Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[sqcomp]

I've been ruminating on an enclosure idea I'll be looking at tomorrow. I'll fill you in...we may just have a great alternative for sub location...

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

I've been ruminating on an enclosure idea I'll be looking at tomorrow. I'll fill you in...we may just have a great alternative for sub location...

Sounds good, the only I can see in my future plans is a 2nd I6SW

D.

[why?]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

next meet I bet they are going to 3.1416 their pants! Jeje (in a good way, they are good friends)

Had to read that three times before I was sure you actually wrote it. So freakin awesome.

So I know y'all are sq guys, so i have a question, i had a old 10" sub putting out maybe 150 watts normally, i have stock everything and only on the really deep long stuff would the lights dim, the problem is the pressure was too much for me and it gave me headaches. Now I get headaches like crazy anyways, but I was wondering if there are any smaller subs that would still bring out the lows enough but not move the air too much. Something smaller with less power that would still be worth taking the time to install. I know there are both 8" and 6" subs out there, i don't know though if any are worth it.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by why?

Had to read that three times before I was sure you actually wrote it. So freakin awesome.

So I know y'all are sq guys, so i have a question, i had a old 10" sub putting out maybe 150 watts normally, i have stock everything and only on the really deep long stuff would the lights dim, the problem is the pressure was too much for me and it gave me headaches. Now I get headaches like crazy anyways, but I was wondering if there are any smaller subs that would still bring out the lows enough but not move the air too much. Something smaller with less power that would still be worth taking the time to install. I know there are both 8" and 6" subs out there, i don't know though if any are worth it.

More detail? box sf? amp? where is it located?

can't you just lower the gains?

D.

[why?]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

More detail? box sf? amp? where is it located?

can't you just lower the gains?

D.

i removed it completely a long time ago. It is just too big and old. Just asking to see if you know of any smaller high quality subs.

[packetrace]

Is your yaris really 4x4 :O

[sqcomp]

I was going to suggest the sub I'm using as a temp solution, but you said less intensity...




^Yes there's a gap. The slope is at 24dB versus the sub's 36dB.








^And yet another gap. The tweeters are at a 6dB slope.

[TOLMACH]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

I was going to suggest the sub I'm using as a temp solution, but you said less intensity...




^Yes there's a gap. The slope is at 24dB versus the sub's 36dB.








^And yet another gap. The tweeters are at a 6dB slope.

3.15 khz 1st order for tweeters seems crazily low.. there is also a good chance that you will burn them.. if you want to use the 6db slope my wild guess will be at least 6-6.5 khz (one octave higher)

why such a low (considering slope) crossover point in a 3 way system?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

3.15 khz 1st order for tweeters seems crazily low.. there is also a good chance that you will burn them..

Sqcomp's tweeters have a Frequency Range = Fs (580 Hz) – 40,000 Hz, +/- 3 dB

they won't burn...


D.

[TOLMACH]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

Sqcomp's tweeters have a Frequency Range = Fs (580 Hz) – 40,000 Hz, +/- 3 dB

they won't burn...


D.

which means you should be crossing your tweeters at at least 1800 Hz @12db slope .. the producer recommends 1800 hz @4 order

I also just learned that HA has passive networks (which look pretty awesome) and it seems that they cross the tweeter at around 3500 hz 12 db (5.6 mF capacitor used paired with some inductance)

http://store.12velectronics.com/prod...Crossover.html

my point is different anyways - just curious why such a low x-over point?

[sqcomp]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

which means you should be crossing your tweeters at at least 1800 Hz @12db slope .. the producer recommends 1800 hz @4 order

I also just learned that HA has passive networks (which look pretty awesome) and it seems that they cross the tweeter at around 3500 hz 12 db (5.6 mF capacitor used paired with some inductance)

http://store.12velectronics.com/prod...Crossover.html

my point is different anyways - just curious why such a low x-over point?

I'm now at 3.15 kHz at a 6dB on the right and a 36dB on the left tweeter. I'm playing with response, soundstage, and phasing. I wish it was as simple as just slapping a prefabbed passive crossover on a set of speakers. It's just not. I'm a pillar man, always have been. I'm trying to get the stage width SERIOUSLY wide without sacrificing the center image. There is ALWAYS a give and take.

Before anyone trys to rake me over the coals, I had Scott Buwalda riding in the Yaris on Monday while on our way to dinner. I showed him the crossover points for all the speakers. He didn't have any issue with 3.15kHz at a 6. If the right kicks it, I'll let everyone know and get Scott to re-work the guts of the tweeter (since it is an L1Pro SE and not a mainline production R2 tweeter).

[derickveliz2]

SQcomp, tell us a little bit about your new Tweeter install? aiming is very particular and clever...

D.

[sqcomp]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

SQcomp, tell us a little bit about your new Tweeter install? aiming is very particular and clever...

D.

Preface:

Next time I do this, I'll make these completely out of plastic. This bonding different materials aggravates me to no end because of the different properties between the different substrates. Blah blah blah...anyway...

The semi horn loading of these pillars seems to add some width and some definite height that I have only experienced with the pillar mounted setup like my last setup. Being much more on axis, I have a hell of an ability to play these tweeters lower as well as hear more definition from said tweeters versus my last pillar setup. Playing the tweeters lower at this particular location keeps the height way up versus being dragged down by the location of the mids in the kicks.

...that and I HAD to do something different that Derick after all...



It's all really an experiment. Think about the auditory response you get when you cup your hands near your ears. You can hear things differently. I'm simply playing around with the response of the tweeters by doing this.

I'm also burning time until I take on my next vehicle project...a 1989 Toyota MR2 with a "lightly modded" 3SGTE from a friend and engine builder in kiwiland...

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

The semi horn loading of these pillars seems to add some width and some definite height that I have only experienced with the pillar mounted setup like my last setup. Being much more on axis, I have a hell of an ability to play these tweeters lower as well as hear more definition from said tweeters versus my last pillar setup. Playing the tweeters lower at this particular location keeps the height way up versus being dragged down by the location of the mids in the kicks.

...that and I HAD to do something different that Derick after all...

Yes your tweeters can play very low like a champ.

I can tell you know what you are doing, and it's very clever aiming (your tweeter install) still don't see the Dash Mat? don't you get a bunch of reflections from the windshield? I guess you are using these in your favor to obtain a better width any way!


I did try at some point playing my tweeters low but didn't work for me, since my Mids are more set apart from each other than the tweeters

(remember I cut into the a-frame to fit the magnet) and have them almost flush and providing a location "as far forward and as far from each other" making the Mids play more like a point source [from 160Hz to 10kHz] my stage width benefits from that, and keeps a good height! about my nose or say a couple of inches above the speedometer cluster, that to me feels very natural.

I've been thinking about modifying the left tweeter aiming and position [similar to what I did with the Mids where from my point of view both drivers look the same], by cutting deep into the a-pillar so the tweeter sit as far left as possible, maybe combined with the spheres I had before treating diffractions with the soft curbs. Or some thing like that.

I would like you to do a few tests, (I all ready did) and tell me what you get:

1-Playing the track left, center, right mute the tweeters and tell me if your center image shifts slightly to one side,

2-Playing the track left, center, right mute the tweeters and lows, does your center image moves right or left a few inches?

3-Mute the tweeters and play Mids (L4se) all the way up "tweeter less"!




D.

[packetrace]

Have pics of your new tweeter install ? Like Derick says details about aiming ? I cam very interested since I'll do 2way+sub...!!

[_S7V7N_]

Nice work Sq !

[packetrace]

This is so awesome!!! Wish I had your telent

[derickveliz2]

BTW, using sqcomp photo I did an image trying to visualize a front stage, now imagine that this is an hologram and each artist it's playing live music! and you can feel and localize each individual's position in the stage.




D.