PETERPOOP's Turbo Build Thread.

[PETERPOOP]

Progress so far...

Got the pan back on. Decided to go below the oil line. Installed the turbo manifold, turbo, and downpipe. The oil send/return line, and now working on the water line.

Tightened the bango fitting with this ghetto trick.



Got the manifold and turbo in place without removing the A/C line. We bolted the turbo to the manifold behind the engine, and then lifted it up and bolted it to the block. We didn't bolt it together first and then try and wedge it into place. It was easier to bolt it together while behind the engine.






Quick question. Getting ready to put on the water line to the turbo. I am going to get it from the throttle body coolant lines. Just wondering if it matters which direction it flows into the turbo? Not sure which is "in" and which is "out." Even with the throttle body lines, which is "in" and which is "out." Obviously I can't start up the car to see which way it flows from the engine. If anyone knows, thanks in advance.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

Quick question. Getting ready to put on the water line to the turbo. I am going to get it from the throttle body coolant lines. Just wondering if it matters which direction it flows into the turbo? Not sure which is "in" and which is "out." Even with the throttle body lines, which is "in" and which is "out." Obviously I can't start up the car to see which way it flows from the engine. If anyone knows, thanks in advance.

the cool water (inlet) should be on the lowest fitting of the turbo.

[Nexus1155]

Crush washers are said to only need 12 ftlbs of torque to seal, usually i see them require about 85ft lbs torque to never leak. You might be better off shaving the sides of a wrench, or making a crow foot deal by welding a closed end side of the wrench onto a socket so you can get a wrench in there in some way.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

Crush washers are said to only need 12 ftlbs of torque to seal, usually i see them require about 85ft lbs torque to never leak. You might be better off shaving the sides of a wrench, or making a crow foot deal by welding a closed end side of the wrench onto a socket so you can get a wrench in there in some way.

I definitely agree - they need way more torque than advertised. Without taking the turbo apart I got them pretty tight but they still leaked. It's easy to take apart too - the only thing holding it together is that c-ring thing I think it's called.

There wasn't room to fit a 17mm socket on it, right? I can't remember, but I do remember not using a socket...

[Nexus1155]

I'd take pics of the tools I made, but you shave down the edges of a wrench to fit it in there easier.

The crow foot is if you cut a box wrench in half and use the closed side and weld a socket on there so you can turn it with a ratcheting wrench. I don't know how to explain this better than that.

[rob323]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

I just had another idea as to the case of the backup on the return.

Everyone is thinking the return is too restrictive. Well has anyone considered there's a restriction in the PCV valve? If you had a build up of pressure in the crankcase, if the pressure isn't getting out the PCV valve there's only one other option, the drain line for the turbo.

Or as the cars get older, the dip sticks pop out.

This would be why most factory turbo cars have two breathers on the rocker cover, one with the pcv to the plenum, the other back to the intake before the turbo.