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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Scion FRS RS2, ‘21 Crosstrek Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chatham, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,729
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The Yaris wheel lug torque rating is only 75 lb/ft which is lower than other vehicles I've owned.
The lugs should be torqued in steps using a criss-cross pattern to max. 75 lb/ft. I've never seen a shop torque in steps. A grease monkey with an impact gun may have over torqued your wheels and distorted your once fine rotors. Ford Windstars were famous for this occuring. I'd be pissed! This is why is save money, time and hassle by doing most repairs and all maintenance myself in the driveway. Oh, I so miss having a garage.
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TRD Upgrades: 18" Wheels wrapped in 215/35/18 PZero's, Sportivo Shocks/Struts, Lowering Springs, Swaybar, Axle-Back Exhaust, Oil Cap, Rad Cap, Signage. Aftermarket Goodies: Piggies SS, K&N Drop-In, Blitz S/C, DC Header, NST Pulley) Toyota Options/Accessories: Sport Pedal Covers, Sport Shift Knob, Ipod Interface, Summer Mats, Winter Mats, Cruise Control, Auto-Dim Mirror, Echo steelies with winter boots.
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Join Date: May 2010
Location: georgia
Posts: 91
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
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Same here. Regular steel lug nuts always get torque-sticked. Aluminum wheels always get torque-wrenched w/ special mag sockets. Sleeved nuts get torque-wrenched.
While I'm at it, always check the balance [no extra charge] when doing rotations; takes less than 5 minutes but well worth my time to avoid the hated come-backs. |
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