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Old 06-24-2009, 12:48 PM   #1
nickhjort
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Well I'm always free on weekends, so let me know what you think
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Old 06-24-2009, 05:03 PM   #2
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any sunday
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:10 PM   #3
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So I have an 08 LB 5mt. What will I need to make the cruise work. I want to go the homemade switch version. Do I need a certain voltage switch? The radio shack across the street has illuminated switches for 2.99 each. What resistors.

So I have to run a wire from the # 40 pin on the ecm to said switches correct? What about grounding etc.

I really want to have cruise this weekend. I have to start commuting 105 miles each way for work.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:07 PM   #4
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Brave I have an '08 LB MT too I would go the stalk method...you really need to know WTF you are doing to go the switch route, and there will be a lot of work involved. CTScott makes it sound easier than it is I'm sure, I run the electric grid for a living and am JUST following along with his LED and resistors method.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:17 PM   #5
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Im going the stalk switch route, however doing the wiring myself, like nickhjort, just need to find the time
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bravejus View Post
So I have an 08 LB 5mt. What will I need to make the cruise work. I want to go the homemade switch version. Do I need a certain voltage switch? The radio shack across the street has illuminated switches for 2.99 each. What resistors.

So I have to run a wire from the # 40 pin on the ecm to said switches correct? What about grounding etc.

I really want to have cruise this weekend. I have to start commuting 105 miles each way for work.
If you use illuminated switches, you will need to power the lights from a separate isolated circuit (such as the interior illumination circuit).


Take a look at my DIY Cruise Control Thread for the switch and resistor info:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ght=diy+cruise

Basically, any normally open, momentary switch will be fine. The switches are switching 12VDC at negligible current.


For an 07-08:

In the Steps mentioning Connector D3, the blue (CCS) and brown (ECC) wires are replaced with a wire from the red wire of the switches to CCS on the ECM (pin #40) and a wire from the black wire of the switches to a ground point (a bolt connecting a ring terminal to the bare metal of the dash support structure for example).

For MT on 07-08:

The clutch switch (Toyota part number: 88280-14030) is required. A wire is run from each of the two terminals of the switch to the terminals of the under hood fuse panel connector shown in nickhjort's picture below (either switch terminal to either connector terminal is fine).

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/CIMG6560.jpg


The 07-08 will not have a cruise control on indicator unless something like the module I developed is used. You can not simply use an illuminated switch, as the on/off switch is a momentary switch, which toggles the function on or off.
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:02 PM   #7
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Thanks CTScott that helps. So essentially I am running a wire from # 40 on ecm to the Positive on the switch setup. then ground out the switches.

There was a way to jump the clutch switch to see if the cruise works though correct? Also on the topic of clutch switch, I have to run wires from the switch to the pictured panel connector? Do I need as large of a wire with a fuse or would a regular wire work?
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:26 PM   #8
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Nevermind about the clutch switch figured it out, for the jumper.

But for running the wires for the stock switch you would connect to the blue wire for the positive then just run a ground correct?
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bravejus View Post
Nevermind about the clutch switch figured it out, for the jumper.

But for running the wires for the stock switch you would connect to the blue wire for the positive then just run a ground correct?
Correct.

If you do the clutch switch bypass for testing, just make absolutely sure you don't press the clutch pedal while in cruise mode.
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:36 AM   #10
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And I have cruise. Took me about three hours to do. But this was my first wiring/soldering experience. However my father has done a lot of it so he showed me how to solder. The hardest part was running the wires through the firewall.

Now just waiting on the clutch switch so it will be safer.

Thanks so much CTScott, nickhjort, and PK198105 for figuring all this out for us Yaris owners.

I was literally thinking of trading mine in for a newer more loaded one because i had no cruise. But now i don't need to.

Now I need to figure out if I can make a remote hatch release cause that is annoying.
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:22 AM   #11
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Before I buy a stalk from a stranger on eBay, I thought I'd try to buy from a stranger on YW. Is anyone still trying to get rid of their cruise stalk?
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Old 07-10-2009, 04:54 PM   #12
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So, I've poured through 80% of these pages. I have an 09 Sedan, automatic, base model. No power windows or locks. No cruise either.

I would be looking to add a stalk for the cruise, from what I've gathered all I should have to do is get the stalk and hook it up? Does anyone have pictures of adding a stalk to an 09 automatic?
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Old 07-10-2009, 04:59 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ecnal View Post
So, I've poured through 80% of these pages. I have an 09 Sedan, automatic, base model. No power windows or locks. No cruise either.

I would be looking to add a stalk for the cruise, from what I've gathered all I should have to do is get the stalk and hook it up? Does anyone have pictures of adding a stalk to an 09 automatic?
All you have to do on the '09 is add the stalk as the ECU is already wired for cruise. All that is required for the oem cruise is to buy the trim piece for your steering column that has the stalk hole and buy the stalk. then remove the steering column cover, plug in the stalk, and put the new cover on. If you don't want to foot the bill for new pieces, you can remove the cover and splice in switches to the factory wires as shown earlier in the this thread and in the diy.
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Old 07-11-2009, 07:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
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All that is required for the oem cruise is to buy the trim piece for your steering column that has the stalk hole

I dont know about the 08's or 09's, but on my 07 the steering column cover already had a notched spot so you could easily cut out the hole for the stalk.
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Old 07-14-2009, 01:53 PM   #15
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Good read!

Any updates on an 09 yaris MT? Any confirmations regarding the connector for the clutch switch?

Parts needed:

Clutch Switch: 88280-14030
Steering Cover: 4518452130b0
Stalk: 84632-34011

I already ordered the stalk on ebay for $29.99 shipped.

-Brent

Last edited by Brentorius; 07-27-2009 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Corrected part # Steering cover
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:32 PM   #16
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Wow ! thats a quick reply ! I'm trying that right now, I'll tell you if it works in 10 minutes...
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:15 PM   #17
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I soldered every connections real bad and there's still nothing happening... If my understanding is good all I have to do is get to >40 mph (~60km/h on my canadian car), press the on/off button (with black and red wires) and then press on set, is that it !? If it's a ground problem, can I use a ground wire somewhere to make sure that it's not my connection to the chassis that is bad!? thanks for you help !
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Old 07-20-2009, 02:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince87 View Post
I soldered every connections real bad and there's still nothing happening... If my understanding is good all I have to do is get to >40 mph (~60km/h on my canadian car), press the on/off button (with black and red wires) and then press on set, is that it !? If it's a ground problem, can I use a ground wire somewhere to make sure that it's not my connection to the chassis that is bad!? thanks for you help !
That is correct (it's actually >25 mph). Just to clarify, the on/off switch is the one before the resistor and the set switch is the one after the resistor.

By the way, I believe that you are the first Canadian trying this.

For a ground, The bolt that you posted the picture of is a great ground point. You can strip about an inch of insulation off of the wire, wrap the wire around the bolt (under the washer) and crank the bolt back down.
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