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#1 |
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Audio Junky
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firewall - though it is a bitch
wheel wells/strut area floor boards doors if you have more time and material... side panels (especially on the Liftback) and roof. the great thing about the yaris is that our roof is REALLY small, so the noise from it is nothing compared to say an SUV. I'm looking forward to adding 20sq ft to each door and sealing them up, 20more sq ft to the firewall. and then adding the window vent shades (which people claim cut down on wind noise) When cruising on a nice road I mainly only hear wind noise.... Car is alot quieter than stock (when I run stock PSI in the tires... i'm run 40+ now). |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris 5 door Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 70
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Quote:
For the wheel wells, what do you recommend? I know they make sprays you can apply, but there are so many it's very difficult to choose wisely when doing this for the first time with no experience. I have also read that people applied material to the hood of their cars. Is this effective in any way in reducing cabin noise? Sorry for bombarding you with questions! Thanks again. |
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#3 | |
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Audio Junky
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You pull up the carpet from the floor boards, and get up underneath the dash as much as possible.... Not going to lie... its a bitch on toyotas. for around the wheels... two things you can do, Buy sprays and spray it from the outside of the car (have to remove the wheels and jack up the car). On the inside you just lay down mat & foam if you have it too. |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Silver 2007 3Dr - Gryph Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 310
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On the 3-door liftback, the most 'bang for your buck' areas are in my experience:
The 'rear door' areas if you have the 3-door model. Basically the cavernous area behind the rear speakers, layer that down thick, and it's relatively easy to get that body panel off and back on again. The rear hatch, actually. Once the above was handled, that was the next major area of noise we found. Didn't seal it up, wasn't needed. Just use lots of small bits, and the rap test a LOT. Suddenly it'll have enough mass in the right places and no more rattle. Driver-side door. Rear wheel-wells on the inside, though this requires taking the rear seat and rear seat-belts out including the 3rd-passenger one, which isn't that easy. Passenger-side door. Make it more important than the rear wheel-wells on the inside if you usually have multiple people in the car. If you've done all this, you have everything except the headliner removed already. Drop it, do the roof while you're in there. All this so far (excluding the doors) is one day's work for 2 rank newbs to accomplish easilly. One door fully sealed and foamed to hell and back is 2 hours work or so for a single person, again assuming rank newb. Only thing I have left to do is yank the front seats out and the dashboard (I'll be doing that all at once since I need to run some in-dash stuff) and hit the firewall and front floorboards then, along with the passenger-side door.
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![]() Last edited by WolfWings; 03-19-2009 at 05:32 PM. Reason: Typo |
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris 5 door Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 70
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Quote:
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#6 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris 5 door Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 70
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Does anyone know how much clearance there is between the window ans the outer skin of the door? I found some closed cell foam online and it comes in various thicknesses. I was wondering how thick I can go without interfering with the window rolling down.
You can find the stuff here:http://www.closedcellfoams.com/polyethylene.html |
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