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#1 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,784
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris Liftback (Sprocket) Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: San Antonio, Texas!
Posts: 2,799
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__________________
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,784
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When we went to surface mount electronic in 1994 the freaking genius engineers degreed we could not add flux to the parts before soldering. There is flux inside a hollow core and they said that was specifically designed by engineers whose shit does not stink to be all that was required. We assemblers were agast and just added it anyways. When some of us were punished for that we came to the realization we could screw them over by doing what they told us to do. The quality of the work was so bad they recinded their edit in a month. That is the side of engineers you never hear about. Last edited by bronsin; 04-17-2011 at 10:45 AM. |
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 323
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I suppose what it boils down to is a assertion that a cold engines handle higher RPMs better than they handle higher torque, with respect to wear. My Yaris is A/T. But my Chevy Sprint ER is a 5 spd manual. When cold, I shift at about the same points as I do when warmed up, getting into 5th at about 45mph. It would be interesting to know for sure what strategy minimizes wear. -Steve |
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#5 |
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Modded Moderator
Drives: 07 Toyota Yaris, 71 Galaxie Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 3,670
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Wow two pages and no correct answer why the transmission is locked out of 4th. It has to do with emissions (the cats need to be at operating temperature to work properly) and the quickest way to get them up to temp is by running the engine at a higher RPM. If your not going over 45mph why are you so worried about not getting into 4th for that short of a commute? My car only takes a mile at 30mph to get up to operating temperature, even when we were in single digits. Stop and go, tires, conditions, winter gas and other habits have more effect than not being able to get into 4th at 45mph.
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#6 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,784
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Quote:
True probably that last part. But also it just bugs me the transmission will not shift into high gear sooner. How much better mpg would it get? Only one way to find out. Remember if it takes a mile to warm up and youre only driving six miles thats a pretty large fraction. I think putting a hot plate under the block for half and hour at 700 watts (about 7 cents at my rates for that time of day) might be more cost effective though. Wait a minute...thats already patented isnt it? Dont they call that a plug in hybrid?
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#7 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 323
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As I've said before, given the same power requirements of the driver, there is no fundamental reason to think that the engine would warm up any faster at high rpm/low torque than at low rpm/high torque. Same goes for the catalytic converter. In the latter case, more air-fuel is packed into each cylinder, but the total amount of air-fuel/sec (and exhaust gas) is going to be about the same. There may be other effects that make the higher rpm scenario advantageous. But I don't see any fundamental reason that it would be. -Steve |
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