Voltage regulator TSA

[CTScott]

There have been a few threads lately about this issue, enough so to make me decide to pull Crashy's alternator apart. She had 26K miles before her demise and sat outside with her engine compartment exposed to the elements (of Upstate New York) for over a year before I bought her. So, every untreated metal surface on her is either rusty or oxidized.

Here's her alternator prior to removal:


Removed:


Regulator cover removed:


Regulator and Rectifier removed (The mounting screws were so rusted that I had a bear of a time removing most of them):


Regulator top and bottom:




Rectifier top and bottom:





So, the bottom line is that although Crashy's alternator was still functioning properly, there is significant rusting of fasteners and some terminals. I'd like to see a failing one to see the difference, but looking at the regulator and brush terminals, which are the most corroded parts, I would think that they are the failure mode. The regulator circuit board is fully potted, so it should be safe, provided that the terminals don't corrode enough at their entry points to allow moisture to enter.

Before I reassemble it, I am going to clean and protect all contacts with DeoxIT contact cleaner/protector and replace all of the rusted hardware with stainless steel.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...5S-6N-/200-230


If I had a failing one, I would disassemble it and try the same. If that didn't resolve the issue I would either pick up a replacement regulator (27700-21050) from Toyota (for about $175) for 06-09, or pick up an aftermarket NipponDenso one (126600-0540) for ~$50.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/alter...Q5fAccessories

[Trevorwel]

The post below saved me about $270.

I purchased a new voltage regulator on e-bay (followed the link below), it cost me $50 plus $40 to get it installed and hay-presto all is good in Yaris land again.

The dealer had quoted $340 plus tax


Thanks CTScott!!!

Originally Posted by CTScott

There have been a few threads lately about this issue, enough so to make me decide to pull Crashy's alternator apart. She had 26K miles before her demise and sat outside with her engine compartment exposed to the elements (of Upstate New York) for over a year before I bought her. So, every untreated metal surface on her is either rusty or oxidized.

Here's her alternator prior to removal:


Removed:


Regulator cover removed:


Regulator and Rectifier removed (The mounting screws were so rusted that I had a bear of a time removing most of them):


Regulator top and bottom:




Rectifier top and bottom:





So, the bottom line is that although Crashy's alternator was still functioning properly, there is significant rusting of fasteners and some terminals. I'd like to see a failing one to see the difference, but looking at the regulator and brush terminals, which are the most corroded parts, I would think that they are the failure mode. The regulator circuit board is fully potted, so it should be safe, provided that the terminals don't corrode enough at their entry points to allow moisture to enter.

Before I reassemble it, I am going to clean and protect all contacts with DeoxIT contact cleaner/protector and replace all of the rusted hardware with stainless steel.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...5S-6N-/200-230


If I had a failing one, I would disassemble it and try the same. If that didn't resolve the issue I would either pick up a replacement regulator (27700-21050) from Toyota (for about $175) for 06-09, or pick up an aftermarket NipponDenso one (126600-0540) for ~$50.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/alter...Q5fAccessories