5 in parts.... No resistors needed. Just an spark plug non fouler... or a custom made spacer.
I have a car just like his... I know what I'm talking about.

Deleting the cat would obviously not be a good idea if there actually is a local regulation against it.

Yes, removing the Cat on this car will give only a small improvement... But if he is doing a custom exhaust... it will be a free mod... as he will only need a few more inches of pipe.
So a small gain for almost free... is better than no mod at all...

The Only way his car is going to weight 2,500lbs with him inside would be if he weights close to 500lbs as his car is just above 2,000lbs


His car is a model 2001... how much more years would he need to wait for a Turbo Kit to be availabe?
Actually there is one available... the TRD turbo kit. Don't know how much it will cost on his country... but over here the kit was sold for $5,000 on the dealer to provide a total of 145hp at the fly wheel. That's a 35 hp gain from stock.
So $1,000 for 10hp does not sound that bad to me.

He can go the custom route of course... if he has the resources and skills...

Finally... he has a really nice car right there...

If it is actually an RS vitz...
is Lighter than the US Yar
Has 4 wheel disc brakes
Traction control
ABS
Factory mild sport tuned suspension...


Plus the Yaris down here south of the border is actually an expensive car...
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:49 PM   #2
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Old 03-14-2009, 10:13 PM   #3
Spades
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CASTREX View Post
OK, you got a few things right and a few things wrong.

First.... The catalist efficiency code won't put the car into limp mode.

The sensor behind the cat is not used by the car's ECU to modified the running parameters. It only monitors the function of the CAT converter.

The sensor on the header on the other hand would throw the car into limp mode if removed. You don't want to mess around with that one.

On his car, getting rid of the CEL will cost him $5 in parts.... No resistors needed. Just an spark plug non fouler... or a custom made spacer.
I have a car just like his... I know what I'm talking about.

Deleting the cat would obviously not be a good idea if there actually is a local regulation against it.

Yes, removing the Cat on this car will give only a small improvement... But if he is doing a custom exhaust... it will be a free mod... as he will only need a few more inches of pipe.
So a small gain for almost free... is better than no mod at all...

The Only way his car is going to weight 2,500lbs with him inside would be if he weights close to 500lbs as his car is just above 2,000lbs


His car is a model 2001... how much more years would he need to wait for a Turbo Kit to be availabe?
Actually there is one available... the TRD turbo kit. Don't know how much it will cost on his country... but over here the kit was sold for $5,000 on the dealer to provide a total of 145hp at the fly wheel. That's a 35 hp gain from stock.
So $1,000 for 10hp does not sound that bad to me.

He can go the custom route of course... if he has the resources and skills...

Finally... he has a really nice car right there...

If it is actually an RS vitz...
is Lighter than the US Yar
Has 4 wheel disc brakes
Traction control
ABS
Factory mild sport tuned suspension...


Plus the Yaris down here south of the border is actually an expensive car...


i said most cars will go into limp mode. you ever listened to cars run when the back o2 sensor craps out or someone straight pipes their cat? i have seen several ricer cars come into my shop with this "mod" and they run like crap. i havent straight piped a yaris, so i dont know if the yaris will or not. either way, there are ways to trick the o2 sensor, and the resistor is the better way to do it IMO. sorry if i dont go with the autozone method when it comes to tuning. i still say keep the cat. the car was designed to run with a cat, and unless you are making over 150hp, the gain is minimal even if you fool the sensor.

according to the curb weights i have found for 01 vitz liftbacks, their advertised DRY curb weight is 2000-2500lbs, with the higher trim level models being the heavier ones, so, with fuel, oil, and him in the car, i dont think 2500lbs is that far off.

and im sorry, but even if he doesnt wait for a kit to come out, a custom turbo set up is better bang for buck than all motor mods.


and i never said he didnt have a nice car, i just implied that these cars are not fast, and that it takes alot to even make them semi sporty...sorry if a 16 to 17 second quarter mile time doesnt make me wet my pants.
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:54 PM   #4
bieniman
 
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Drives: vitz rs 1500 2001
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Suriname South America
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CASTREX View Post
OK, you got a few things right and a few things wrong.

First.... The catalist efficiency code won't put the car into limp mode.

The sensor behind the cat is not used by the car's ECU to modified the running parameters. It only monitors the function of the CAT converter.

The sensor on the header on the other hand would throw the car into limp mode if removed. You don't want to mess around with that one.

On his car, getting rid of the CEL will cost him $5 in parts.... No resistors needed. Just an spark plug non fouler... or a custom made spacer.
I have a car just like his... I know what I'm talking about.

Deleting the cat would obviously not be a good idea if there actually is a local regulation against it.

Yes, removing the Cat on this car will give only a small improvement... But if he is doing a custom exhaust... it will be a free mod... as he will only need a few more inches of pipe.
So a small gain for almost free... is better than no mod at all...

The Only way his car is going to weight 2,500lbs with him inside would be if he weights close to 500lbs as his car is just above 2,000lbs


His car is a model 2001... how much more years would he need to wait for a Turbo Kit to be availabe?
Actually there is one available... the TRD turbo kit. Don't know how much it will cost on his country... but over here the kit was sold for $5,000 on the dealer to provide a total of 145hp at the fly wheel. That's a 35 hp gain from stock.
So $1,000 for 10hp does not sound that bad to me.

He can go the custom route of course... if he has the resources and skills...

Finally... he has a really nice car right there...

If it is actually an RS vitz...
is Lighter than the US Yar
Has 4 wheel disc brakes
Traction control
ABS
Factory mild sport tuned suspension...


Plus the Yaris down here south of the border is actually an expensive car...
Yes my car has all of the above, and I like it. It's small,lightweight and good gas mileage for the power I'm getting and of course I can park anywhere.

Only thing now is little bolt on mods to increase performance and looks little by little, and that's where the fun is.

So if you guys keep posting I can get to work, fro now I'm actually installing temp, press and volt gauges, Just the easy stuff first.

Thanks for the posts guys, keep'm comming.

I'll post my project progress soon.....
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