03-04-2010, 08:34 PM
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#11
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Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbergman27
Actually, *do* let the lawnmower/tractor bother you. It's a completely different application. - MTD (Olympic) is API SJ rated - no problem - unless the "proper" % of EP agents bother you.
On the topic of 10w30 vs 5w30... A 5w30 oil at 0F is thicker than a straight 30 wt at operating temperature. In fact, probably thicker than is optimal. - All oils are thicker when cold than at op temp. An oil with a improved VI may provide small gains in FE during warmup but are minimal at best.
Use what the manufacturer advises instead of doing all this armchair second guessing. - I will not sacrifice EP wear protection in the false hope of having my cat converter last 300K miles with "green" ILSAC gf4 spec oils.
A possible exception to that, which may have some slight advantages, might be substituting a 0w30 for 5w30, if the (reputable) oil manufacturer rates it to be a suitable replacement for 5w30. - Unless operating in the arctic circle, I find PAO base fluid show much higher engine wear and noise due to these fluids poor lubricity v. group I/II base fluids. I know I'm runnning M1 AFE 0w-30 now and I am not convinced of any benefit - my fuel mileage is much worse (-5mpg) on a 5 tank average than last winter's mean running a 5w-30 pennzoil conventional
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What else?
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